leds below the awning on aluminum siding

[xcav8er]

hey guys i have an older trailer with aluminum siding and a manual awning. i was wondering how to mount leds just below the awning so they can be used if the awning is open or closed. from what ive read it doesnt sound like 2 sided tape is enough to keep the leds in place if they arent tucked under the closed awning. does anyone know a good solution?

[Danno]

The problem is that the tape used on these LED strips is not the best, and has difficulty sticking to the surface of the trailer. What I've done in the past is used high quality 3M trim double sided tape and used that in between the trailer and the LED strip. You can buy this at an auto supply store that sells bodyshop supplies.

[xcav8er]

i havent had much experience with double sided tape, do you think a good tape would hold up to the wind and weather if the led strip is out in the open and not pinched under the awning?

[JFlightRisk]

Ditto on the 3M body side molding tape. Usually has a red backer peel off, and grey or black sticky tape. Use alcohol wipes where you're mounting it on the TT side to remove waxes and contaminants. It'll stay on for a long time.

[xcav8er]

hey thats great! if i can just stick it on that will make the job easy. thanks for the tip guys.

[Seann45]

Clean the siding with alcohol wipes before you try to apply the 3M tape.. it will remove the wax and give better adhesion. Mine has been in place for 5 years now..

[Polecat28328]

just recently did this to my xls 26bhs. I used a cheap set of leds the first go around with the exterior 3m tape. i wasn't satisfied with the leds that i bought, so i removed them ( pain in the A$$) and bought a Boogey Light Kit. it was quiet a bit more expensive but i was satisfied. My lights are bright and have several color and mode options . They came with 3m taped installed, alcohol for cleaner , and some sort of 3m primer . They are very firmly in place. We just made our maden voyage this past weeekend 170 miles one way and they haven't budged.

[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by Polecat28328

just recently did this to my xls 26bhs. I used a cheap set of leds the first go around with the exterior 3m tape. i wasn't satisfied with the leds that i bought, so i removed them ( pain in the A$$) and bought a Boogey Light Kit. it was quiet a bit more expensive but i was satisfied. My lights are bright and have several color and mode options . They came with 3m taped installed, alcohol for cleaner , and some sort of 3m primer . They are very firmly in place. We just made our maden voyage this past weeekend 170 miles one way and they haven't budged.

The 3m primer is no joke. Great stuff, wear gloves.


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[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by Origjcc

The 3m primer is no joke. Great stuff, wear gloves.


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I agree 100%. I've though about doing some frame lighting to match my under awning.


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[Origjcc]

Originally Posted by Polecat28328

I agree 100%. I've though about doing some frame lighting to match my under awning.


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I actually have two sections left from kit, was doing the same think if nothing else to aid in set up and backing up.


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[xcav8er]

great info guys, thanks. I still have two questions:

I want to use the amber porch light as my 12v source and tuck the rf receiver into the light housing. is there an adapter that i can plug into the porch light socket? or maybe a simple way to rig an adapter?

also for those who have done this already how did you secure the wires running from the porch light up to the led strip so they don't flap in the wind?

[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by xcav8er

great info guys, thanks. I still have two questions:



I want to use the amber porch light as my 12v source and tuck the rf receiver into the light housing. is there an adapter that i can plug into the porch light socket? or maybe a simple way to rig an adapter?



also for those who have done this already how did you secure the wires running from the porch light up to the led strip so they don't flap in the wind?

That's exactly what I did. But behind my outside light was the cabinetry in my camper. I did drill 2 small holes inside of the exterior of my camper. One at the end of the led lights which came inside in the upper bunk. Routed my wires through the cabinets over the dinette and just lucked out and the exterior light actually is on the outside of my cabinets.


So pretty much none of my wiring is on the exterior. All of my wiring is interior. I figured it would be easier and less worries


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[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by xcav8er

great info guys, thanks. I still have two questions:



I want to use the amber porch light as my 12v source and tuck the rf receiver into the light housing. is there an adapter that i can plug into the porch light socket? or maybe a simple way to rig an adapter?



also for those who have done this already how did you secure the wires running from the porch light up to the led strip so they don't flap in the wind?

