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Old 09-18-2015, 07:56 AM   #1
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12 volt receptacle added to 1206

After having our camper out over a hot and steamy Labor Day weekend dry camping, one thing I wish I had on that trip was a fan. Well, now our 1206 HAS a fan and is getting another one added today! After talking with a fellow dry-camper friend who has a TT and her showing me their fan setup, I knew what I had to do.

I found the same exact fan at several locations and bought where I found it the cheapest (Meijer). The receptacle was another story. I hadn't gotten to an auto supply yet, but did finally find one that was not a surface mount (it's a through-mount) at of all places, Home Depot. Don't bother asking at Radio Shack...they look at you like you're speaking Greek! I drilled a hole, got the wires run and the new receptacle secured. The hardest part was securing the receptacle in the wall. It so happened that the paneling was coming loose right next to where we were installing and I could get my fingers back there to tighen the plastic nut.

The fan has two speeds, is oscillating and moves a LOT of air, plus it has a strong clip that I can clip onto the tent roof support bar. The switch/power cord is simply clipped onto the bunk curtain with a snap clothes pin. I can turn the fan toward the bunk or toward the center of the camper, depending on where the breeze is needed.

In the photo of the wiring, the electrical tape wrapped wire is the ground. I just used the extra length of red wire I didn't need from the receptacle to extend the ground wire (the ground wire is only about a foot long). You'll see a 15 amp inline fuse at the end of the red wire before the wire nut (the receptacle is rated at 15 amp max).

I just thought I'd share in case others might be "wishing" as well. This couldn't have been a simpler project and it is going to add SO much more comfort (our PUP doesn't have air).
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:05 AM   #2
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Good idea.


You can never have too many places to deliver 12VDC.


I'd argue the use of Scotch-Lock connectors. I've found they don't hold up well. I strip the wires and use crimped butt-splices. That way I'm not chasing intermittents after the 1st year.
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:57 AM   #3
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I like to use the MARINE QUALITY 12VDC Receptacles from BLUE SEA...

I never had very good luck with the cheap made ones...



This model comes with a matching 12VDC PLUG made for the 12VDC Receptacle that you can use on a high current application.

I found just drawing 5-6 AMPS DC for extended times will burn the plug and contacts if not a very good match between the socket and plug...

I use BLUE SEA MARINE PRODUCTS for most all of the 12VDC wiring applications in my trailer..

https://www.google.com/search?q=K(PH...12VDC+products

Roy Ken
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:43 AM   #4
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When we put the solar power in, we got them to put in a 12vdc plug also beside the bed,
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Old 09-18-2015, 01:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Good idea.


You can never have too many places to deliver 12VDC.


I'd argue the use of Scotch-Lock connectors. I've found they don't hold up well. I strip the wires and use crimped butt-splices. That way I'm not chasing intermittents after the 1st year.
Those type of connectors are ALL through the entire camper (from the factory), and so far, no electrical issues except for a bad running light socket, which was NOT the connector, there was a short in the wire up near the actual socket. For a 20 year old camper, I'd say they're holding up just fine. All of the connectors that I'm adding are where they are easily accessible, so if there is an issue, it's not a big deal. It's also kinda hard to use a butt-splice when you're trying to add a connection in the middle of a line. These connectors fit the bill perfectly for that application. They're a heck of a lot more reliable than a wire nut, that's for sure. Believe me, these things are hard to pry open on purpose!
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Old 09-18-2015, 01:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outrider View Post
Those type of connectors are ALL through the entire camper (from the factory), and so far, no electrical issues except for a bad running light socket, which was NOT the connector, there was a short in the wire up near the actual socket. For a 20 year old camper, I'd say they're holding up just fine. All of the connectors that I'm adding are where they are easily accessible, so if there is an issue, it's not a big deal. It's also kinda hard to use a butt-splice when you're trying to add a connection in the middle of a line. These connectors fit the bill perfectly for that application. They're a heck of a lot more reliable than a wire nut, that's for sure. Believe me, these things are hard to pry open on purpose!
Maybe it was the early ones, then. They came out when I was installing CB's and 8-Tracks in cars. Easy to use. Line everything up. Squeeze the cutter/connector into the wires and close the top.

All tested fine. Then the complaints would start about 6-8 months later that the radio wouldn't work until the car hit a bump.

So, I stopped using them and went 'old school'. No such issues since 1979.

Get me a part number on the ones you used and I'll check 'em out.
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Old 09-18-2015, 01:35 PM   #7
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I have a couple of the regular 12VDC automotive type receptacles in my OFF-ROAD POPU that are out of the way. I use the these for my computer/cell phone accessories using these 12VDC USB ADAPTERS... I am not a real fan of 12VDC cigarette type lighter plugs as they will get hot on you due to the poor workmanship of the cheap sockets.

I actually use the USB ADAPTERS more than anything else 12VDC wise..



Most of my other low wattage items are 120VAC like the HDTV - NOAA WX ALERERT Radios etc... These I use a small wattage 120VAC PSW INVERTER direct connected to my battery bank and have a specific emergency 120VAC wall receptacle for these items...

I also have alot of 12VDC connections that are wired into a 12VDC BLUE SEA FUSED SUB PANEL. I have three or four Ham radio type scanner and radio units tied into this subpanel. This is directly fed by a single fused conenction and mine has 6 separate fused tie-in points using 10-gauge ring terminals...


Roy Ken
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I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
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"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
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Old 09-18-2015, 02:13 PM   #8
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Good job. I have added 5 different 12 volt ports in our HTT. Three are traditional auxiliary 12volt jacks like you have, and two are the white large speaker type that most of the new RVs have for plugging in fans/lights. I have two aux ports in a small cabinet I made by our radio, so we can easily charge the phones, while keeping them off the counter and I placed one inside the refrigerator access panel, that I use to power my 12V air compressor to top off the tires on that side of the unit.

Been thinking about adding 1 or 2 more by the beds to charge my DW's phone that never leaves her reach, so a charging cable is not running across the dinette at night.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:42 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Maybe it was the early ones, then. They came out when I was installing CB's and 8-Tracks in cars. Easy to use. Line everything up. Squeeze the cutter/connector into the wires and close the top.

All tested fine. Then the complaints would start about 6-8 months later that the radio wouldn't work until the car hit a bump.

So, I stopped using them and went 'old school'. No such issues since 1979.

Get me a part number on the ones you used and I'll check 'em out.
They're from Home Depot in the electrical department. Of course, I can't find it on their website. They are by Tyco Electronics. They're called AMP Splice Tap Connectors. They came in a variety pack of blue, yellow and red. The sizes accommodate wire gauges 10-22.
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