Jumping out the jumper ?

[Johnynorthland]

Hello all.

I got the idea of putting in a toggle switch in my 2019 Redhawk between the momentary jumper switch on the dash. Someone else on the forum has same idea. I’m just throwing this out there to see if anyone has done this? I’m thinking it would allow me to charge both house and chassis batteries at the same time if I’m on shore power, but I’m not sure if this is the right thing to do. I know I can buy a DC2DC charging relay. But this sounds simpler.

[Mahatnmacoat]

The advantage to having a toggle or rocker switch rather than the momentary on button is that with the switch 'on' the shore power and the generator charge both battery banks with out running the engine. When the engine is running it charges both battery banks anyway. Working in our MH the past several days I've been using the genset for power and kept the switch on there by charging both. Very convenient. The other modification I made was to install a duel input battery monitor. It shows the state of charge for both banks in real time. If you take a look at my past posts you'll find several pictures and a good many comments.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Mahatnmacoat

The advantage to having a toggle or rocker switch rather than the momentary on button is that with the switch 'on' the shore power and the generator charge both battery banks with out running the engine. When the engine is running it charges both battery banks anyway. Working in our MH the past several days I've been using the genset for power and kept the switch on there by charging both. Very convenient. The other modification I made was to install a duel input battery monitor. It shows the state of charge for both banks in real time. If you take a look at my past posts you'll find several pictures and a good many comments.

Thank you, how did d you determine which wires to jump out? Just find the 2 12 volt lines? If I remember correctly when I was under my dash doing other work that switch had a large plug on the back with a few wires not just 2.

[Mahatnmacoat]

On my rig, E450 chassis the monetary on switch had four wires leading to the switch, two orange, one yellow and one red. Rather than repeat all the information already posted I suggest you take a look at the recent thread I started on this subject. One respondent gave me a detailed description of which wires went where and how to wire in a lighted rocker switch. I like the lighted switch because I can tell at s glance if it's on. The duel input battery monitor I installed at the same time is also covered in that thread. Both mods have already been very helpful managing the rig.

[Cavie]

the momentary switch prevents you from killing all the batteries and no being able to start the motor to go home.

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Cavie

the momentary switch prevents you from killing all the batteries and no being able to start the motor to go home.

You are correct, but I’m sure that is why he installed the dual battery monitor. I am also quite sure he turns the switch off while camping and unplugged from shore power. Just sayin’.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by gprapim

You are correct, but I’m sure that is why he installed the dual battery monitor. I am also quite sure he turns the switch off while camping and unplugged from shore power. Just sayin’.

Obviously this momentary switch goes to a solenoid, too much amperage going through those wires.

Installing a permanent device like the tric-L-start device sounds like it’s easier to just install it and forget it rather than forgetting to flip a bypass switch and make the alternator cause all kinds of electrical issues, I’m sure.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

Installing a permanent device like the tric-L-start device sounds like it’s easier to just install it and forget it rather than forgetting to flip a bypass switch and make the alternator cause all kinds of electrical issues, I’m sure.

That's the approach I took. Just VHB taped a trickle charger under the hood. And I'll plug it into the pedestal directly.


I think I was all done in 20 minutes and that's counting a good five looking for the tape.

[Mahatnmacoat]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

Obviously this momentary switch goes to a solenoid, too much amperage going through those wires.

Installing a permanent device like the tric-L-start device sounds like it’s easier to just install it and forget it rather than forgetting to flip a bypass switch and make the alternator cause all kinds of electrical issues, I’m sure.

That's right. The orange wire leads go the solenoid (relay) and when energized triggers the relay. Click, the batteries are parrelled. Looking at the relay from the front of the chassis the relay is directly in front of the steering wheel. The chassis charging wire is the black #4 wire on the left side on top of the relay. The black #4 directly opposite is the house charging wire. The orange, yellow and red wires to and from the switch are #18 gauge.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Mahatnmacoat

That's right. The orange wire leads go the solenoid (relay) and when energized triggers the relay. Click, the batteries are parrelled. Looking at the relay from the front of the chassis the relay is directly in front of the steering wheel. The chassis charging wire is the black #4 wire on the left side on top of the relay. The black #4 directly opposite is the house charging wire. The orange, yellow and red wires to and from the switch are #18 gauge.

