Insulated underbelly or not

[Ksinclair]

I have been trying to decide on insulated underbelly or not and what are the pros and cons on both. This may have been a topic before but I am new to the forum and in process of new trailer purchase. I don't winter camp but do live in northern hemisphere Canada. I hear that if major problems such as pipe leaks., electrical and even mice can happen and be expensive to remove underbelly....

[SouthCo]

On my camper, the insulated underbelly is part of the thermal package which includes a little extra insulation in the roof and slide floors as well. It should keep the camper warmer when it's cold out but also cooler when it's hot out. I think it's worth the cost. As you mentioned the only downside would be if you needed to access pipes or anything else it covers. I've not heard of it being expensive to remove. It's just some screws holding it to the frame.

[jloco]

Originally Posted by Ksinclair

I hear that if major problems such as pipe leaks., electrical and even mice can happen and be expensive to remove underbelly....

The enclosed underbelly (underbelly cover) is merely a piece of corrugated plastic attached to the frame. This helps keep the heat from the furnace ducts contained within the belly to prevent lines, tanks from freezing.
I've never removed the underbelly cover on mine, but it doesn't appear to be a big deal. For the nominal cost they charge, I would recommend it. Don't forget the enclosed underbelly is part of the thermal package. It also helps keep the rig cooler in the hot summer months

[eng45ine]

I ordered the thermal package with enclosed under belly, I thought it was worth the nominal cost.

[bansai]

Originally Posted by Ksinclair

I have been trying to decide on insulated underbelly or not and what are the pros and cons on both. This may have been a topic before but I am new to the forum and in process of new trailer purchase. I don't winter camp but do live in northern hemisphere Canada. I hear that if major problems such as pipe leaks., electrical and even mice can happen and be expensive to remove underbelly....

Removing the underbelly is free. It's just time consuming. If you only camp in weather that doesn't require you to use the heater or AC, it won't add any value. But - having less insulation might be the thing that makes you turn on that heater or AC sooner than you would have otherwise. The underbelly saves us propane and generator time so I wouldn't be without one.

Anyone that approaches '3 season' camping will benefit.

[DC8Captain]

I have the underbelly option too. One of the advantages is it will keep road grim from being thrown up and accumulating under the trailer.

[Atlee]

If I have the choice, I would always opt for the heated, enclosed underbelly. Gives some protection from a surprise snap cold spell while out camping, and does help keep the underbelly (tanks, etc) clean from road grime.

[01tundra]

We got it on our Hummingbird since we enjoy camping in the middle of winter.

Not sure how much insulating factor it provides, can't be much, but it does help keep the underside protected a little and we camped during temps of teens last winter with no problem at all keep ng the TT warm. We mostly used our portable electric heater when we had electrical hook-ups and set the propane furnace to 50F and it rarely ever cycled on. When it did turn on it would warm the TT back up quickly.

[RPreeb]

We bought our X213 off the lot, and it came with the enclosed underside. I didn't really know anything pro or con, but I don't have any issues with it. I di think that it will be easier to keep the underbelly clean, especially if you do much driving on unpaved roads like we do.

[Ssabc]

My step into the camper is pulling away in one spot, floor rot in the corner.

I plan to cut some of the floor out and replace that piece. Hopefully I can save the linoleum.

Might the underbelly and insulation be causing some wood rot because of humidity and condensation? Curious as to why these manufacturers don’t spend another $200 and use green treated lumber in the construction process!!

Tell me your thoughts, please. Do I need the underbelly?

[CAG]

Originally Posted by jloco

The enclosed underbelly (underbelly cover) is merely a piece of corrugated plastic attached to the frame. This helps keep the heat from the furnace ducts contained within the belly to prevent lines, tanks from freezing.
I've never removed the underbelly cover on mine, but it doesn't appear to be a big deal. For the nominal cost they charge, I would recommend it. Don't forget the enclosed underbelly is part of the thermal package. It also helps keep the rig cooler in the hot summer months

Not true in all cases and something the buyer should check. In the case of the Cyclone that I owned the underbelly was fully insulated and then covered with plastic. Heartland advertised the unit as able to stand temps to 0F. I found that it was fine to 10F but did not test it below that.

