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Old 09-30-2018, 03:43 PM   #1
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Question Winterizing Air Pressure Blow out Method

I have a 2016 Jayco White Hawk 29RBOK. This will be my first winterizing experience! On page 8-15 of the manual they present the option to use the Air Pressure Method, which looks incredibly simple. I am thinking this is the way I am going to go, unless I get any feedback on this post to the contrary.

A couple of questions:

1. On step 3 it says to "run the water pump until until it is dry for 15-20 seconds" Do they mean until the water pump is dry? and how do you know it is?

2. Step 4 says "Open all faucets and drains including outside shower faucets, and hold the flush lever open on the toilet" . Shouldn't this step be done before step 3 ?

3. On the last step (step 5) it says: "Use and air hose and a blowout plug, to blow air thru the City Water connection. Any remaining water should blow out in 5-10 minutes. Does it take that long? is it safe to do that?

3. Any other pros or cons for using the blowout method?

Thanks in advance to you all.
Eric
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Old 09-30-2018, 04:55 PM   #2
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I have used the air method for several years with good results. Here in South Mississippi, we don't get severe, prolonged freezes as the folks further north.
My method:
1 Drain holding tanks and fresh water tank
2 Drain water heater
3 open all faucets and outside shower
4 Run water pump until dry

5 Open low point drains

6 Hook up air compressor with blowout plug, with air pressure set to 35-40 psi
7 While the air is pushing the water out of the system, hold the toliet flush until

the water is gone.
8 Dump about a half a gallon of RV Antifreeze into the grey and black tanks to

protect the valves.
9 Take time for an adult beverage, (10 - 15 mins), run some more air thru the

system to make sure it dry as possible.
Using the air method, there will always be a small amount of water left in the lines, but there should be room for expansion without any damage.
Hope this helps.
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Old 09-30-2018, 05:39 PM   #3
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Even with air you have to be careful, as the plumbing might not be level enough to drain.
Then there's the pump which would have a short line with still water in it (will freeze and destroys the pump). The air blow through to remove water with RV Antifreeze is the safest method, both for connections and the pump.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:16 PM   #4
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Make sure you drain/empty the toilet flush valve as well.
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Old 09-30-2018, 06:21 PM   #5
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Some people use a small amount of antifreeze through the pump before the air.

You do need a huge volume of air to get most of the moisture out. That's the 5-10 minutes the procedure refers to.
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:01 PM   #6
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An inexpensive 12v compressor will work just fine. A large volume is NOT required. After you have drained the fresh tank, open the low point drains and open all faucets inside including the toilet and the outside shower fixture. That will break the vacumn and allow most of the water to flow out on its own. When the flow stops, close the lowpoint drains and all of the faucets and outlets inside. Hook up the compressor and after turning it on, go inside and one at a time open the faucets [both hot and cold]. Close that one and go on to the next and keep them open until you are just blowing air. don't forget the shower [inside and out] and the toilet flush valve. After you've gone thru all of them, go back and do them all again. You may get a small squirt but mostly air. Turn off the compressor and open the low point drains.
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassdogs View Post
An inexpensive 12v compressor will work just fine. A large volume is NOT required.
This is why forums are so much fun, we get some many different opinions. I always found a larger volume was really helpful. So much so that I added a 6 gallon carry tank to my 5 gallon pancake compressor to increase it's capacity when blowing out the trailer, and I STILL let it recharge several times during the process.
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Old 10-01-2018, 11:08 AM   #8
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X2 GrumpDad

I wonder where they got that information...……..fantasy land maybe?
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Old 10-01-2018, 11:28 AM   #9
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I agree the air method is preferable, especially if you're in a "low risk" climate. We get VERY few freezes around here, and even then, they rarely last more than a few hours over night. So I have been using the air method every year except my first year. Last year I also used BOTH methods because I knew I wasn't going to use the trailer for a LONG time after it was winterized. So I blew out the lines and filled everything with AF after Christmas. Ended up trading that trailer in winterized last April.

I take it one step further and will put plastic wrap over the toilet so the AF doesn't evaporate out. Depending on length of storage I will probably cover the sinks and shower as well so the P-traps don't dry out.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:30 PM   #10
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I guess I have been doing it wrong since I got the trailer. I would think the air is to blow water out of the "city water" portion so that it gets by the check valve. I have drained out all the water, bypassed the HW tank, and dumped 2 gallons of the pink stuff into the fresh water tank and ran the stuff through all if the valves, including the toilet. My tank is pretty small, so 2 gallons seems to work. We have miserably cold winters here and I have not had issues. Have I just been lucky?
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