Solar panel roof install question.

[gonzor57]

So I bought a Renogy 200W kit. Thought that I might use C channels, and hinges on both sides of the panels, possibly with removable pins so I can raise the panels to attain maximum exposure.


Any positive or negative thoughts?
TY!



2017 24RBS

[Kevin Cooper]

For 200 watts, I’m thinking it’s not worth the cost, or the trouble of getting on the roof twice every time you want to get a few more watts. RV roofs are not made to be walked on a lot.

[RogerR]

I installed mine with the provided legs and they have not failed me as I travel mostly in Colorado and surrounding areas and shade is not that bad. Also, demand is the driver and I primarily use 12 volts for lights, pump and furnace so I have seen my lithium back full every day with 200 watts of solar.

I agree that unless you park some where for a long time getting on the roof and adjusting them would be a lot of work. I want to spend my time hiking, etc.

[ARoamer]

My thoughts. Yes, much more power produced if pointed directly into the sun. Our flat mounted panels output roughly 1/3 less in the winter due to low sun angle. Not all campsites allow proper orientation for a 2 way tilt, and a 4 way tilt would be complicated and heavier. Trees can be a issue also. You could lay them out on the ground and use them awhile to check if performance is adequate before investing time and $ on a tilt system you might not use. Possible options- Make a stand and use them as portables. If output isn't enough, mount them flat and purchase another panel as a portable. Or buy another panel and flat mount it with the others to make up the loss.

[dvspl]

Originally Posted by ARoamer

My thoughts. Yes, much more power produced if pointed directly into the sun. Our flat mounted panels output roughly 1/3 less in the winter due to low sun angle. Not all campsites allow proper orientation for a 2 way tilt, and a 4 way tilt would be complicated and heavier. Trees can be a issue also. You could lay them out on the ground and use them awhile to check if performance is adequate before investing time and $ on a tilt system you might not use. Possible options- Make a stand and use them as portables. If output isn't enough, mount them flat and purchase another panel as a portable. Or buy another panel and flat mount it with the others to make up the loss.

I don't have any solar panels yet, but have been researching the possibilities. I'm old enough to avoid climbing on the roof unless I have to. When I do put solar on the roof, I'll just buy more than I had planned and leave them flat all the time. Extra panels are cheap enough that it's not worth the time/trouble to try tilting them, in my opinion.

[retroboy1989]

Originally Posted by dvspl

I don't have any solar panels yet, but have been researching the possibilities. I'm old enough to avoid climbing on the roof unless I have to. When I do put solar on the roof, I'll just buy more than I had planned and leave them flat all the time. Extra panels are cheap enough that it's not worth the time/trouble to try tilting them, in my opinion.

I don't have a ladder or a desire to get on my roof. I went with 400w mounted flat to make up for the less-than-optimal mounting orientation. Two in the front, two in the rear. Series wiring in pairs, parallel for the two sets for about 40V and 10A PV.

After a night of heavy use, my batteries are back to float by lunch.

[Rihana]

Did you figure it out? It sounds like a smart plan for your portable solar panel setup. Using C channels, hinges, and removable pins can offer flexibility and adjustability for maximizing sun exposure. This setup can allow you to adapt to different conditions and optimize energy generation. Just ensure that the hinges and pins are sturdy and the panels are securely attached to mitigate any potential drawbacks.

[gonzor57]

Thanks for your thoughts/replies. I am going with fixed mounts directly on the roof, I'm in agreement about doing more hiking and less stair climbing. I have 4 6V agm batteries that will be installed on the rear corner where the sink/stove are and will eliminate the front battery. Going to connect in series as two 12v and separated with a switch (B1-off-B2), that way I have extra AH to use. Still in the process of figuring out a few more things. Gotta contact Renogy (solar questions) and Jayco (wire schematics).

[gonzor57]

Short video of an install on a Jayco. 10 panels. In another video it shows an AC mod, replaced roof unit with a split mounted in the rear.
https://youtu.be/50Lbt-q9Cys?si=Q6vlcWTZCYyIDMek

[Semix-Hex]

I'm replacing my flat install with tilt ups. It is very easy to see the difference between my ground array with my roof mounts in terms of efficiency.
I have a ground mount for winter and shaded areas.

[440 scout]

Originally Posted by gonzor57

Short video of an install on a Jayco. 10 panels. In another video it shows an AC mod, replaced roof unit with a split mounted in the rear.
https://youtu.be/50Lbt-q9Cys?si=Q6vlcWTZCYyIDMek

How many amps is that Renogy charge controller rated for? Your 200 watts of solar can produce around 10 amps. That information should be on sticker on the back of the solar panels, take a pic for future reference. So, if your charge controller is 20 amps then you could add another 200 watts and if your camper roof is curved to each side you could mount the panels on each side so you might have a greater chance of gathering more sun. Most people on the forums agree that if you've got at least 400 watts of solar you are golden. So if you have a good size solar array on the roof, you don't need those tilting devices and your roof membrane will appreciate it.

