Solar for trailer to boon dock

Bigdomino · 01-24-2019, 02:42 PM

Hi Trailer owners. I am wondering if any of you are using solar panels with your trailer? Mounted on roof or stand alone? Are you using them so you can have power while boon docking goes?

Did you do any changes concerning the battery? Change factory battery out for one or more more powerful units?

For your info I have a 2017 White Hawk 27Dsrl.

Thanks for your replies.

Steve

Racinforthefinish · 01-24-2019, 03:11 PM

There are many answers to your questions. Depends on what you need. I have two 100 watt solar panels mounted on my roof supplying power to two six volt Crown batteries. I also have a backup GoPower 120 watt suitcase model to use If I am ever parked in the shade too long. I run the regular appliances that run on 12 volt and run a cpap all night. I have a 400 watt inverter that I use to watch a bit of tv or a video at night and have never run out of power. If I use the furnace a lot I find it uses a lot of my batteries but again, no problem. Hope this will help you.

RogerR · 01-25-2019, 02:09 PM

I suggest you need to do two things:

Compute how much power you need over whatever time you plan to camp.

Use the search button above to look at solar (20 pages of posts)
Batteries, solar and batteries.

Super wide range of information from a ton of people.

redsnapper · 01-25-2019, 02:19 PM

Roof solar means punching holes in the roof.

A portable "suitcase" does not require holes in anything.

For sure......change out one 12v for two 6v golf cart batts (ie Trojan T105)

Just sayin

travelingjw · 01-25-2019, 04:03 PM

I have a 23' Whitehawk. I have a Renogy 100W portable system and it works for us. I put out the panel in the morning, move it a few times during the day if trees are blocking the sun, and have always been able to recharge the battery for the night. We do use minimum lighting, make sure that we keep water pump off when not in use, use hot water heater only when we know we are going to shower or wash dishes. DW wipes things down and then washes only once every day or two. We have a Solar group on this forum, lots of information for you.

Jc85 · 01-25-2019, 09:49 PM

Have a look on eBay for solar modules. There are a lot of options for higher wattage panels with a similar footprint. Think 160-170 watts for similar size to the standard 100w panel.

I'm planning to get a panel for our 154bh and will probably go with a module with bi facial cells and a clear back sheet. These generally have very high output for the front (200w) and can produce up to 25% more from reflectivity on the rear of the cell. They're meant to be mounted to white tpo roofs, which is exactly what trailers have.

bono · 01-26-2019, 06:11 AM

I have 4x160W panels, 400Ah lithium batteries, I don't go to hook up campgrounds. 400Ah is enough to survive 6-7 days without charge at all in save energy mode. In the summer when we don't conserve energy we use ca. 30% battery daily (microwave, electric kettle, hair dryer, etc.) But batteries are usually full by 1-2 pm.

Jc85 · 01-26-2019, 09:01 AM

Bono with a setup like that who needs hookups!

It's worth keeping in mind that if you're going to lithium batteries generally you can discharge them much deeper than a typical lead acid battery. Lead acid can go down to 60% or so before you should recharge and a lithium should be able to go under 10% without any negative effects. 1 lithium battery is easily comparable to 2 lead acid of similar size.

Even the boys out there running 2 x 6 volt (225ah) batts are still only comparable to 1 lithium. 225ah x 40% dod = 90ah vs. 100ah lithium x 85% dod = 85ah.

The main downsides to lithium are that they're much more expensive to begin with (though they should have a much longer lifespan if well taken care of) and you may need to get new converter as well unless you get lithiums that are a drop in replacement for lead acid type.

I think if you're careful with it you can do a lot with 150-200 watts of solar and 2 standard 75ah lead acid batteries.

Semix-Hex · 01-26-2019, 10:24 AM

You also really need to watch the temperature wherever you happen to be. Lithium does not charge well in really cold weather.

WeRJuliian · 01-26-2019, 11:38 AM

Roof-mount vs "free-standing" is an ongoing debate:

Roof mounted panels are more convenient, and can be larger, because you don't have to stow them for travel.. but don't work so well if you prefer to park in the shade. A portable panel can be placed out in a sunny patch.

Roof panels also tend to be mounted flat, which is not the most efficient position (a solar panel works best if the sun's rays are striking it at 90 degrees). A portable panel can be adjusted to face the sun directly, and easily moved throughout the day, as the sun's angle changes. This becomes more important, the further you are from the Equator.

