AC to DC

[NorCalKing]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Be sure TH is on high when testing.

Excuse my ignorance, but what does TH stand for?

[ALJO]

Thermostat. Also 3 way Fridges on 12 volt selection drains the battery pretty fast.
Turn on a Fridge at least a day before departure. Try to charge your battery manually with a charger and have it tested.

[octane]

start by checking the voltage on the battery itself, is the fuse on the battery good? if the fuse is bad, the battery will not charge and not provide power. if voltage is low, recharge it, change the fuse, and see if the lights work.

older fridges don't all need power. My fridge is a 3 way that I have to press a red button multiple times to light, and doesn't have an "auto" mode, so it's doesn't require power to run.

[NorCalKing]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Thermostat. Also 3 way Fridges on 12 volt selection drains the battery pretty fast.
Turn on a Fridge at least a day before departure. Try to charge your battery manually with a charger and have it tested.

I think I’m just going to take the battery down to the auto parts store and have them test it. Thanks for all of your input!

[TWP723]

Originally Posted by NorCalKing

I think I’m just going to take the battery down to the auto parts store and have them test it. Thanks for all of your input!

That's your best bet. Expect to wait about an hour.

[NorCalKing]

Originally Posted by octane

start by checking the voltage on the battery itself, is the fuse on the battery good? if the fuse is bad, the battery will not charge and not provide power. if voltage is low, recharge it, change the fuse, and see if the lights work.

older fridges don't all need power. My fridge is a 3 way that I have to press a red button multiple times to light, and doesn't have an "auto" mode, so it's doesn't require power to run.

Thanks! I’ll check in the fuse. The trailer has a 7 pin hookup, so it should charge while I’m towing right? Because even right after setting up after towing it for an hour, the lights wouldn’t run off of 12v.

My fridge isn’t that old. The trailer is a 2013 model, but the way you describe your fridge sounds exactly like mine. It’s a 3 way. No auto setting. It’s got a red button you push, but I’ve never got it running off of propane? On yours do you just keep pushing the button until it lights?

[NorCalKing]

Originally Posted by norty1

Take the battery to a auto parts shop and have it tested. Take your checkbook with you!

I think that’s what I’m going to have to do. I just had to buy a new battery for my pickup too.

[John from Central Florida]

Originally Posted by NorCalKing

It’s got a red button you push, but I’ve never got it running off of propane? On yours do you just keep pushing the button until it lights?

It seems to take forever. I knew a camper once that actually had a small dowell that he used to hold the button down so he could attend to other stuff while the fridge took its own sweet time purging air

[NorCalKing]

Originally Posted by John from Central Florida

It seems to take forever. I knew a camper once that actually had a small dowell that he used to hold the button down so he could attend to other stuff while the fridge took its own sweet time purging air

Ha! That’s funny. I know it’s the same thing with the water heater. It takes forever to purge the air. I must have been too impatient with the fridge.

We’re camping at the KOA in my hometown this weekend for my mother-in-law’s birthday. That will give me plenty of opportunity to work on this stuff a little more thoroughly.

[wducat]

A frig usually has an auto setting to switch. Water heaters are generally 12. TVs vary and are usually one or the other. My Seneca has an inverter for running low amp AC items such as TVs, other entertainment devices and the microwave. My stove is glass to induction, so AC only. Air conditioning units are AC only. We have a generator to produce AC when required. Most trailers don’t have generators, so so you may want to look at an inverter generator such as a Honda. You do need to size it for your amp draw. Hope this helps.

[Paul Greig]

Hi all...this email comes to you from Australia, as you would possibly know RVing is very similar in our two countries, I find it interesting to read of some of the differences however, and the question of energy connections, AC, DC, propane/butane has me intrigued.
Firstly, down here it is illegal in all states to travel with the fridge running on gas, the reason for this is sound, a gas fridge operates when a small flames heats the refrigerant, to pull into a fuel station where petrol, diesel and gas fumes abound could be catastrophic, I think I may have misunderstood US rules in relation to this .
Most commonly Australian RV fridges are called 'three way', they run on gas (A mixture of butane and propane here), 12 vdc and when in a Caravan (trailer) park, on 240vac*. When traveling we switch them to run from the tow vehicle electrics, as a common fridge will require around 120w this connect to the tow vehicle is direct to the battery via suitable gauge wires and via the ignition switch to prevent flattening the starter battery, it is also common to fit dual batteries to the tow vehicle. Likewise most Australian caravans have one or two deep cycle batteries installed, solar panel(s) fitted on the roof will keep them charged, when connected to 240vdc a charger also maintains battery levels should the sunshine go.
In recent years the 2 way compressor fridges (12/240) are gaining popularity and will no doubt be the most popular in days to come...these fridges are very efficient but they do require connection to an energy source constantly.
* 240vdc is the domestic power supply Australia wide.

Cheers,
Paul,
Queensland Australia

[jjtotten]

Originally Posted by NorCalKing

My family recently purchased a 2013 Jay Series Sport 12BS. This past weekend we took it camping for the first time without full hookups.

We could not get any appliances to run on 12v while we were there. Is there a switch somewhere to switch from AC to DC power or does it automatically run on DC if it’s not plugged in? I read through the owner’s manual, but couldn’t find anything. I’m just trying to figure out if it’s the battery that needs to be replaced or if it’s just me not knowing what I’m doing.

Thanks!

I ran into the same thing on my RV and found that there was a disconnect switch for the 12 volt system which I had missed. Your situation sounds like mine. I went into a shop and the tech just flipped the switch to the on position and all my troubles were solved. I felt dumb but thankful as he had gone through the same thing in a borrowed RV. The refrigerator if it is dual mode and on 12 volts requires the 12 volts to keep the safety features operating which shuts the gas off if the flame goes out.

[BrentB]

Originally Posted by NorCalKing

When we unplug, the lights will go super dim just for a minute, then go out completely. Sounds like I need a new battery.

Yep!