I sent you a private message with how I installed mine. Maybe it will help


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[max2bob]

does anyone know how many amps the boogey light kit draws? we dry camp a lot and only have one battery on the small camper. I am on their website and cant find the amperage draw but they mention if you are plugged in to 110v and only have a singe stage converter, it cant keep up with the lights and they will dim. sounds like a pretty good draw.

[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by max2bob

does anyone know how many amps the boogey light kit draws? we dry camp a lot and only have one battery on the small camper. I am on their website and cant find the amperage draw but they mention if you are plugged in to 110v and only have a singe stage converter, it cant keep up with the lights and they will dim. sounds like a pretty good draw.

I wired mine directly into the 12 volt exterior porch light. I'm willing to bet it's a very low amperage drawl Probably in the milli amps if I were to guess. You do not have to use the 110 adapter because it only converts it to 9-12 volts. I'm sure if you contact Boogey they can give you the actual specs. I emailed them and they were really prompt with their answer. I think I emailed on Sunday and they responded on Monday A.m.


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[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by max2bob

does anyone know how many amps the boogey light kit draws? we dry camp a lot and only have one battery on the small camper. I am on their website and cant find the amperage draw but they mention if you are plugged in to 110v and only have a singe stage converter, it cant keep up with the lights and they will dim. sounds like a pretty good draw.

I found this on a led strip site.

Because there are three LEDs in series, you cannot drive these LEDs from a 5V supply. The LED strips say "+12V" on them to mark the anode and that's the maximum voltage we suggest. We've found that if you're ok with them being a little dimmer, even 9VDC works very well.

Each segment of 3 LEDs draws approximately 20 milliAmperes from a 12V supply, per string of LEDs. So for each segment, there is a maximum 20mA draw from the red LEDs, 20mA draw from the green and 20mA from the blue. If you have the LED strip on full white (all LEDs lit) that would be 60mA per segment.

To find the total maximum current draw per meter, we would multiply 60mA x 10 (ten segments per meter for the 30/LED per meter strip) = 0.6 Amps per meter OR 60mA x 20 (twenty segments per meter for the 60/LED per meter strip) = 1.2 Amps per meter. Again, that's assuming you would have all the LEDs on at once and that you are powering it from 12V. If you're going to be PWM-fading between colors, maybe 1/2 of that is what you'll be drawing. Still, you do need to have a fairly decent power supply to run this strip, all those LEDs add up!


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[max2bob]

ok, they do have it listed. full power on white is 3.5 amps and single color is 2.6 amps. more than I would have thought but the controller probably takes a little also.

[max2bob]

thanks polecat28328 for the quick response. that explains why a single color does not draw as much. my awning is only 10 feet so my draw would be lower and with those numbers I can calculate it.

[xcav8er]

Originally Posted by Polecat28328

That's exactly what I did. But behind my outside light was the cabinetry in my camper. I did drill 2 small holes inside of the exterior of my camper. One at the end of the led lights which came inside in the upper bunk. Routed my wires through the cabinets over the dinette and just lucked out and the exterior light actually is on the outside of my cabinets.


So pretty much none of my wiring is on the exterior. All of my wiring is interior. I figured it would be easier and less worries


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unfortunately the porch light switch on mine is on the wall, not the cabinet. Im also trying to avoid drilling a hole in the side. if i had a smooth fiberglass exterior i would probably just stick a small peice of channel running from the porch light up to the leds to secure the wires but im not sure that would work on the uneven aluminum surface. any suggestions?
I guess I'll have to splice into the porch light wires to get power.

[Polecat28328]

Originally Posted by xcav8er

unfortunately the porch light switch on mine is on the wall, not the cabinet. Im also trying to avoid drilling a hole in the side. if i had a smooth fiberglass exterior i would probably just stick a small peice of channel running from the porch light up to the leds to secure the wires but im not sure that would work on the uneven aluminum surface. any suggestions?

I guess I'll have to splice into the porch light wires to get power.

I sent you some pictures of my install in messenger. You can use 16 gauge t splices inside the porch light. L


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