A portable panel - and its associated cable - is yet another thing to get in the way, and to set up and take down, while a roof panel is already installed, and up on the roof, out of sight, without any trailing cables to trip over.

To keep them working efficiently, panels need to be kept clean. It's, obviously, easier to clean one that's at ground level.

A permanently mounted roof panel is more likely to get scratched or damaged by dust and debris while travelling, or in severe weather. (We've had lumps of tree go through skylights on our trailer, and our house, so I imagine a solar panel is just as vulnerable)

Portable panels tend to be smaller - thus, lower energy output, However, this might be offset by the fact that you can position them to operate more efficiently. (anyone have any actual figures on that?)

It's, ultimately, your call, but I would pick a portable panel - or more than one, if our energy needs increased. Whichever way you go, it's worth buying the best that you can afford.. there are some really cheap units out there, which are not up to the job.

We don't boondock, but I do have a small panel to use as a battery tickler, in Camp Backyard, if I don't plug in the house power.

Gizmopilot · 01-26-2019, 01:05 PM

As said there are many options - you will need to start with a power assessment and determine your power needs and start making decisions from there.

In my case I ordered my eagle with a residential refrigerator and starting from there made it a little easier as that comes with a nice inverter but only 1 plug by the stove and the refrigerator sharing it. (Pros and cons)

The new eagle converter supports lithium battery charging (good luck)

Since my eagle came solar prepped for upto 30amps - I’m about ready to purchase 6 renogy 160 watt flexible panels that can be siliconed to the roof so I don’t have to make any holes. They are also substantially lighter and thinner about 130lbs lighter for the equivalent in rigid panels. Since they are so thin they can’t be seen from the ground - this reduces issues with some park rules that I have to deal with and not seen reduces the probabililty of them being messed with as well as reduces the risk of them getting hit as they will be flush with the roof.

This has down sides - can’t adjust them to point into the sun to maximize their output - I’m compensating by putting more panels on the roof than I need (about 50% more). They also cost more with delivery (renogy has a sale currently) about $400 more vs the rigid 270 watts on sale but delivery is extra because of the size. They have a 5 year warranty vs 10 and it is more difficult to remove them if needed.

Good luck with your project!

WeRJuliian · 01-26-2019, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gizmopilot

- this reduces issues with some park rules that I have to deal with

There are park rules regarding solar panels?

Gizmopilot · 01-26-2019, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeRJuliian

There are park rules regarding solar panels?

Believe it or not where I keep it most of the time they want you to get permission/approval to install solar panels.

I actually had to pay $20 for a permit to change from an older camper to my new model - they had to make sure when it was parked it was within the proper property lines and clearances 3’ from the rear property line etc.

I could get around it by not installing them when the camper is there and that is what I will do, but if no one can see them it won’t come up as a discussion repeatedly either.

I could also pay for a permit and get permission,etc., but I would prefer going the low profile approach and stay off the radar so to speak.

A majority of the campers are permanent and are lived in during the summer season and everyone is a lease owner - so it has the equivalent of a home owners association.

It is very cost effective full hookups are $2200/year it is your site - 99 year lease that you can sell or put in you will. You can stay overnite March—>December

Chiggins · 01-28-2019, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gizmopilot

As said there are many options - you will need to start with a power assessment and determine your power needs and start making decisions from there.

In my case I ordered my eagle with a residential refrigerator and starting from there made it a little easier as that comes with a nice inverter but only 1 plug by the stove and the refrigerator sharing it. (Pros and cons)

The new eagle converter supports lithium battery charging (good luck)

Since my eagle came solar prepped for upto 30amps - I’m about ready to purchase 6 renogy 160 watt flexible panels that can be siliconed to the roof so I don’t have to make any holes. They are also substantially lighter and thinner about 130lbs lighter for the equivalent in rigid panels. Since they are so thin they can’t be seen from the ground - this reduces issues with some park rules that I have to deal with and not seen reduces the probabililty of them being messed with as well as reduces the risk of them getting hit as they will be flush with the roof.

This has down sides - can’t adjust them to point into the sun to maximize their output - I’m compensating by putting more panels on the roof than I need (about 50% more). They also cost more with delivery (renogy has a sale currently) about $400 more vs the rigid 270 watts on sale but delivery is extra because of the size. They have a 5 year warranty vs 10 and it is more difficult to remove them if needed.

