Water issues

[SandsRVGuy]

Hello All,
This is my first time posting so I’m going to do my best to describe my issues. First off we full time in a 2017 Jayco JayFlight 27BHS.

We have had lower water pressure issues for quite some time now. I have replaced pressure regulator at hose (camp ground has plenty of pressure) and cleaned out the aerators at the two sink faucets. I have also replaced the inline hose water filter we have. Replacing the water filter did help with the pressure at the toilet but not anywhere else. Water pressure is so bad we cannot use two sources at once.

Now with that all said I’m going to describe another issue to see is perhaps they are somehow related. We are strictly using city water hook up. However our fresh water tank fills up and overflows (out of tube hanging from trailer). I believe this only happens when we are running our hot water heater.

Any insight to any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Nolan

[JFlightRisk]

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

The check valve in the pump head is letting the city water pressure leak past, and filling the fresh water tank. Many times, running the pump for a while will fix that issue. A 2017 shouldn't need a pump replacement yet. Hive it a try, and let us know if the problem goes away.

[SandsRVGuy]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

The check valve in the pump head is letting the city water pressure leak past, and filling the fresh water tank. Many times, running the pump for a while will fix that issue. A 2017 shouldn't need a pump replacement yet. Hive it a try, and let us know if the problem goes away.

Thank you! Could this also be causing my low water pressure issue if it’s diverting (leaking) water to the fresh water tank ? I guess that would make sense?

[TWP723]

Originally Posted by SandsRVGuy

Thank you! Could this also be causing my low water pressure issue if it’s diverting (leaking) water to the fresh water tank ? I guess that would make sense?

It most definitely would.

[Jlbrumback]

Where is the fresh water tank in 1993 jayco located?

[norty1]

You need to locate the on board water pump. The check valve will be near the pump. Turn it on with city water off and follow the noise.

[SandsRVGuy]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

Welcome to the Forum from Western New York State!

The check valve in the pump head is letting the city water pressure leak past, and filling the fresh water tank. Many times, running the pump for a while will fix that issue. A 2017 shouldn't need a pump replacement yet. Hive it a try, and let us know if the problem goes away.

All right so I tried resetting the check valve by running the pump and this did not fix the issue. So for now I’m thinking instead of replacing the whole pump (since we full time and never use the fresh water tank) why not put a shut off valve pre-water pump or even post water pump to take care of this issue. Would anyone have a suggestion as to why to put it pre or post pump and or if this seems like a logical fix.

[Jagiven]

Either spot should work. I suspect if it is easy to put it in ether spot I would install it post pump. This would allow you to remove the pump at some point and diagnose the root issue and fix it, while still being able to use shore water.

[SandsRVGuy]

Ok so doing a shut off valve to the water pump does not seem like it will work. As far as I can tell all water coming into trailer has to run through the pump whether it is on or not. I only say this because as pictured the white hose with red stripe is water coming in. The white hose without stipe is water going out. That hose then splits and gives direct water to the kitchen faucet and god only knows where else haha. . So if I do a shut valve regardless of pre or post pump I feel it’s going to shut off all water to trailer if not at the very least the sink. So do I just take white hose with red stripe and hook it to white hose with no stripe and completely bypass the pump? Also if anyone can explain to me why there is a bypass valve on
the incoming side ? Thank you in advance.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by SandsRVGuy

Ok so doing a shut off valve to the water pump does not seem like it will work. As far as I can tell all water coming into trailer has to run through the pump whether it is on or not. I only say this because as pictured the white hose with red stripe is water coming in. The white hose without stipe is water going out. That hose then splits and gives direct water to the kitchen faucet and god only knows where else haha. . So if I do a shut valve regardless of pre or post pump I feel it’s going to shut off all water to trailer if not at the very least the sink. So do I just take white hose with red stripe and hook it to white hose with no stripe and completely bypass the pump? Also if anyone can explain to me why there is a bypass valve on
the incoming side ? Thank you in advance.