[gonzor57]

Originally Posted by 440 scout

How many amps is that Renogy charge controller rated for? Your 200 watts of solar can produce around 10 amps. That information should be on sticker on the back of the solar panels, take a pic for future reference. So, if your charge controller is 20 amps then you could add another 200 watts and if your camper roof is curved to each side you could mount the panels on each side so you might have a greater chance of gathering more sun. Most people on the forums agree that if you've got at least 400 watts of solar you are golden. So if you have a good size solar array on the roof, you don't need those tilting devices and your roof membrane will appreciate it.

I will end up with 4 x 100w panels on strut channels, found a good deal at a Home Depot, $22 and change per each, got 4, they're powder coated. I'm still unsure if I want to use the tilt mounts, I already bought them. The only thing I'm thinking of is how much drag would there be as the tilts will make the distance from the roof a few more inches, haven't measured yet. Maybe add some sort of a "air dam" in front of the first panel? Nah! Probably too much trouble.

My controller is PWM and capacity is 30a so I can add at least two more panels later on.

[Nailzscott]

New Jayco Owner and new to the forum - so I apologize for jumping in here but you folks seem to be knowledgeable about solar so - here goes.

My new Jay Feather 25RB came with a 200w solar roof panel. It seems to be doing fine at keeping the battery charged in the winter down time but we have a place we go camping 2x a year that has no power. I take a small generator with us that I can use if needed, but my question is about adding a supplemental portable solar panel setup to be used when needed. With a 12v fridge, I'm thinking it might help.

Is there any problem with hooking up a portable solar system straight to the battery?

I probably should have had the camper ordered with another panel but am not thrilled about having another one added to the roof now. And I wouldn't need the second system often.

Thanks

[440 scout]

Originally Posted by Nailzscott

New Jayco Owner and new to the forum - so I apologize for jumping in here but you folks seem to be knowledgeable about solar so - here goes.

My new Jay Feather 25RB came with a 200w solar roof panel. It seems to be doing fine at keeping the battery charged in the winter down time but we have a place we go camping 2x a year that has no power. I take a small generator with us that I can use if needed, but my question is about adding a supplemental portable solar panel setup to be used when needed. With a 12v fridge, I'm thinking it might help.

Is there any problem with hooking up a portable solar system straight to the battery?

I probably should have had the camper ordered with another panel but am not thrilled about having another one added to the roof now. And I wouldn't need the second system often.

Thanks

Yes you can add another panel but it should not be connected directly to the battery because it could overcharge it. A solar charge controller manages the charge to the battery and won't allow overcharge. There are several inexpensive solar charge controllers available on Amazon starting at around $20. Most of them have fair to ok reviews.

[TomC_AZ]

@Nailzscott,
Adding an external panel would be no problem, as long as it has its own controller. As far as I know they still do not wire the external connecter through the existing solar charge controller thus the reason for a separate controller on the portable panel. The other option is to add one additional 200w on the roof and wire it right in to the existing. The controller should easily handle that.

With this said, if there is cloudy/rainy weather you still may need the generator so keep that in mind.

[Nailzscott]

Thanks

[Nailzscott]

@TomC

An additional panel to the roof probably doesn't work for me since this place I go to that has no power is during the summer when it's pretty hot - so we park where it's shady for part of the day. A portable solar setup with a controller should allow me to position a portable unit out in the sunny area a few feet away.

If anyone already has one of the portable units and would like to share their experience with it - I'd love to hear from you.

[Isaacs]

If you want, you may be able to simply wire your portable panel into the existing controller at the same place where your rooftop panel connects. If your existing controller is rated for only 20 amps then you will need either a larger controller or a stand alone one for the portable panel. Remember: watts divided by 12 = amps.

I ran a permanent wire from my controller input to the tongue of the trailer where it just hangs with an automotive plug on the end of it to hook up a portable. #12 Landscaping wire is great for this stuff--lots cheaper and easier to run than the typical single conductor solar wire.

https://www.amazon.com/TUOFENG-12-La...6&sr=8-50&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-16-...%2C122&sr=8-36

Lowes may sell the wire by the foot.

The connector is probably available at a local automotive supply. Don't worry about the fact that it's only #16 wire--that's fine for that short distance. Crimp splices and shrink tubing will hook everything up; watch out for your polarity!

[Nailzscott]

I don't think I want to run new wiring. The RV being brand new, the belly being covered, and the existing controller is installed inside a wall near the rear - all lead me back to a standalone setup with it's own controller that I can just take along on the very few trips I take where the added solar might be used.

I just hope to find something reasonable to meet my needs.

Thanks

[aigochamaloh]

Originally Posted by Nailzscott

I don't think I want to run new wiring. The RV being brand new, the belly being covered, and the existing controller is installed inside a wall near the rear - all lead me back to a standalone setup with it's own controller that I can just take along on the very few trips I take where the added solar might be used.

I just hope to find something reasonable to meet my needs.

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748FYFSK...t_details&th=1


I added a second battery in parallel with the existing, and wired my portable panel with controller onto that second battery.