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Old 07-15-2016, 02:58 PM   #11
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Well I went and checked my battery and its hooked up as it should be. I ordered a new 45 amp converter today as the one in my coach screams when its plugged in. I suppose its just worn out and wants to retire. I have not had time to do all the great suggestions to my 12 volt problem but I'm hoping to get some time on Saturday. I'll keep you all posted....
It is probably a good idea to replace it if it is loud. Mine is pretty much silent, except for a fan the runs sometimes. But even then, it is not very loud.
Once you have the new one installed. Leave the trailer unplugged for a minute and measure the voltage on the DC wires attached to the convertor. Fully charged you should see 12.7V or so. If you read significantly less that this, then either your batteries are not charged or you have a bad connection to the batteries. Take another measurement directly on the battery terminals, they should be very close to the same reading as you got on the converter.
Now, plug in the trailer to AC. You should see the voltage rise to something > 13V, depending on the charge state of the battery. After it charges overnight you should read >=13.2V on both the battery and the connections to the converter.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:11 PM   #12
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I received my new converter in yesterdays mail but have had no time to install it or check what Don had suggested. I will do a complete check when I install it...hopefully before the weekend...

Again, Thanks for all the suggestions and tips...
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:20 PM   #13
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Well I installed the new converter this evening. Still not getting 12V when I unplug the shore power so I'm assuming I have a broken wire between the battery and the 12V fuse center. At this point with us leaving on a camping vacation soon I'm just going to live with this problem until we get back. I realize the fridge won't be working while we're traveling but with us only traveling around 3 hours from home I'm sure everything will stay cold and frozen. I'm gonna then take the coach to my local dealer and let him find and fix the problem.
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:58 PM   #14
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Well I installed the new converter this evening. Still not getting 12V when I unplug the shore power so I'm assuming I have a broken wire between the battery and the 12V fuse center. At this point with us leaving on a camping vacation soon I'm just going to live with this problem until we get back. I realize the fridge won't be working while we're traveling but with us only traveling around 3 hours from home I'm sure everything will stay cold and frozen. I'm gonna then take the coach to my local dealer and let him find and fix the problem.

If you're only traveling three hours, you wont have any problem at all with things staying cold in the fridge. Assuming it is pre-chilled and loaded when you pull out.
In fact everything should be good 6 -8 hours without the fridge running. The longest we have gone was on a drive from home down to the lower 48, pulled an 11 hour day without the fridge running and everything was still cool in the fridge and everything in the freezer was still frozen.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:13 PM   #15
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Just throwing it out there but is the battery itself bad?? Check it and make sure it is not defective.
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:54 PM   #16
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Smile

Battery is brand new Duracell from our local Sam's Club. It has a 03/16 date code so its not old stock. I made contact with my local RV dealer and have an appointment to drop off my coach on the 7th of August so I'm hopin they get this last glitch out of this used trailer. I'm still in the black when it comes to what we paid compared to blue book value so I'm still in love with the unit...
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:37 PM   #17
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I am taking it for granted that your battery connections are WHITE (Negative) and BLACK (Positive).

- Make sure that the NEGATIVE battery terminal's cable goes down to the frame. Also, make sure that the cable connect to the frame is clean and tight.

- Does your TT have a 30 Amp main fuse by the battery? IF so is the fuse holder clean or corroded? While checking the fuse holder out, and your shore power connected, with your volt meter, and the fuse out, check to see if you have 12VDC on each of the connectors in the fuse holder. You should have voltages on each connector, the connector going toward the TT will have 12VDC from your TT's battery charge controller. On the fuse holder connector toward the battery should have 12VDC from the battery.

- When you say you checked the fuses, did you use a volt/ohm meter to check them? You would be surprised at how many members said that it looked good, but when they checked them with a meter they were bad.

- If you do not have 12VDC on the TT side of the fuse holder your problem is between there and the TT's charge controller.

- Let us know the mfr and model of your TT's battery charge controller as it may have a reverse polarity fuse that has blown.

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Old 07-21-2016, 06:16 PM   #18
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I'll go out on a limb and predict it's something with the ground cable from the battery to the frame. This is so often a problem that is not only overlooked, but it causes really weird problems. And it's usually very easy to fix. Sometimes, all it takes is a broken cable or some corrosion.....
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:29 PM   #19
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I'll go out on a limb and predict it's something with the ground cable from the battery to the frame. This is so often a problem that is not only overlooked, but it causes really weird problems. And it's usually very easy to fix. Sometimes, all it takes is a broken cable or some corrosion.....

Can't hurt to check!!!

Also, know that you may not have trailer brakes in an emergency if the trailer becomes unhooked from the tv. The battery is what powers the breaks in that type of event.

Good luck finding the issue! And safe travels!!!
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:46 PM   #20
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X2 with a broken cable or some corrosion..... Usually on the frame side of the cable. Be sure both ends are clean and tight. Make sure there is no "green" between the connector and the cable itself.
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