I would recommend contacting Jayco with your vin number and ask for the plumbing diagram. This will show you exactly how everything was plumbed up out of the factory. Attached is a generic plumbing diagram. The city water connection can be located anywhere on the cold water plumbing.

The pump is not used when connected to city water. If the pump is working correctly, it should work like a check valve.

Looking at your pictures: The short clear hose is your winterizing line for adding antifreeze. The white/red hose is the pickup from your FW tank. The solid white hose exits the pump supplies the TT with water when using the pump, this line normally is pressurized, ether when using the FW tank/pump or when connected to city water.

I suspect the city water connection is feed from one of the two blue pex lines. If you want to eliminate/isolate the pump just add a 1/4 turn valve between the Tee with the two blue pex lines and the pump.

[TCNashville]

If you can, trace the water line that comes from the tank. Install a shutoff valve on that line before it branches to anything else.

[SandsRVGuy]

Ok now that I’ve talked through it with y’all I realized I was thinking backwards. Lol. Yes only makes sense that the city water is coming from the blue line on the right side of the tee. It’s then going down and bleeding backwards through the pump (since check valve is obviously not working) and into the fresh water tank (via white whose with red line). So yes if I put a shut off valve on plain white hose it should solve my issue. All this also explains why water pressure is lowest at kitchen sink. Thank you all! I’ll hopefully have a chance to fix tomorrow and will report back.

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by SandsRVGuy

Ok now that I’ve talked through it with y’all I realized I was thinking backwards. Lol. Yes only makes sense that the city water is coming from the blue line on the right side of the tee. It’s then going down and bleeding backwards through the pump (since check valve is obviously not working) and into the fresh water tank (via white whose with red line). So yes if I put a shut off valve on plain white hose it should solve my issue. All this also explains why water pressure is lowest at kitchen sink. Thank you all! I’ll hopefully have a chance to fix tomorrow and will report back.

I had a similar problem with the city-hookup backflow leaking at the connection to the pump. Couldn’t get it stopped, so I put a check valve into the white outflow hose from the pump. I thought about installing a quarter-turn valve but this way I don’t have to remember to turn it when I use the pump. It’s always good to go. BTW, it stopped the leak!

[SandsRVGuy]

Ok so I put in a shut off valve and now have basically no pressure to kitchen sink but better pressure to everything else. Clog? I didn’t change anything and it doesn’t make a difference if the valve is open or closed.

[JFlightRisk]

Probably not easy, but I'd remove the supply lines to the sink faucet, and check flow into a bucket. If it's normal, there's an issue with the faucet itself. A bad cartridge, or debris stuck in it, since you've already checked the aerator. If it's still weak, there may be a kinked line to it.

[SandsRVGuy]

Originally Posted by JFlightRisk

Probably not easy, but I'd remove the supply lines to the sink faucet, and check flow into a bucket. If it's normal, there's an issue with the faucet itself. A bad cartridge, or debris stuck in it, since you've already checked the aerator. If it's still weak, there may be a kinked line to it.

Thank you for the quick reply. I have removed the aerator and cleaned it out as I know that can be an issue. I guess my next thing to do is disconnect the supply line from the braided hose and check flow there.

[Jagiven]

If you have a flexible braided line, you are lucky.

I too, suspect you have a clog in the faucet assembly. Could be construction debris, calcium build up, or a number of other issues.

[SandsRVGuy]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

If you have a flexible braided line, you are lucky.

I too, suspect you have a clog in the faucet assembly. Could be construction debris, calcium build up, or a number of other issues.

Yes the plastic blue feed line is threaded onto braided steel flex line coming from the faucet. Tomorrow I will disconnect and see how flow is from blue line before it goes into faucet line.

[kwalsh]

i would guess the faucet is bad/plugged when winterizing mine the bathroom faucet just stopped working but i was able to disconnect and winterize from the feed lines

when i get a chance i will pull out the faucet and either fix or replace

[kayakterp]

I have the same TT (but a 2016)
The only time this happened to me was when I “de-winterized” I left one of the valves turned. Can’t remember if it was at kitchen sink or hot water heater - middle valve (or both - lol) but turning one corrected it.
Good luck