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Old 06-13-2011, 08:55 AM   #1
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Question window awnings

I have a Eagle 322FKS and during the hot weather the a/c (15,000) has a hard time keeping up with the inside temp. even with the night shades closed. I have tinted the windows with reflective film. With a outside temp on 95 the inside will be 82 and the rear will be 75. I am considering having installed roll up window awnings, but I am concerned with the fiberglass exterior, and the warranty of the exterior.

Has anyone had window awnings installed? Have others experienced heat build up in their units and how do you help the a/c cool better? I try to pick a site where the side of the RV does not get the afternoon sun, but not always possible.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:15 AM   #2
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I have the roll up awnings over my windows and gonna say that they do work, I also have dual pane tinted windows too, and I bet that does more to help than the awnings.

Sounds like your ac unit is mounted in the same area of the trailer as mine is, at the rear over the living room, and that is why the living room is cooler. I shut off my ducts for the living room and that helps with the rest of the trailer, keeping the temps down. You could also add a second unit to, cheaper than the awnings I would think. Provided you have enough power where you camp, and provided Jayco has the wiring already setup in the trailer. In my bedroom over the bed where a second ac unit could be installed I have a exhaust fan, that can either bring air in or out and I can set the speed too, sometimes I set it for a low speed to take the hot air out, as the hot air in the trailer rises and usually goes upstairs into the bedroom.

tieing the kids up outside, keeps the door from not opening and closing all day, keep the cool air in and you won't have to refill the lemonade jug 12 times a day too. More savings.

Starting your ac in the morning before the temps rise helps alot too, as it is easier to maintain a temp rather than bring the temp down.

I think Jayco should have mounted the ac unit midship in the trailers, maybe more of a even distribution of cold air?????? I have two ceiling fans as well, and they are turning all the time to help with moving air around.

Also, service the filters on the unit too, I just did mine and was surprise how clogged they were, one on top of the unit is the condensor, clean out with water and a shop vac works good, and one on the inside, usually a foam type, wash it water let dry reinstall, check for any other dirt up in there too.

They say it should be a 20 degree difference, outside 100, inside 80. Your getting that in your living room so I suspect you need to move some air around inside the trailer, via, closing off ducts or fans????????
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:56 AM   #3
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If you plan to keep your "Eagle 322FKS" for many years and it's NO longer under warranty, I would remove its factory under belly insulation and apply 2 lbs Close Cell Spray Foam @ 3.5"-4" thick. If wondering, I got my the underbelly of my TT spray foaed 2 years ago and it's amazing. Not only did it firm up the floor but it also help eliminate critter entry risk. And, it also reduced heating &/or cooling costs. If you are a DIY person like me (and you plan to keep your trailer for many years - like me), I'd remove the outer Tin and spray faom its walls as well. Apply 2" of Spray Foam (instead of useless Fibreglass batts - that also hold water) within all outer wall cavitites. Simply do 2 sides every other year - to pace yourself. The energy efficiency from Spray Foam is amazing. IMO, all trailers should use Spay Foam (or vaccum bonded foam) within their outer wall, roof and underbelly areas. In the long run, having a Spray Foam trailer is well worth it...

re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg & http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg

In the long run, having a Spray Foam trailer is well worth it...
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:46 PM   #4
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Spike

Yup I like that. Did you have it sprayed in or did that yourself with the spray cans?????????? That is definitely something that I want to do.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:06 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by coalrig View Post
Spike. Yup I like that. Did you have it sprayed in or did that yourself with the spray cans?????????? That is definitely something that I want to do.
IMO. Cans and DIY kits are unless for bonding and thickness. If wondering, I got a professional contractor with this Mobile truck to spray foam the under side of my 2006 TT. I did the prep work and he simply sprayed it.

For more details of this mod and details of spray foam, surf entire contents @ https://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=1281

To compare fibreglass batts against stray foam, surf:

IMO, spray foam insulation should be "minimum" code within RVs/TTS. Especially for critter eliminations and for better water exposure. And, to maximize energy savings (reduct heat costs and reduce AC costs) as well.

For other simple DIY mods, surf entire thread at: https://www.jaycoowners.com/showthread.php?t=3106

Hope this helps...
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:12 PM   #6
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I know the fibreglass vat type is useless. I had a leak in the underbody and the vat insulation they used got wet, which reminds me that i need to take a look under there again.

Will check out the links, thanks
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:16 PM   #7
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Spike. Yup I like that. Did you have it sprayed in or did that yourself with the spray cans?????????? That is definitely something that I want to do.
To view the inside of a Sprinter Van being spray foamed by a "professional contractor", surf:

If wondering, I did the prep work on my TT. The contractor spray foamer guy used the same method - except laying on his back (under my TT).

Hope this video helps as well...
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:20 AM   #8
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Most heating sys are designed with a certain amount of back pressure into them. How does the addition of the screen affect the velocity of the air out the ducts. I have been told not to cover the vents or opening to the heater. Dono either way just asking for my info.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #9
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Most heating sys are designed with a certain amount of back pressure into them. How does the addition of the screen affect the velocity of the air out the ducts. I have been told not to cover the vents or opening to the heater. Dono either way just asking for my info.
I don't have the tools to perform detailed analysis of back pressure - when screens within vents are used. I do know that screen on windows (house windows as example) have next to zero wind resistance. Same applies to dryer vents - to keep critters out of this devices as well. During TT winterization tasks, I simply unscrew the furnances base screws , lift the furance up 1/2" and remove the screen. I then clean the screen mesh and re-install in reverse order. I also remove the floor vents and if needed, clean their screens as well. ALL lint within the screens must be removed - before winter storage. Same task as removing / cleaning screens on a house dryer system (its main lint trap and its exhaust vent). To me, the benefit of keeping critters (animals, nests and their droppings) out of the furnace is more important then adding "minor" wind drag down its factory duct pipes. If wind drag is an issue, I will simply remove the factory 3x10" square vents and replace with larger 4x10" screen vents. For example: Replace current http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...quareVent1.jpg with http://www.vent-covers.com/images/P/lpl410al.jpg (and ensure steel screen inside this larger floor vent).

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Old 06-15-2011, 11:14 PM   #10
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Like I said I was just curious if it made a diff. It would be better to keep critters out for sure. The first 5/W I had was a 28ft Sunnybrook and it had a reg flexible duct up to the bed room register and rats chewed a hole in it. Had to clean out the duct work before I could use sys. I wrapped the hole in duct tape and it never happened again before I traded. The Cedar Creek we have now has a rectangular metal duct that goes up there so I have had no prob.
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