Impact Wrench

[Boudreaux]

I read all the posts with great interest. Remember that the battery of the Impact Wrench you choose will have to remove ten highly torqued lugs the retighten those same lugs at the right torque.

I was hoping someone would mention the torque value on the lug nuts of the Ford E450.

[dustyww]

Originally Posted by GuanoJuano

Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless High-Torque 1/2" Sq. Drive Impact Wrench, Tool Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CA04RH4...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one. Works great. When I see anyone on the side of the road needing to change a tire I stop just so I can use it. I already had batteries from others.

From the perspective of an electrician and cabinet builder... I’ve tried ALL of them, to failure.
Makita, all things considered is my “go-to”. The batteries last a long time, the tools are strong and well-built. The cost is competitive and fair.
If you want to step up, in cost and get some extra quality and features, look at Festool.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Marmot

Never put lube of any kind on lug nuts

Agree, The tech folks at Tire Rack state: "Torque specifications are for dry threads only. The fastener threads should be free of oil, dirt, grit, corrosion, etc. It is important NOT to lubricate hardware threads or seats. The friction at which torque is measured against should come from the hardware seats. Lubricating hardware threads and seats alters the friction generated which will result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over-torqueing of the hardware."

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by Boudreaux

I was hoping someone would mention the torque value on the lug nuts of the Ford E450.

We can do that for you.

It should have 9/16"x 18 threads. Torque will be 140 ft/lbs. Torque then in 3 stages, like all at 50, then 90, and finally 140. If the lug nuts have an attached washer on them, they should spin free on the nut. If not, a small drop of oil between the washer and nut should free them up. Use the lug tightening sequence that's in your manual.

[t18skyguy]

I have an extra long Snap-On breaker bar that I use, and have a corded 120 volt Black and Decker that has never failed me. I'm thinking of a portable, but I want it to be a Bosch cause I have 2 of their humongous batteries already.

There's a guy on Youtube and his channel is called Project Farm. He does a really good job testing just about everything and has one on Impacts. Plus there are others on impacts also. I swear I live on youtube there's so much there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFZVZrs2KTA

Not sure those are 1/2 inch, but there's others

[Boudreaux]

I know just how you feel about U-Tube.

[bgelyhome]

I carry a 30 inch breaker bar, 3/8” Milwaukee Impact and a Digital Torque Adapter. I break the bolts loose with breaker bar, remove with Impact. Going back on, I use the Impact to install lug nuts then the breaker bar with Torque Adapter to set proper torque on the lug nuts. You don’t want to torque lug nut with a 1/2” impact that will just crank it down. My 1/2 “ Pinnacle lugs are torqued to 100 ft-lbs.

[Mach1tosh]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I carry a 60 volt Dewalt sawzall for cutting fireplace logs and a leaf blower to clean the campsite after I pull in.

I saw the 60 V sawzall and figured I could probably ditch my chain saw

[Kmo]

I run a Milwaukee impact I have 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 drives, I usually just take the 3/4 drive cause I know it will definitely get any stuck lugs off then use it to snug the bolts and torque wrench it from there also have the reversible socket where one side is one size flip it over and the other is another size, can’t remember the sizes or the name of this socket at the moment, a couple more cups of coffee and it will come to me.

[Peoples16127]

I like Ridgid, as long as you buy them from a licensed dealer (Home Depot) and register them on line, they have a lifetime guarantee. I have had mine 5 years, 3 batteries have been replaced, a 3/8 drill replaced and a 1/2" impact has been repaired.

[craigav]

A few thoughts to share related to the entire thread.

I highly recommend at least once a year to remove and retorque your lug nuts. This is about the only way to know if you are encountering a lug nut seizure situation.

From my experience an impact wrench is more likely to remove a seized lugnut vs a breaker bar, I have broken more studs with a breaker bar.

Certain vehicles use metals that are more likely to seize than other vehicles, for example a few years back I read about a class action lawsuit against Ford for lugnut issues where owners (and roadside assistance people) couldn't get the lugnuts off. Primarily in this case those lugnuts with chrome covers over the steel nuts.

If a lugnut is hard to remove, and then has resistance reinstalling it prior to it getting snugged up, then you really can't get a proper torque as each stud and nut has different and measurable resistance just due to the metal and threads. If you encounter a stud\lugnut like this then I recommend to clean the threads with a wire brush and use a few drops of oil on the threads and run the lugnut in and out several times until there is no more significant resistance and then wipe it clean and torque to the recommended torque. If it is really bad or you see damaged threads then I would suggest to replace the lugnuts (and the studs if they are very bad).

Threads that have been cleaned and oiled, even slightly oiled, need a little less torque on them when tightening, not more.

