AC quit blowing cold Melbourne 2015

brisath · 07-01-2018, 08:32 AM

The air conditioning worked with the generator going a week ago in 90+ degree and humid. Then we had cold weather and I had it running electric heat for awhile. Now it is back warm again in the 80s and the AC won't blow cold air. The air feels like outside air temp. It is an Airxcel roof unit on my 2015 Melbourne.

Pfflyer · 07-01-2018, 11:27 AM

Is there a separate fuse for the fan and compressor?

RVermont · 07-01-2018, 07:55 PM

Check to be sure your filters are clean. I had the front unit in my seneca stop working. Cleaned the filter and it has worked fine for the past couple months.

brisath · 07-03-2018, 02:18 AM

I checked the fuse box under the bed and those all looked fine but I did not see one labelled for the AC element.the breaker is labeled and not tripped, obviously because it is running and blowing.

I also took the top off of the unit. It is a ceiling mount. Everything looked very clean.

RVermont · 07-03-2018, 04:12 AM

Did you remove and clean the filters? In heavy ac times these might need to be cleaned weekly. Run them under water and let dry. With the filters out look at the baffles between the intake and discharge. Make sure they are sealed. Sometimes this can be knocked out and the air mixes and you don’t get any heat transfer. Inspect cooling fins and vacuum if they appear dirty

Do you hear the compressor cycle on? Do you have good 110 power?

brisath · 07-03-2018, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVermont

Did you remove and clean the filters? In heavy ac times these might need to be cleaned weekly. Run them under water and let dry. With the filters out look at the baffles between the intake and discharge. Make sure they are sealed. Sometimes this can be knocked out and the air mixes and you don’t get any heat transfer. Inspect cooling fins and vacuum if they appear dirty

Do you hear the compressor cycle on? Do you have good 110 power?

I find some foam filters where air comes out but I'm not finding any other filters on the unit.

I can't remember what the compressor sounds like when it goes on. Tried listening for it and didn't catch anything I different after it blew air awhile. The generator is doing well powering evertginf else though.

RVermont · 07-03-2018, 09:05 AM

Normally the filter is on the intake Check the ac manual. The intake filters need to be cleaned. If they are restricted the coils can freeze up and you will get poor heat transfer. Can you post a photo of the ac unit.

RVermont · 07-03-2018, 09:25 AM

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This is a photo of my unit and the filter that needs to be cleaned periodically.

Love To Travel 2 · 07-03-2018, 01:57 PM

We had a similar issue with the A/C in our 29MV. It blew warm air and wouldn't get cold. We have two ways to check the amps in our coach, a gauge on the wall next to the thermostat and a PI EMS outside. Each time I turned the A/C on, I watched the amps, which maxed out at 3 or 4. I knew that if the compressor was running, the amps would be around 15 or 16. So I figured with my luck, the compressor was bad.

We took it to the nearest Jayco Authorized Dealer who diagnosed the problem as a bad thermostat. A new thermostat was ordered, installed, and the problem was corrected. Now every time I fire up the A/C I watch the amps to make sure it runs around 16 which should be normal.

brisath · 07-04-2018, 10:47 AM

Thanks for the filter pictures. They're clean on my unit.

Regarding the thermostat, is that the wall mount or a separate one on the uni?. It seems my compressor isn't turning on.

Love To Travel 2 · 07-04-2018, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brisath

Thanks for the filter pictures. They're clean on my unit.

Regarding the thermostat, is that the wall mount or a separate one on the uni?. It seems my compressor isn't turning on.

The thermostat is on the wall. It is quite small, maybe 3" high by 1" wide by 1/2" deep. It controls the fan, A/C, and heat (gas and electric heat pump).

Marcm157 · 07-04-2018, 08:14 PM

Could be a bad run capacitor. If you are handy with a meter its an easy diagnosis and easy swap.

brisath · 07-06-2018, 10:21 PM

I pulled the cover off the thermostat and found a fuse in there but that was good.

