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04-28-2021, 12:42 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,112
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Welding on the Andersen WDH mod
My Andersen hitch slipped a couple of times. I drilled the hole for the set screw and it still slipped. Andersen suggested I have it tack welded but I resisted that as I may want to switch trailers some day and would keep my Andersen.
So I came up with the simple mod of having a welder put small plates on the the A frame to keep the hitch from ever shifting again. But the hitch is removable without cutting it off. The plates are welded on but not the hitch brackets.
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Andersen WDH hitch, Renogy 100 AH Lithium &
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Prev. '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, gas 3.6 V6
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04-28-2021, 05:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Chillicothe
Posts: 511
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That is a very good solution to what I see is a weakness of the Anderson hitch. The chains are always trying to drag the brackets toward the tow vehicle. Jay.
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04-28-2021, 06:48 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 22,367
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Very good idea.
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Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56
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04-28-2021, 07:18 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,880
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Speaking of welding. I was thinking of having someone weld another cross member support that goes across the A Frame in the middle to help support the 2 group 24 batteries. Is there anything I need to be aware of. I was reading somewhere once (not sure) that someone welded on his A Frame and blew out all the electronics. I just wanted to put another bar across in the center of the battery frame to help support the weight of 2 batteries.
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04-28-2021, 09:55 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 22,367
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It should be safe to weld on the frame. I would disconnect the batteries and unplug from shore power as a precaution.
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Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56
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04-28-2021, 10:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,261
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There is nothing wrong with what you did, but the bracket welds are easily removed. The welds are only two inches long and only on the front surface. A grinder cuts them and cleans up the brackets and frame. I did it on two trailers, and the brackets still worked fine on a third trailer. Frankly, if you sell the trailer, the new owner is likely to want those plates removed also.
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04-29-2021, 10:30 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: kingston
Posts: 215
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I must be lucky. I torqued my brackets to specifications and tightend the set screw with out drilling . They haven't moved in 3years.
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05-08-2021, 03:25 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano
I must be lucky. I torqued my brackets to specifications and tightend the set screw with out drilling . They haven't moved in 3years.
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LOL, yeah. Either lucky or you have a reason to tighten the chains much.
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05-09-2021, 11:08 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: kingston
Posts: 215
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I adjust the chain nuts 8 or 9 thread count. That levels me out. If that isn't much of an adjustment at least someone got a good laugh I guess. Good luck to ya.
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05-09-2021, 11:21 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,261
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The thread count doesn't really tell much. You could simply move the bracket back a half inch and be at 4-5 threads. Or, your chain could be a link longer or shorter than others, and the thread count would be significantly different.
Originally, the barrel shape of the red spring material told you something, but then they changed the material size. Like many other hitch factors, the best way to tell is with a set of CAT scale weights.
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05-09-2021, 01:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: kingston
Posts: 215
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At any rate as I posted before the hitch works for me and the brackets haven't moved at all.
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05-09-2021, 04:29 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 778
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If you’re not a welder you can do the same thing with a block 1/2” steel strap and just drill 2 holes through the strap and frame. The strap “stop” simply bolts on and everything is removable if desired.
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JOHN
People Sleep Peacefully in Their Beds at Night Only Because Rough Men Stand Ready to Do Violence on Their Behalf
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05-16-2021, 05:56 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: St. Charles
Posts: 59
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I've moved our Anderson hitch to our second trailer. First time I experienced some slight shifting of the mounts and tack welded them to the frame. An angle grinder and about ten minutes time I removed them and put them on the other trailer.
If you're careful you can remove the welds without much cosmetic scarring to the frame.
Been on two years now and have not seen any slipping and have not had the need to weld them.
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Frank
2016 Jayco X23B, 2013 Silverado 2500 HD
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