WD Setup: Weight or Height

[bakeras]

It seems to me that WD hitch setup according to instructions (I have Equal-i-zer) is to use the front axle body height measurements. Will this put the weight back on the front axle correctly, or should scale weights be used for final adjustment of the hitch setup?

On my rig, the setup from the dealer put me 200 lb light on the front axle when fully loaded up. I moved the WD brackets up a bolt and this put me back to equal front axle weight as without the trailer. I didn't measure the height, but I am planning on doing so soon.

[Camper_bob]

The height measurement is just to get you "in the ballpark". You are not going to be setting up the hitch on a scale, so you have to have some way to get close without the scale. Then you weigh the setup and fine-tune. The scale is the real number you want to go by.

Remember, the goal is to return the front axle as close to unhitched weight as possible while keeping the trailer level or slightly nose-down.

[bakeras]

That was my impression. Does anyone ever go out of the recommended height specs after making a weight adjustment to be too nose up or too nose down?

[need-a-vacation]

Some have posted that they will transfer a little more weight to the fa than the tv only fa weight, maybe up to 100lbs or so. That is only something you can decide if it is right for you and your set up or not. Most seem to follow the manufactures guide by transferring the lost weight back to the fa.

When you raised the tongue brackets up, make sure the bars are possibly going to interfere with the trailer tongue. If needed, you can lower the brackets back down a hole, and add a washer to the hitch head for a little more tilt. Per Equal-I-Zer adding a washer will give you about the same results as raising the brackets a hole.

Only being about 200lbs off once loaded is pretty darn close I would say for the dealer set up!!!

Good luck and keep us posted!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

The height measurement is just to get you "in the ballpark".........snip......Then you weigh the setup and fine-tune. The scale is the real number you want to go by.

Remember, the goal is to return the front axle as close to unhitched weight as possible while keeping the trailer level or slightly nose-down.

X2

Bob

[Camper_bob]

One thing you don't want to do is transfer too much weight to the FA. 100 lbs, probably fine, but I wouldn't go much more than that.

While it is unlikely for a reasonable person, it is technically possible to transfer TOO MUCH weight and actually take too much weight off the rear axle. This is a VERY dangerous situation. That's the only fear I would have returning MORE than unloaded weight back to the front. Of course, you want to stay within your axle specifications too, and remember that since the steer axle is also carrying the power plant, it may not be able to take a lot more weight than it already has.

As far as the weight adjustment you mention, I'm not sure I understand which specs you're talking about? Are you asking if the height of the coupler and thus the level of the trailer changes with adjustments in weight transfer?

Yes it can. One of the common misconceptions about WDH is that it is used to level the tow vehicle. So, many people are trying to use the WDH spring bars to get their truck to be LEVEL front to rear, thus changing the height of the hitch and subsequently the level of the trailer. So, yes, adjustments to weight transfer do change the height of the trailer tongue. But remember, that's not the goal. You want the trailer to be level (or slightly nose down) and the lost weight returned to the steer axle of the tow vehicle. The rear "squat" of the tow vehicle is what it is.

So, with that being said, depending on the instructions on your hitch, you set the trailer level and adjust the ball mount to be the same height, or whatever the manufacturer instructions state (Blue Ox Sway Pro says "The ball height needs to be the same or 1” higher than the trailer coupler height, adjust as necessary.") So, then you can expect the rear of the truck to drop 1-2" when hitched with WDH engaged, giving you either a level attitude or slightly nose down. If the trailer has too much nose down attitude, you need to adjust. Same if the trailer has a nose up attitude (you would rather be slightly nose down than nose up).

Anyway, I hope that helps. I had to study this stuff a lot when I first started out, and I've been studying it a lot MORE now that I'm getting a different hitch.