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Old 02-28-2016, 08:17 AM   #31
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Good job! Your sub panel looks very clean and very well laid out. Provides a good visual template for others that may be planning something similar. Hope the rest of your install goes as smoothly!
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:32 AM   #32
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VERY NICE JOB!

Don

Thanks! I am returning the feed through terminals and will make a combiner box using a 4 x 4 x 2 weatherproof enclosure, two ground bars with seven terminals and plastic bar stock. PG9 cable glands will be used to seal the wire entry points.

I will also transition the 4 AWG welding cable to 4 AWG strand wire before entry into the enclosure for a more secure termination.


How much spacing should there be from the air conditioner? Also, what is the minimum distance should there be between the solar panel and the street-side edge of the roof?
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:05 AM   #33
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How much spacing should there be from the air conditioner? Also, what is the minimum distance should there be between the solar panel and the street-side edge of the roof?
My SOLAR panel is mounted 20" from the AC unit and about 12" from the rear roof vent. Click on my SOLAR album below to see the location) During the peak sunny hours this is not going to be an issue, as the shade would start to cover the SOLAR panel in the late afternoon (about 5 in the summer months). Our seasonal spot we face north, so there is no issue with shade from the AC/vent, but we do have a tree that starts around 4ish. No real cut in SOLAR power. As for how close to the end of the TT the panel can be mounted. I would keep it in at least 6" to keep it away from any air turbulence (along the side of the TT) that may be generated while traveling. No other reason other than that.

Don
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250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
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EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:08 PM   #34
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Okay, the 4 AWG welding cable has been run from the roof to the sub panel via the refrigerator vent. I also ran the remote cables for the charge controller remote and the inverter remote.

The run from the roof to the sub panel battery terminal connections is 25 feet. There is a foot or two of slack in the water heater compartment.



Prepped for next time...




Wires make their way down from the vent and into a pre-existing hole. Once I am done wiring in the remotes, the hole will be filled with spray foam...





The wires continue under the couch and ultimately through the water heater compartment...





The wood panel is notched at the upper right corner of the divider between the water heater compartment and the front storage...





The pre-existing gap in the wood framing at the front left corner of the drawer compartment is notched a little more...





Cables from roof are now connected to the sub panel...


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Old 02-28-2016, 06:23 PM   #35
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So you don't really have to put a fuse or breaker after the panels?
It's just one of those "just in case" things.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:47 PM   #36
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So you don't really have to put a fuse or breaker after the panels?
It's just one of those "just in case" things.

I do plan on installing a 30A MC4 inline fuse.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:19 AM   #37
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If this weekend's weather cooperates, I will likely install the panels then. So far, I have about 12 hours in this project.

I am going to place the panels on either side of the air conditioner within six inches of the street-side roof edge. I will use composite shims under the mounts where needed due to the curvature of the roof.
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:34 PM   #38
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Just a question... will you have enough room on the roof to walk from the back of the TT, or will the installation keep you from the front part of the roof? Pretty much the 6" on the sides will not allow you to walk that way.

Don
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2013 Jayco Eagle 284BHS
250Watt Grape Solar Panel, MorningStar MPPT 60 Charge Controller
1500 Watt Ramsond PSI, 2 Trojan T145 Batteries (260Ah)
2 - AirSight Wireless IP Cameras (used as rear view cameras)
EnGenius WI-FI extender, D-Link wireless (n) modem
MagicJack Internet Phone
2012 Ford F150XLT, EcoBoost w/3.73
157" Wheel base, HD Towing Package

Our Solar Album https://www.jaycoowners.com/album.php?albumid=329
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:35 PM   #39
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Just a question... will you have enough room on the roof to walk from the back of the TT, or will the installation keep you from the front part of the roof? Pretty much the 6" on the sides will not allow you to walk that way.

Don


Don,

Right now, my thought is to have both 39 x 39.5 inch panels on the curb-side half of the roof as viewed from front to back. My plan is to park the trailer so that the curb-side is facing south and to take advantage of the curvature of the roof to get a slight angle pointed at the sun. I misspoke above re street-side - sorry! The panels would also be seen as placed on either side of the antenna in the lowered position.

I can also put both panels side-by-side up front; but, I started thinking about putting another 53 lbs. up front.

I plan on using a ladder to access the roof via the street-side. I have read the some hybrid owners pop-out the rear bed and hoist themselves up from the rear bed platform. There would still be an access point at the right rear corner and then a quick crossover to the left to walk to the front on the street-side of the roof.

Is there something that I am missing?
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2013 Jayco X23B
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DC System: Trojan T-105 225 AH/Samlex PST-600 PSW
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:03 AM   #40
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I installed the remotes.

Used in the install were a Leviton dual gang surface mount box (1.89" depth), Amazon Link, for the Tristar remote and a Leviton single gang surface mount box (1.89" depth), Amazon Link, with a matching Leviton blank cover, Amanzon Link, for the inverter remote.

The Tristar remote is made to be fitted in a dual gang box. YMMV with an inverter remote. I used my Dremel to cut a recess hole on the blank cover for the inverter remote for a flush fit on the cover plate.

I took this approach to avoid cutting unseemly holes in the wall. Instead, I cut 1" holes with a hole saw, which were then fitted with a grommet. In this way, if the trailer is sold or traded without the remotes, etc., a cover can be neatly fitted in the grommet.

Tip: when looking inside the refrigerator access, the first 2 x 2 on the left wall is roughly in line with the bottom of the window behind the couch, which is about a foot below the thermostat on a 2013 model. This means having to be mindful of the 2 x 2 above when drilling any holes. When drilling a hole below the thermostat, be mindful of the thermostat wires and drill with a soft touch to just break through. I missed my wires by less than a quarter of an inch.

I used two inch spacing to provide a two inch gap between the thermostat and the gang boxes.

Otherwise, I am waiting on a few more bits for the the combiner box and warmer weather to get closer to completion.











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