recaulk question

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Pretty sure it's not silicone. Silicone is usually rubberry feeling. There was silicone above the gutters on that roof to wall transition for sure i removed all that and put dicor. Does feel or look anything like that. I may be wrong though. Does proflex turn yellow?

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by RichCarter

If it's silicone, JDooley is right. Nothing will stick to it. Try to put some Proflex on a small area and let it dry. If it sticks, you're OK to clean it up and put some Proflex over it.

Thanks i'll probably try that. I know not even silicone sticks to silicone! I like the idea of removing everything and redoing the butyl but it's over all the lights and plugs and everything. That would be a huge job. But if I have to I will. One step at a time.

[JDooley]

A sealant test is best. Apply some in a small area and allow 7-10 days for it to cure out.

The application of sealant is really a special process.

Preperation is the most important step.

Choice of sealant is critical.

Considerations for material (substrate) movement. Thermal expansion and contraction.

The use of bond breaker tape for flat surfaces without a sealant well.

The use of backer rod for seams which have a sealant well. Backer rod must be 125% of the sealant well width

Bond breaker and backerrod prevents 3 sided adhesion. This allows the two joining substrates to move without causing the sealant to fail from adhesive failure.

With all these consideration one sees why we must check seals and caulking every 6 - 12 months. This is also why products such as Eterna-Bond is well recommended. In areas as the roof to front and rear caps the tape does very well.
In your case and areas at slide out trims ect ( painted areas) a geocel type sealant (what mfg usually reccomend)

When using butyl tape behind a window flange allow some time for the tape to ooze out from the pressure applied before applying a covering sealant from the siding to frame.
As the butyl tape oozes out trim flush untill it stops. Then seal over with a covering sealant.

These are just facts researchable online and generally known practices.
These are worth exactly what you paid for.
30+ years in construction is the backing to my comments.

Hope they help.

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Look at Lexel also. No mildew, fast set, apply in dampness, waterproof, and comes in clear or white.
I used proflex for years and have switched to lexel. Comes in squeeze tube or regular caulk gun tube.

PaulB12

I've already got 1 and 1/2 tubes of proflex but curious why you like lexel better? Does it last longer? I see you say no mildew does proflex get mildew? In your experience how long does proflex usually last before having to redo or touch up?

On another note. I just received my new door latch..do I need to use butyl tape before screwing it on. I think I see a few small pieces where the screws go through. Or can I just put a bunch of proflex. I want to do it right..

[PaulB12]

One reason I switched was you can use in wet conditions, i.e. rain. From reading it can be used on many surfaces and they claim no mildew.
On your latches, I'd squeeze some(caulk of your choice((lexel, hehe)) into screw holes, tighten up and apply more around the latch.
PaulB12

[JDooley]

Do not seal around latch as this will cause the latch to hold water.
Butyl tape or spots of sealant at the screw penetrations only.
Just sayin......been there done that.

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by JDooley

Do not seal around latch as this will cause the latch to hold water.
Butyl tape or spots of sealant at the screw penetrations only.
Just sayin......been there done that.

Thanks for the tip dooley..maybe just the screws and then a bead over the top? That way can still drip out the bottom..

[JDooley]

I would only do screws water still gets in. But it shouldn't hurt. Just a cleaner look without

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by LuckyDuck

X2 on Proflex. You can also smooth the joint easily with your finger and soapy water.

Soapy water may help keep Proflex from sticking to your finger since it is not water based.

One RV shop video I watched says to smooth Proflex bead with your finger wetted with mineral spirits. They said that mineral spirits can also be used to prep the seam and to clean off any excess sealant.

They also said to cut a small hole in the tube's application tip so the bead is not too large.

[Ninjapants]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Re- caulked vertical seams. Took off old shrunk black molding and replaced with white, and caulked. Looks 1000 % better and probably doesn't leak any more.

PaulB12

Paul, I need to replace our black molding that has shrunken. Did you order it online or get it through a dealer? If online, can you please give me the website? Thanks in advance!

[PaulB12]

Sorry for the delay. I can't seem to find the info on the molding. I couldn't find it in black so I opted for white, not the exact size but worked. Was able to get it by the foot. I think dealers and some places I had to buy minimums, way more than I needed.
This was the molding between the rock guard and front cap, not the corner moldings. Google rv molding and that should get you started.
PaulB12

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Went to replace the door holder latch thing today. Square screws and the part that connects to body and the part on the door looks like nothing I've ever seen. They are just circles. Nothing for a tool to grip too..do I just pop these out with a flat head or something?

[JDooley]

Looks to be a sort of rivet.

If it was me I would use a dremel and cut a straight slot and try a flat head screw driver on one of them. If it does not unscrew then I would drill them with a larger bit to shave off the head to release the latch catch. Push the rivits in, seal with sealant, and reinstall new rivits. Or offset a bit and install fasteners of your choice after sealing the rivit holes.

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Thanks dooley. Yes they are rivets. I just made a mistake. Feeling pretty dumb right now. I pried them out with flat head. Even cracked the door a very little around the holes. Afterwards realizing that part didnt even need to be replaced. I should of just left it. Yes its faded but only needed to replace the other side with the broken arm. Now I have a new problem on my hands. How will I reconnect the new peice that came with screws? Maybe fill the hole with wood glue?

[JDooley]

Larger rivits (diameter) or craft a 1/8" aluminum plate shaped to the catch shape. Rivit to door with 5200 sealant between plate and door. Then predrilled and insert screws.

If you have a sheet metal shop near and ask for a scrap of aluminum

[JDooley]

Stainless is good also just a bit harder to work

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Thanks dooley. Smh. Just bought a peice of metal. Only had 8 x 24. Now I got to cut it. Got self tapping screws.

Another question. Can I put 2 peices of butyl tape together to make it thicker to ensure a nice seal?

Is butyl tape and putty tape the same thing?

[JDooley]

Yes they are the same.

With an even coat of tape thin is better as when you tighten the fasteners and put pressure on tape, over time, it will ooze out

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by JDooley

Larger rivits (diameter) or craft a 1/8" aluminum plate shaped to the catch shape. Rivit to door with 5200 sealant between plate and door. Then predrilled and insert screws.

If you have a sheet metal shop near and ask for a scrap of aluminum

Still trying to figure out how I'm going to repair this door latch holder situation. I just realized I dont think door is metal. Looks like plastic or fiber glass or something. I bought self tapping screws to attach metal plate to door. That's not going to work. I dont have a rivet gun. Any other ideas? Do you think something like gorilla glue bonding epoxy would be enough to give the door and plate a permanent bond that will hold? Probably wishful thinking...Sure would make things easier. Then could just self tap door catch bracket to metal plate.

Guy at ace hardware suggested maybe slicing a mail slot in the bottom of door and sliding the metal plate up in to get behind holes. Basically in betweeen insulation and outside of door panel. Then could use self tapping screws. Then wouldnt see the plate either. I have to look at the door but hate to slice up the door and risk more damage.

[PaulB12]

Ok, here is my fix for you.
Find an appropriate size ss wood screw just large enough and long enoughto be tight in the existing holes and not go through thickness of door. Clean both door and latch dohicky. Squeeze some caulk(I'd use either lexel or geocel pro flex) into holes. Use your choice of adhesive (mine would definitely be lexel caulk) to flat places on door catch and screw down being careful of not stripping holes with new screws. Let cure. Should be as good as original.
Again. That's how I'd fix if it were mine.

Paul B12