Plugged into power the AC isn't blowing cold and I'm not hearing any changes like an element turning on but I can't remember what that sounded like when it was working.

So at this point I'm not sure what to do next. The service manual is pitiful and the diagrams don't even look like the model I have.

Love To Travel 2 · 07-07-2018, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brisath

I pulled the cover off the thermostat and found a fuse in there but that was good.

Plugged into power the AC isn't blowing cold and I'm not hearing any changes like an element turning on but I can't remember what that sounded like when it was working.

So at this point I'm not sure what to do next. The service manual is pitiful and the diagrams don't even look like the model I have.

I see a couple of options:

1. Bite the bullet and take it to a dealer and have the problem diagnosed. We took ours to the local Jayco Authorized Dealer, which happened to be CW in Savannah, about 40 minutes from home. They figured out the problem in 10-15 minutes. I took the coach home, even used it during the down time, and took it back when the new thermostat arrived. They had it up and running in 15 minutes, so for that part they get a 10. The only negative was that it took 31 days to get the new part (CW requests authorization from Jayco to do the warranty work, Jayco approves the work, CW sends a PO to Jayco for the new part, Jayco orders the part from a 3rd party vendor, the vendor sends the part to Jayco, Jayco sends the part to CW, CW has to verify that it is the correct part before they schedule the appointment, CW can't find the new part, on the 29th day I drive my car to CW to find out what is going on with the words from my wife ringing in my ears, "don't get arrested for disorderly conduct," CW finds the part and verifies that it is correct, CW schedules the appointment for the 31st day and installs the new part). For all of that CW gets a 0.

2. This is just a thought, but do you know a local HVAC tech or company that would be willing to check it for you? Maybe they could diagnose it for you and determine what the problem is. Maybe they could even make the repair since it may not be under warranty.

3. Others may want to add options for you that I can't think of.

Good luck!

brisath · 07-07-2018, 10:20 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'd rather not deal with the dealer 3 hours from me so maybe a local hvac is a good thought. I have a volt meter but not sure the steps. I'd also be willing to try some parts starting with the most likely or easiest on airxcel but need to find parts.

brisath · 07-07-2018, 10:37 AM

The unit is a Coleman Mach HP2 that is under $1000 to get a new one. Looks like run capacitors are $25.

brisath · 07-08-2018, 01:53 PM

Update after some troubleshooting...the condenser is coming on. I can feel it running and it is warm to the touch and after it runs for awhile even hot. The coils/piping aren't getting that cold though, just cool to the touch. The fan is running too so it shouldn't be either of the capacitors. I accessed those and plugs all look good.

This unit does have a high limit switch that says to turn power off for a short time to reset. I've had the powers off several times since the problem started so this should be the issue. This unit is very clean and only has a couple seasons of minimal use but is out of warranty.

Greyhawk1088 · 07-08-2018, 04:00 PM

HI! I know this thread is old but, what was the solution to this problem? I have the exact same symptoms and issue. I talked to a HVAC on the phone who told me it might not have any or enough Freon - RV A/C's are a close system and furthermore I could not find any signs of leaking - this is a 2016 Greyhawk 31 FS - look forward to a reply!

ALJO · 07-08-2018, 04:55 PM

Find an HVAC who will work on RV A/C's, they can install a low and high connection so it is serviceable. Sometimes you find a retired HVAC who still does this kind of work.
I still do.

brisath · 07-08-2018, 06:32 PM

There looks to be a little oil or discoloration on some of the copper tubing on mine, a bit away from the condenser. It is an R-410a freon system which looks to be around $100 for a recharge cylinder alone, so when you add that to adding a valve and still needing to find and fix a leak, it sounds like $900 for a new unit is my best option. I'll start shopping but I hope a new one lasts more than the 3 years this one did only being used a handful of times. At least I would have some spare parts from the old unit.

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