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Old 09-05-2015, 06:48 AM   #21
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UPDATE:***I mis-read thermometer - was looking at Celcius.* Instead, is cooling the same at highest setting on both AC and Gas, but not very well.* Maybe 20 in freezer and 45 in fridge section.* I unplugged the thermistor wondering what effect that may have ?
Unplugging the thermistor should run the unit full out. If it gets better, replace it. I also saw a tip on YouTube that says you should put your thermistor on the last cooling fin over (the one that stays the warmest) to get your fridge to cool down lower.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:56 AM   #22
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Unplugging the thermistor should run the unit full out. If it gets better, replace it. I also saw a tip on YouTube that says you should put your thermistor on the last cooling fin over (the one that stays the warmest) to get your fridge to cool down lower.
It's all shut down now. I understand a new cooling unit may not be the way to go - due to cost. I'm wondering if anyone has had success with a rebuilt unit and the approx. cost ??
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Old 09-06-2015, 06:42 AM   #23
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Here are some example costs:

Norcold Cooling Unit Pricing

It's probably just me but I've lost track of your issue. Is the fridge now no longer cooling at all? If it's cooling but not enough, there are other things you can check like airflow and the fans. Before I'd go and replace the cooling unit, I'd try to get a better handle on what's really wrong with the unit. It might even make sense to have a pro look at it to diagnose the failing component. For $85, these guys will help you troubleshoot: RV Absorption Refrigerator Reconditioning Training Center
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Old 09-06-2015, 03:18 PM   #24
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Is this an Option ?

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Here are some example costs:

Norcold Cooling Unit Pricing

It's probably just me but I've lost track of your issue. Is the fridge now no longer cooling at all? If it's cooling but not enough, there are other things you can check like airflow and the fans. Before I'd go and replace the cooling unit, I'd try to get a better handle on what's really wrong with the unit. It might even make sense to have a pro look at it to diagnose the failing component. For $85, these guys will help you troubleshoot: RV Absorption Refrigerator Reconditioning Training Center
I am thinking about a whole new refrig. What about just buying a non RV regular type fridge (gas never needed) and fitting it into the old unit's slot? Not sure of the cubic feet nor how this would work? Has anyone else ever gone this route?
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Old 09-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #25
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If mine ever dies, I plan to purchase a residential fridge that will fit in the existing hole and power it with a 1KW inverter while moving.
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Old 09-06-2015, 04:56 PM   #26
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1 more thing to check. Using an infared thermometer. Turn the fridge on. Let it run at least overnight. Then remove the outside access panel. Use the thermometer and check the temps of the cooling coils-top and bottom. They should be close to the same. If they are drastically different, the cooling unit is shot
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:47 PM   #27
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It's all shut down now. I understand a new cooling unit may not be the way to go - due to cost. I'm wondering if anyone has had success with a rebuilt unit and the approx. cost ??
OLD ONE IS OUT!! No new one yet .... I am wondering if EITHER the outside vent or the Roof vent should remain "open" for the new "normal" fridge I'm going to get, or IF I should just block them up?
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:57 PM   #28
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FYI, these are a bit hard to find. I just ordered a Summit CP961 from Home Depot. Width and Depth will fit fine, and about a simple 3 inch cut from the top which even I could do.
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