Bearing and Races Installation/Brass Punch

[travelingjw]

First time I ever replaces races. I used a brass punch to seat them against the lip. First time using brass punches for this type of use. I think the next time I will purhcase an installation tool as it would seem to be easier.

For those whom have ever used a brass punch, so you just continue to grind and reshape after use. My edges are destroyed.

[JaycoMLOK]

Here's a tip to make it easier next time. Put you races in the freezer for a half hour or so before installing.

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by travelingjw

First time I ever replaces races. I used a brass punch to seat them against the lip. First time using brass punches for this type of use. I think the next time I will purhcase an installation tool as it would seem to be easier.

For those whom have ever used a brass punch, so you just continue to grind and reshape after use. My edges are destroyed.

I've always used a brass drift. It's about 8" long, and 1/2" diameter. I 'roll' the drift around as I'm tapping them in. I've never reground it to my recollection. It's so old, I don't even remember where I got it.

[Screwby]

Yes, I reshape my brass punches if they start mushrooming too bad. I purchased the bearing and race punch kit and it was worth its weight in gold the next time I did the job. You can purchase a cheap kit from an auto parts store and get the grease seal puller too, saves a lot of cussing and frustration.

[GuanoJuano]

I ground down the old race so it fit loosely and used that to pound on and line the new one in. Then I hung that on a peg for next time.

[RedHorse1]

Many of the auto part chains have a loan-a-tool program and will likely have a race driver available. HF also has one that’s pretty affordable.

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

Many of the auto part chains have a loan-a-tool program and will likely have a race driver available. HF also has one that’s pretty affordable.

I bought the HF one and was surprised how well it was built. The grease seal puller was from NAPA and was only like $12 and way easier than using punches and flat screwdrivers risking damage to the hub.

[Lake Huron]

I've done the races in the freezer trick too. Works well. Much easier to put in and doesn't damage the end of the punch either.

[Mopar_Earl]

Race driver sets are much easier, especially if you use an air hammer attachment. Drifts can slip and score the race. Air hammer with a flat punch drives the old ones out quickly.


Earl

[JaycoMLOK]

Another tip for removal. If you have one that’s stuck bad take a wire welder and weld a bead around the inside of the race in the middle. Let it cool for about 10 mins and it will almost fall out. I do this quite often on large diameter race in blind fits up to 14”to 15” dia.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by JaycoMLOK

Here's a tip to make it easier next time. Put you races in the freezer for a half hour or so before installing.

I use the freezer method but also lay a heat gun to heat the hub up and they usually drop right in with no pressure.