Certain wheels such as Alcoa wheels actually state to oil the stud threads (only 1 or 2 drops) in order to properly torque the wheels (perhaps because they are aluminum). https://www.alcoawheels.com/alcoawhe...&newsYear=2021

In any case, I wouldn't overdo any lubrication but I highly suggest not to let your lugnuts go too long without removing, inspecting, and retorquing as you don't want to find out on the side of the road that you can't remove them. This is especially true on something like my older class c where many owners may have lugnuts that have been in places for 7~10 years (we always replace tires way before 10 years old right? )

Keep the impact wrench torque setting low when reinstalling lugnuts and use your torque wrench for the final tightening sequence.

Regarding torque wrenches, most of mine are the click type, however with a dial needle type of torque wrench you can easily see if during the tightening that if the needle (torque) rises and lowers during the final tightening that you may be dealing with a stud\lugnut issue perhaps with the resistance of the seat of the lugnut in which case I would again, clean and lightly lube the stud and seat of the lugnut and then wipe it clean and then retorque it.

Another and last thought came to mind, after removing and reinstalling lugnuts, whether using a couple of drops of oil or not, it is a great idea to check the torque again after 20~50 miles and again after a couple hundred miles.

~CA

[Vicr]

The lug nut torque on a Ford F-53 chassis is 400 ft./lbs. A torque wrench at this level is $350 to $600 dollars. How many RV owners are going to spend this much coin on a torque wrench when once a year you can go to a truck tire center and have everything checked and the chassis lubed for a tick over $100.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Vicr

The lug nut torque on a Ford F-53 chassis is 400 ft./lbs. A torque wrench at this level is $350 to $600 dollars. How many RV owners are going to spend this much coin on a torque wrench when once a year you can go to a truck tire center and have everything checked and the chassis lubed for a tick over $100.

Just for discussion, I am not sure what is most common on a F53 (19.5" or 22.5" rims), however the 19.5" rims are to be torqued to 150 ft lbs and I thought the 22.5" rims were to be 450 ft lbs. I highly suggest that everyone driving an F53 check their rim size, and I certainly agree with Vicr that for that much torque (400+ ft lbs) hiring out the work would certainly be a great idea. ~CA

[t18skyguy]

Here's the Bosch I ordered from Amazon today. It's their latest model over 740 foot pounds and 1100 breakaway in reverse. I already have the batteries so it should handle most anything I got.

https://www.amazon.com/PROFACTOR-GDS...s%2C274&sr=8-2

[KWDAILYD]

I have an F350 SRW and the owners manual says 160 ft lbs for the lugnuts. I have all Milwaukee Fuel M18 tools at home so I bought the M18 1/2" drive impact. It is a little overkill and on the expensive side. It has 1400 off and 1000 on. Have to turn it down when installing and I use a long handle click torque wrench for the final torque. Haven't run into anything yet the Milwaukee won't break loose.

[Greg58]

Since the OP has a travel trailer he should be ok with a impact and breaker bar. The sockets and bar from harbor freight are ok for what he will be doing.

[gymracer]

Your deal with Discount Tire is not unusual. About every shop over torques them. I like to come home loosen them with a breaker bar or impact if it will and then torque to spec. Save you grief on the road. Plus I saw a truck that had them tightened so much when it hit a bad hole the lugs popped off and lost the wheel.

[JimHanus]

Originally Posted by AZMarine

After having to change a tire in the back country when it was also 115 deg outside, & having to say MANY choice words about Discount Tire & how hard the lug nuts were a friend who was with us told me about the 24V 1/2" drive Kobalt he had. I have since bought that & in time gave my son all my 18V Ryobi tools & replaced the ones I used the most with the 24V Kobalt ones.

Just an FYI: Discount Tire torques lug nuts to the vehicle manufacturers specs. If no spec is available, a generic spec based on the stud size is used (generally about 100 to 140lb-ft). The torque spec used is listed on the receipt, as well as the tire pressure used. As an example, my Tahoe are 140lb-ft. and are a real bear to remove. My 18ft. camper are only 90lb-ft.

[Irishwake55]

No matter what type of impact purchased,I would always carry a breaker bar to loosen stubborn wheel lugs,I also carry spare lug nuts.
I agree with Marmot ....
NEVER lube stud threads...
Put anti seize or grease on back of wheel on contact points of backing plate brake drum/rotor or hub to keep it from seizing wheel to hub

[curver900]

Originally Posted by gymracer

Your deal with Discount Tire is not unusual. About every shop over torques them. I like to come home loosen them with a breaker bar or impact if it will and then torque to spec. Save you grief on the road. Plus I saw a truck that had them tightened so much when it hit a bad hole the lugs popped off and lost the wheel.

my discount tire torques all the lug nuts manually with a torque wrench... never had an issue.