Replaced the JayCommand display with a controller

[NoFly]

Originally Posted by gobdeep

Do you already have the BMpro/JayCommand/RVGenius hardware or are you looking to add it from scratch?

For me, JayCommand and solar came with our unit so for me it is the cost of the addons only. I could see doing this from scratch being costly.

So I'm interested in snagging this device from GoPower (well, eTrailer). Looks like I need to build a CANBUS cable. Easy enough, but I need to figure out the 4 pin CANBUS plug size and find one that fits the JayCommand unit.

Any ideas?

I have the entire system already, to include (1) 100 watt panel on the roof. As far as I can tell from the email with GoPower, I don't have the required mppt RV-C controller, so I'll also need to order that.

As for the canbus cable, I have an extra one I found laying on the floor by my Jaycommand system. I can take pics and measurements of the connector and post it here. Although, I have 2 canbus ports on my Jaycommand, but their both being used for something... That's something I'll need to figure out, what's being used already.

Tom, excellent info on the Victron and GoPower being identical. I'll definitely keep what I have instead of redoing the entire system.
Additionally, thank you for the link to the article on solar; the video at that link was really helpful on understanding this more in-depth.

I'll have to admit, this is all new for me, I'm trying to understand everything about this.... Some of it makes my head hurt, but I just take a break and then come back to it

I'm thinking I'll be looking at putting the panels in series as I upgrade to new panels, as running in parallel sounds like I'll need to drill new holes and run all new wires to add the next batch of panels. If that's not the case, correct me...

Thanks allot for all of this guys!... This really helps to understand this more!

[NoFly]

As a side note, (temp specific) as you can see, tonight will not be "Beach weather", so we'll see how well I do and not freezing tonight!

[TomC_AZ]

There are times Im glad I live in AZ

No extra holes needed, unless you need more cables for another controller etc.. For parallel these are the type of connecters you would use to connect multiple panels. (there are also ones like this with split wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7J9PNL...ding=UTF8&th=1

For serial you would just use the panel wires and extensions if need to link them all together + to - till you got back to the roof connection. Again, unless you go over the volts, wattage or amp (or combo of them) of the controller no additional hole needed.

On the trailer and extra insulation you added, which trailer model do you have? Assuming it has a "sealed" bottom (plastic material). Did you just put fiberglass type from Home Depot or something else?

[NoFly]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

There are times Im glad I live in AZ

No extra holes needed, unless you need more cables for another controller etc.. For parallel these are the type of connecters you would use to connect multiple panels. (there are also ones like this with split wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7J9PNL...ding=UTF8&th=1

For serial you would just use the panel wires and extensions if need to link them all together + to - till you got back to the roof connection. Again, unless you go over the volts, wattage or amp (or combo of them) of the controller no additional hole needed.

On the trailer and extra insulation you added, which trailer model do you have? Assuming it has a "sealed" bottom (plastic material). Did you just put fiberglass type from Home Depot or something else?

Perfect info on the connectors.. Thank you Tom..

I have a '20 Pinnacle 37MDQS.

Yes, sealed and heated underbelly. But I'll tell you, that statement doesn't mean anything to me anymore, since I removed the entire underbelly to see what's under their.

Yes, I installed R-30 unfaced insulation in the entire underbelly. The next step will be to add expanding spay foam to everything protruding the underbelly, as well as all the holes in the frame where the hydraulic lines come through. Then I'll tape the seams of the underbelly and the frame rail, so everything is completely sealed off.

Here's the advantage, which doesn't just apply to us in the colder states. The underbelly is so weakly sealed, any and all outdoor temps, dust, rodents, insects can and will come directly into the living space of the rig.
If you have any Maxair fans or range hood in your rig, you will be sucking air in from the basement (unless you crack a window) and into the rig. The air in the basement (pass-through) comes directly from the underbelly area.

Not only will sealing and insulating help keep you warm in the cold, it'll keep you cooler and your AC not have to work as hard, in the hotter climates.... Not to mention, keeping unwanted guests out of your rig..

[NoFly]

Gobdeep,

Just watched this video from "Changing Lanes"on YT. He explains some very good points when it comes to the difference between GoPower and Victron.... After watching it, I think I'm set on planning on fitting the rig with the Victron charge controllers and the inverter.... Of course, setting up the battery bank will probably need to come first...

Just thought I'd share this..

[NoFly]

.... Moron...I forgot the link.

https://youtu.be/g2g8dDxAumE

[gobdeep]

Originally Posted by NoFly

.... Moron...I forgot the link.

https://youtu.be/g2g8dDxAumE

Hey, who you calling a moron!? j/k

Yeah, I like Changing Lanes. BTBRV, Keep Your Daydream, and others. Really good reviews.

I'll update here once that GoPower unit comes in.

[NoFly]

Originally Posted by gobdeep

Hey, who you calling a moron!? j/k

Yeah, I like Changing Lanes. BTBRV, Keep Your Daydream, and others. Really good reviews.

I'll update here once that GoPower unit comes in.

Sounds like a plan... Hopefully etrailer actually has those controllers in stock. GoPower's site says they'll start shipping them in Q1 '22...

After watching Chad's (Changing Lanes) video about the Victron, I'm really curious on what the total cost of that setup is going to be... It may be cool to have it all, but it also has to have a decent "return on investment" to make it worth it...

Sometimes I have to remember what my goal is, so I don't go down too many rabbit holes... Otherwise I get lost and then I don't get a damn thing done

[NoFly]

Well well... So much for a "fully" insulated underbelly on the 2020 pinnacle

The first pic will show the 2" duct that is mounted between the front black and grey tanks... Well, that vent only reaches to the first 6 inches of a 6 foot tank.... Can't say it'll do much, as both my tanks were frozen in the front..