Good luck with your project!

Question on this as you seem to have researched... Where I store my camper, keeping plugged in is a pain (I park in the grass so leaving a cable to possibly be hit by a mower is not a good idea). I am looking to just have enough to keep my battery maintained. Would one panel do this? Also could I do the 50 or 100W panel? Not really a "boon dock" kind of person. Just want to keep my battery from having to be replaced regularly due to being run down. I have a 2017 325bhqs with solar prep (Not exactly sure if that includes anything other than wiring). Would there need to be anything additionally added such as a charger since I have the prep and I am not really throwing a lot of Watts up there?

Johnny Lightning · 01-28-2019, 02:49 PM

What you really need is a solar powered battery tender. They're relatively cheap with a built-in tender. I think this is likely what you need: 021-1163 Just make sure your battery is fully charged when you hook it up, or so say the instructions, at least for my tender which isn't this brand.

smithmdsmith · 01-28-2019, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chiggins

Question on this as you seem to have researched... Where I store my camper, keeping plugged in is a pain (I park in the grass so leaving a cable to possibly be hit by a mower is not a good idea). I am looking to just have enough to keep my battery maintained. Would one panel do this? Also could I do the 50 or 100W panel? Not really a "boon dock" kind of person. Just want to keep my battery from having to be replaced regularly due to being run down. I have a 2017 325bhqs with solar prep (Not exactly sure if that includes anything other than wiring). Would there need to be anything additionally added such as a charger since I have the prep and I am not really throwing a lot of Watts up there?

If you don't boon dock and you don't need power while in storage, your best bet is probably a battery disconnect switch.

Make sure the battery is charged before you take your trailer to storage. Just flip the disconnect switch to off and your battery will be ready to go the next time you use your trailer. I've left my trailer with the batteries disconnected for months at a time with no issue. My only issue is if I forget to flip the switch when I drop off the trailer!

There is lots of information about these switches on the forum.

Chiggins · 01-28-2019, 05:25 PM

I get it... but unlike many I dont want all the power off. I want my detectors active... I also have a theft device that is extreme low draw unless camper is disturbed and it wakes up. Anyways looking into some very limited solar to keep these items from killing my battery which I know takes weeks but it's not good for the battery. Even without the draw it still shortens battery life not to be on some type of tender. If I didnt have the want for these devices to be active then I would just pull the battery and set inside on a tinder. Plus I like automatic so want something on the roof so I dont have to fold it up.

Johnny Lightning · 01-28-2019, 07:27 PM

Sorry, the above link was supposed to be to a solar battery tender at Battery Tender is the Most Trusted and Reliable Brand Since 1965. We Design, Manufacture, and Distribute Technologically Advanced Products that Meet the Ever Changing Needs of our Worldwide Customers. | Deltran Battery Tender. If you put the address in the address bar is should get you there.

Johnny Lightning · 01-28-2019, 07:29 PM

Apparently battery tender links don't work too good, but if you click on the above link it takes you to the site and click on chargers. I REALLY hate stuff that changes what I write.

Gizmopilot · 01-28-2019, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chiggins

I get it... but unlike many I dont want all the power off. I want my detectors active... I also have a theft device that is extreme low draw unless camper is disturbed and it wakes up. Anyways looking into some very limited solar to keep these items from killing my battery which I know takes weeks but it's not good for the battery. Even without the draw it still shortens battery life not to be on some type of tender. If I didnt have the want for these devices to be active then I would just pull the battery and set inside on a tinder. Plus I like automatic so want something on the roof so I dont have to fold it up.

You need to figure out your 24hour power draw.

My camper with out turning off the battery disconnect uses .8 amps per hour or about 10 watts per hour. So in 24 hours that is 240 watts.

Depending on where you will be and the time of year you would do the math to determine how much solar you need and how many days you want to run with out sun ie bad weather year round and will you every now and then clean off the panels, remove snow or bird crap.

My 2 battleborns would run my parasitic power draw for about 10 days with no solar, but could easily top off the batteries with just 3 hours of good sun. I’m installing 960 watts of solar.

Winter time probably wouldn’t work well as the batteries won’t charge if the temp is below 24f like it is now and the panels would be covered in snow repeatedly.

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