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Old 08-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #1
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Winterizing RV

What needs to be done to winterize a Class C RV? It is it best to just bring to an RV dealer to do? What are normal costs?

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Old 08-24-2012, 12:46 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kennyc View Post
What needs to be done to winterize a Class C RV? It is it best to just bring to an RV dealer to do? What are normal costs?
It is very simple and usually takes me about 10-15 minutes. The procedures are in the manual and clear cut.

Joe & Barb
Shoreview, MN
Navarre, FL
2006 Granite Ridge 2900GS
2015 Montana High Country 345RL
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:12 PM   #3
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Need to drain water and run RV/Marine antifreeze into the system. Can get at MalMart. It's simple to do.
I also change the oil in the genset. Remove "all" food stocks. Check all slide & window seals.
Good time to check the roof and caulk if needed.
Disconnect batteries or remove.
We still use our rv in the winter so I don't get real carried away. Love winter camping!
Tom Copeland
2011 Melbourne 29D
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:07 PM   #4
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the big thing that you have to winterize, if you live where the temps go below freezing, is the water system.

Drain all of the water that you can by opening all water lines valve, removing the plug or anode rod from the water heater. Then bypass the water heater. You need to turn 1 to 3 valves if the bypass is all ready installed. The number of valves depends on the bypass itself. Now you have a choice. You can blow compressed air through all of your water lines, or pump RVantifreeze through all of your water lines (do not put RV antifreeze in the water heater, that is why you bypass the water heater), or you can blow air through the lines and then pump antifreeze through the line afterward. You need to close all of the valves you opened (except the fresh water holding tank) and buy a "nipple" that screws into the city water supply if you are going to blow air through the water lines. I always keep one water faucet open when the compressor is running. Open one valve, turn the compressor on. When water stops coming out open another valve and then close the first valve. Go around the camper doing this at all water exits, sinks/shower/toilet/outside shower. If you are going to use antifreeze you will close the valves and IF your unit came with a hose attached to the water pump turn the valve on that hose, put the open end of the hose in the jug of RV antifreeze and turn the water pump on. Then go to each water exit and open the valve until the RV antifreeze comes out. Pour 1/2 a cop of the RV antifreezw down each drain to fill the trap in the drain line/

A few notes: Only use RV antifreeze which is usually pink, scented antifreeze will make it harder to get the scent out of the water lines when you dewinterize the camper, with the water pump turned off go outside and open the city water connection. Pull the screen/washer cover out and you will see a white plastic thing (it is a check valve that prevents water from coming out of the city water connection when you are using your water pump and fresh water tank), push on the end of the check valve and some RV antifreeze will come out. When your black and grey tanks are empty pour some antifreeze in them (if you want, I don't except what goes in when I am running the antifreeze through the water lines). If you can't empty your fresh water tank pour some antifreeze in there if you want. There is a lot of room in the holding tanks for the small amount to water that is in an "empty" holding tank to expand without harming the tanks. If you don't have the hose attached to the water line near the water pump to suck the antifreeze out of the bottle buy yourself a manual RV pump and pump the antifreeze through your water lines.
No I am NOT retired. I work full time.:D

Tracy from Central PA

2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:49 AM   #5
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I'm assuming that RV antifreeze does not expand or contract based on the ambient temperature....can someone confirm that this assumption is correct?
2011 Jayco 29L w/Outside Kitchen
Reese Straight-Line WDH
2001 F250 Lariat 6.8L Crew w/Long Bed
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:57 AM   #6
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That is correct. It will start to get slushy at temps usually 0 or below and if undiluted it is good to -50 in most cases. As was mentioned above, definitely do not use regular antifreeze you will contaminate your water system.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:05 AM   #7
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I have a 2008 Seneca HD 36FS with an ice maker equipped refrigerator. We had it in storage in Tucson November through mid-January after I winterized it according to the Jayco Manual. When we arrved at tne RV campground where it was stored and connected the water supply, I noticed a water leak coming from under the refrigerator. Couldn't see any source from the connections below the fridge but did notice some water damage to the flooring. I checked the water pressure at the site and set the pressure regulator to 40 psi. Still leaked intermittently. Then I filled the fresh water tank and used the RV water pump to supply water to the RV, problem continued. Opened the outside access panel and discovered a small leak from the garden nose adapter to the solenoid valve. The adapter seemed to be mis-threaded onto the plastic connector. Removed that and replaced a hardened rubber gasket. Same issue. I closed the small valve to the ice maker solenoid and problem was solved. When I read through the NORCOLD owner's manual, I found a section that tells you to remove the garden hose adapter and drain the the ice maker water line prior to storage. I'm convinced the line froze, and forced the adapter loose. The Jayco manual does not say anything about this in the section on winterizing. That is disappointing to say the least. I now will have the refrigerator removed and serviced to fix the leak. What a pain.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:49 PM   #8
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I am trying to winterize my 2015 seneca fs and I hook up the hose (provided by the factory) and put the other end in the bottle of RV antifreeze, turn on the pump and then turn on the facuet and nothing happens. I have turned the setting on the panel to winterize which is 2 & 4, nothing. Am i doing something wrong or is this another problem I am having with this new motorhome and it needs to go back to the dealer?
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:31 AM   #9
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I don't think anything is wrong, you just need to get a prime. Take your input hose and add some antifreeze into it thru a funnel then turn the pump on with a faucet open, and stick the hose into the jug. You could take the city water screen out and turn it around and re install it to hold the check valve open and make it easier for the pump to draw. Make sure all connections are tight so it can't draw any air. LOL ...........next year it will go a lot easier .
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #10
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here is a little quick guide I have made up for my Greyhawk 29MV…..so I can remember it all for next year since I am so new to RVing. Maybe it will help you out better then the manual.

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