2nd pic will show the gap between the corrugated belly and the subfloor. The insulation on the right is what I'm installing... The gap is otherwise wide open except for the reflexex.

3rd pic will show the entire rear of the rig area behind the fresh water tank (prior to me installing insulation)

As a side note, the open underbelly wouldn't be all that bad if there weren't large holes in the frame for the hydraulic lines for the leveling gear.

Insult to injury; these large open holes are on both sides of the fresh water tanks

[JuniperMS]

I opened the underbelly of our Whitehawk to run some 10AWG wire and there was no insulation either. To make matters worse, Jayco decided to run the heater vent hoses under the kitchen gray tank. So, gray tank gets full and sags down and crushes the heater hose.

[NoFly]

Originally Posted by JuniperMS

I opened the underbelly of our Whitehawk to run some 10AWG wire and there was no insulation either. To make matters worse, Jayco decided to run the heater vent hoses under the kitchen gray tank. So, gray tank gets full and sags down and crushes the heater hose.

Juniper, the real world, certainly doesn't match the design/architecture world, does it!...

I'm going to dropping the underbelly again today to install the last 2 heater pads today.. when I do, I'll now need to look at the 2" heat pipe going to the front tanks (pictured above). Because yesterday I took a temp reading of the heat coming from that duct, and there virtually wasn't any heat coming out of it.... So now I'll need to see if mine is crushed like yours was..

Thanks for posting this!

[TomC_AZ]

NoFly, I was thinking about this and the other posts you had do you have any "skirting" for around the trailer? Or are you not staying in a single location long enough? I saw these and made me think about it.. https://www.airskirts.com/

[gobdeep]

Alright. I pulled the second CANBUS plug out, the one with a resistor across pins 2 and 3 (CAN HIGH and CAN LOW).

I snagged a free "sample" plug from TE.com, item 1969603-4 4P RCPT VAL-U-LOK GW but it does not fit due to plug orientation. The size was spot on.

Digging through TE's 600+ results for 4-pin plug, I think I found it. Check my findings?

MATE-N-LOK TE #172338-1. https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-172338-1.html
It could also be MATE-N-LOK TE #794805-1. https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-794805-1.html

I'm going to snag both.

[TomC_AZ]

Im not sure which is more impressive the finding the needle in the haystack of the plug or the haystack of the web site! Great work!

You dont mention which plug in the picture is the correct one from the system but looking at the diagram and the plugs it looks to be the one on the left. If that is correct then part 172338-1 looks to be the correct one. Let us know!

Have you heard anything about the charger from eTrailer?

[gobdeep]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

Im not sure which is more impressive the finding the needle in the haystack of the plug or the haystack of the web site! Great work!

You dont mention which plug in the picture is the correct one from the system but looking at the diagram and the plugs it looks to be the one on the left. If that is correct then part 172338-1 looks to be the correct one. Let us know!

Have you heard anything about the charger from eTrailer?

Whoops. Yeah, the plug on the left is the existing plug. I'm good at finding needles in a haystack... or a needle in a stack of needles. Been doing that professionally for 14 years now.

RE: eTrailer GP72RR - looks like the estimated ship date is 12 February 2022 and should arrive here 17 February 2022. I'll crack it open when it arrives too. I might some helpful intel printed on the PCB boards.

[NoFly]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

NoFly, I was thinking about this and the other posts you had do you have any "skirting" for around the trailer? Or are you not staying in a single location long enough? I saw these and made me think about it.. https://www.airskirts.com/

Hey Tom, yeah, currently we're full-time and in Wisconsin. In August we're finally hitting the road full-time, and can't wait. (Ironic that you sent this) We ordered the AirSkirts 3 weeks ago, and they just showed up last Friday....I did have vinyl skirting before they came, and I'll tell you, their TOTALLY worth the money!!! My basement (pass-through) normally ranged between 33°-50° with the thermostat set to 73°. But now that I have the AirSkirts installed, and the underbelly is FINALLY done, the basement is between 65°-81° with the thermostat set at 70°!!

Gobdeep, you sir, certainly have a great deal of patience! I should have posted this before, but this is a pic of the spare buscan plug I found laying by the Jaycommand..

[NoFly]

Don't know if this would help at all, but the pic sucks... Here's the part number
#HNS13214-1
Rev. B
Date: 10/23/2019

[gobdeep]

Greetings from the king's moat.

Well, I have good news and great news! The GoPower 30 amp MPPT solar controller arrived AND my TE connections arrived AND they fit without issue. Never been luckier - time to buy a lottery ticket.

Alright, for the RVC/CANBUS cable on the GoPower controller you will need:

• 1x TE 1969603-4 "4P RCPT VAL-U-LOK GW" connector https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1969603-4.html

• 4x TE 770988-3 "CONN SOCKET 18-22 AWG GOLD CRIMP" plug https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-770988-3.html

For the RVC/CANBUS cable on the JayCommand/BMPro device, you will need:

• 1x TE 794805-1 "CONN PLUG 4POS SEALED MINI UMNL" connector https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-79...e=header-match

• 4x TE 770988-3 "CONN SOCKET 18-22 AWG GOLD CRIMP" plug https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-770988-3.html (same as above)

Note that the GoPower RVC connector uses vertically-aligned holes (1969603-4) whereas the JayCommand/BMPro RVC connector uses horizontally-aligned holes (794805-1).

High-res photos attached below due to post maximums. No resizing - zoom away my friends.

[gobdeep]

Re-uploading the pics because every single one was sideways.

[gobdeep]

JayCommand unit.