It is an issue if repairs need to be made to plumbing but the repair can be made, and the insulation replaced and the cover taped shut.

My current rig is not insulated and I do not like the cold floors when temps are in the 50s or below.

[Onyrlef]

Originally Posted by Ssabc

My step into the camper is pulling away in one spot, floor rot in the corner.

I plan to cut some of the floor out and replace that piece. Hopefully I can save the linoleum.

Might the underbelly and insulation be causing some wood rot because of humidity and condensation? Curious as to why these manufacturers don’t spend another $200 and use green treated lumber in the construction process!!

Tell me your thoughts, please. Do I need the underbelly?

While it's legal to use treated lumber for interior applications except where it can contact food prep. surfaces and a few other exceptions the problem is that unlike kiln dried lumber, treated lumber has a high moisture contact and as it dries over time there is significant shrinkage.

[muckinfuss]

Alternative: marine plywood in A-A surfaces. Marine is not waterproof, just higher quality veneer with waterproof glue and few if any edge gaps in veneer layers. Once cut to fit, apply oil based poly in three coats to side facing under and to all edges and install after sufficient cure time.
A bit more work than treated but much better results with a sharp saw blade and a pair of saw horses..

[Roosevelt008]

The "insulated" underbelly from Jayco is a joke. Ours was two pieces of insulation thrown on top of the coroplast and they just bounced around. Then when out gray tank leaked the insulation got soaking wet. I pulled all the insulation out...2 whole pieces and threw it in the trash. If it gets wet it will mold and my mildew.

[gunafulltime]

Originally Posted by Roosevelt008

The "insulated" underbelly from Jayco is a joke. Ours was two pieces of insulation thrown on top of the coroplast and they just bounced around. Then when out gray tank leaked the insulation got soaking wet. I pulled all the insulation out...2 whole pieces and threw it in the trash. If it gets wet it will mold and my mildew.

True enough. You do need to keep an eye on it. To check for moisture, I periodically put my hand into the pipe hole under the vanity and the hole under the shower drain. But there are other potential leak areas that I cannot reach. I also routinely check all of the faucet connections, including the shower. And I crawl under the trailer to look for any signs of water. The plastic tarp wrap has small weep holes and so does the underbelly. It's a good idea to look and feel around a few times a year. That's about all you can do. I have been thinking that I should pull the underbelly off a couple time a year to get inspect the tarp wrap for moisture and tears.

Overall, the insulation is pretty insignificant; it's just enough to say that it's there. The insulation is wrapped in a big 5mil tarp. I am not all that impressed with it, but I would rather have it than not. I do admit that the potential for unseen water damage does stay in the back mind. I like the plastic underbelly sheeting more than the tarped .5" insulation.

[Tuna1]

I had a water stain on interior floor at rear door,above the step mounts with slight rot.. I traced it to a water leak above door where they attached awning brace to roof truss and didn't seal lag bolts..I've had removed my corrugated underbelly twice (once completly) and there was never any condensation ..I'm in SE Kansas..So i would inspect above before tearing into underbelly..

[norty1]

I like the coroplast covering because it seems to keep water and road grit from splashing on the underside of the rig.

Every time I have had to access mine I was thankful that it was clean.

[66lincoln]

Originally Posted by jloco

The enclosed underbelly (underbelly cover) is merely a piece of corrugated plastic attached to the frame. This helps keep the heat from the furnace ducts contained within the belly to prevent lines, tanks from freezing.
I've never removed the underbelly cover on mine, but it doesn't appear to be a big deal. For the nominal cost they charge, I would recommend it. Don't forget the enclosed underbelly is part of the thermal package. It also helps keep the rig cooler in the hot summer months

In my 2022 212QBW with the thermal package, I ran some additional wiring underneath and under my corrugated plastic bottom was batt insulation (several inches worth) with the paper vapor barrier; just like a regular house.