Enclosing Underbelly

[Origjcc]

Thanks in advance for ignoring if I missed a prior post on this. Anyone done there own underlying enclosure that didn't order one already done?
Is coroplast the method of choice?

It was 106 today camping not sure why I started thinking of now.

Thanks again, looking at wrapping pipes, heating underside, and enclosing underbelly.


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[Marcm157]

I thought about it and actually priced out the coroplast and other materials but after hearing stories of leaks and other problems folks with enclosed underbellies have I decided against it.

[ALJO]

Mine was enclosed but I installed R12 insulation. If you can get the coroplast in the width of your frame and the length of the frame is the best method. At least you can start at the back and use a winch type to hold it tight at the front. Use some extra cross members from wood or metal. Then you have to buy for the outside wrap around (aluminum) some shops can mold this for you. Be sure around the axles and at the front no water can get in. Depends on the layout you can put heat tape on the FW tank and necessary pipes. Also you can run a heating duct in the underbelly where the Grey and Black tank is. You're good for extreme winter camping in Colorado.

[Origjcc]

Thanks for the advice!


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[triplebvalp]

I often wonder why duct board couldn't be used as an under belly "board". Its ridge enough and could add an R value layer to the underside of the RV.

[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

I often wonder why duct board couldn't be used as an under belly "board". Its ridge enough and could add an R value layer to the underside of the RV.

Think it would hold moisture?


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[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by Origjcc

Think it would hold moisture?


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Certainly it would hold moisture if you had a leak from the plumbing system. As long as that wasn't the case, it should work well for its intended purpose.

[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

Certainly it would hold moisture if you had a leak from the plumbing system. As long as that wasn't the case, it should work well for its intended purpose.

Was more thinking of driving in heavy rain, if would hold from undercarriage spray. Thanks


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[gwenzel]

We just bought a 2016 Jay Flight 34RSBS. This is the first RV we have bought without undercarriage covering. I suppose unless you get the factory insulation package, it is open. Should we be concerned with all the underside open to the road?
How about camping in moderate winter conditions? 50-32 degrees?

[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by gwenzel

We just bought a 2016 Jay Flight 34RSBS. This is the first RV we have bought without undercarriage covering. I suppose unless you get the factory insulation package, it is open. Should we be concerned with all the underside open to the road?
How about camping in moderate winter conditions? 50-32 degrees?

Not the Jayco gospel here however last year we camped into 30's and high 20's all good in our 264BH. Wasn't until we hit the teens one night that ran into issues.


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[Atlee]

I have a covered underbelly on my 23RB. It's supposedly insulated,
but it is not heated. Has no duct dumping heat down near the fresh water tanks, etc.

For me one of the biggest reasons to have the enclosed underbellly is to keep road salt, road grime, and water off the pipes, connections, and tanks.

However, instead of one long piece of coloplast, I wish they cut into sections that cover major areas. For example a piece long enough to cover the black and gray tanks. A piece large enough to cover the fresh water tanks, etc.

Originally Posted by gwenzel

We just bought a 2016 Jay Flight 34RSBS. This is the first RV we have bought without undercarriage covering. I suppose unless you get the factory insulation package, it is open. Should we be concerned with all the underside open to the road?
How about camping in moderate winter conditions? 50-32 degrees?

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by gwenzel

We just bought a 2016 Jay Flight 34RSBS. This is the first RV we have bought without undercarriage covering. I suppose unless you get the factory insulation package, it is open. Should we be concerned with all the underside open to the road?
How about camping in moderate winter conditions? 50-32 degrees?

We do not have an enclosed underbelly on our 23B. We camp in the low 20's at night, with day time highs above freezing and have had no issues.

If I had an enclosed underbelly, I would want tank heaters, and would not care for a heat duct, to the area.

[vcbice]

Our old fiver had exposed underbelly. When it got down to hard freeze temps (25?) the water line from the bottom of the water tank to the water pump would freeze up.

Needless to say we didn't use it much if outside temps did not get well above freezing during the day.

Other issue. A couple of days not getting above freezing the furnace would go through a propane bottle.

[GRM]

Origjcc, I got a 98 model 5th wheel that has a thin aluminum underbelly. At places where you might need to access things like the black and grey tanks they had a 1/8" black stiff plastic sheet screwed to the frame members. When I got the trailer the fresh water tank was missing the black plastic cover. I looked everywhere for this plastic and couldn't find it anywhere. Coroplast was so expensive I opted for 26g sheet metal from the local metal mart store for about 40$ for a 4'x10' sheet. I reinsulated, cut the metal to fit and screwed to frame. Also drilled several 1/8" holes for any drainage of moisture that may get up in there. If you do this don't let anybody tell you the galvilume finish is better than a painted finish. Didn't matter to me what color cause it's not seen. JMHO....good luck with it.

[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by GRM

Origjcc, I got a 98 model 5th wheel that has a thin aluminum underbelly. At places where you might need to access things like the black and grey tanks they had a 1/8" black stiff plastic sheet screwed to the frame members. When I got the trailer the fresh water tank was missing the black plastic cover. I looked everywhere for this plastic and couldn't find it anywhere. Coroplast was so expensive I opted for 26g sheet metal from the local metal mart store for about 40$ for a 4'x10' sheet. I reinsulated, cut the metal to fit and screwed to frame. Also drilled several 1/8" holes for any drainage of moisture that may get up in there. If you do this don't let anybody tell you the galvilume finish is better than a painted finish. Didn't matter to me what color cause it's not seen. JMHO....good luck with it.

Thanks GRM, I'm pretty handy with sheet metal, had thought of that as well. Good to know!


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[rodro123]

If you cover you’re under belly and run duct work you can extend the camping season. I’m in Wisconsin we camp well into November with night time lows into the 20ies. We do use the electric heater and the on board propane heater. We never had a freeze up of water lines or tanks. Late fall camping is great without leaves on the trees or any bugs out.