Thanks a boat load, ( I mean a RV load), lol!

[JimD]

I added that feature to my 2017 Greyhawk using a wireless relay. I connected it to the big relay's primary so when I press the remote button it triggers the charging relay (solenoid). When I press the off button, it drops out.

The only mod I did to the original wiring was to install a blocking diode inline with the ignition wire going to the primary to block my signal from being fed back into the ignition. I'm not sure but it may have activated things when I fired it up without the diode. Can't remember for sure. Diode was cheap insurance for isolation.

I have a voltage display plugged into the dash power outlet so I can monitor the chassis battery level. When I see it getting low I activate my remote switch and the charge voltage is immediately visible on the voltage display. It reminds me that I have the charge activated.

This setup is used while I am camping. When at home I just have a trickle charger attached to the chassis battery and have my solar tend to the house batteries.

[Mahatnmacoat]

See, if I was as smart as you, thats how I would have done mine. I credit myself for not using any duct tape this time.

Shade tree cook;
If you don't like fried food you didn't fry it long enough.
Shade tree mechanic;
You're not forcing hard enough.

[Berjr]

Wont this do it and there will be no switch to change or forget to change back? Mega TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by Mahatnmacoat

See, if I was as smart as you, thats how I would have done mine. I credit myself for not using any duct tape this time.

Shade tree cook;
If you don't like fried food you didn't fry it long enough.
Shade tree mechanic;
You're not forcing hard enough.

Lol! When I was a teen I wired my own car amp in my first car. The only tape in I could find in my parents garage was good old duct tape. Needless to say I blew out 3 amps until I was told duct tape conducts electricity! Good lesson leaned!

[JesseS]

I just added a 20 amp normally open relay to the solar controller output on another diode protected line, and ran it to the start battery via a inline fuse. As long as the sun shines the relay closes and charges the start battery, at sundown the replay opens to isolate the start & house battery. Had all parts in my shop and took all of 30 minutes, fully automatic and I don't have to remember to 'switch' it back.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by JesseS

I just added a 20 amp normally open relay to the solar controller output on another diode protected line, and ran it to the start battery via a inline fuse. As long as the sun shines the relay closes and charges the start battery, at sundown the replay opens to isolate the start & house battery. Had all parts in my shop and took all of 30 minutes, fully automatic and I don't have to remember to 'switch' it back.

Excellent idea! Did you hook the relay primary to the controller's "load" connection?

[Snapchen]

Originally Posted by Mahatnmacoat

That's right. The orange wire leads go the solenoid (relay) and when energized triggers the relay. Click, the batteries are parrelled. Looking at the relay from the front of the chassis the relay is directly in front of the steering wheel. The chassis charging wire is the black #4 wire on the left side on top of the relay. The black #4 directly opposite is the house charging wire. The orange, yellow and red wires to and from the switch are #18 gauge.

While on shore power to charge the chassis battery, I use a trickle charger plugged in to 120v above the recliners and the other end plugged into the cigarette lighter.
29MV Grey Hawk.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Snapchen

While on shore power to charge the chassis battery, I use a trickle charger plugged in to 120v above the recliners and the other end plugged into the cigarette lighter.
29MV Grey Hawk.

Since you are knowledgeable in electronics, how about the idea of a little voltage sensor that engages your relay whenever it senses the house battery voltage get above 13 volts?

[JesseS]

Originally Posted by JimD

Excellent idea! Did you hook the relay primary to the controller's "load" connection?

No, mainly because I am already using that for "Rat" lights under the rig, but you could if not otherwise in use, but only if timer or manual controlled, if it is dusk>dawn then no. I did it the way I did to provide daytime charging and then isolate the start battery at night when I am using the most power from the house batteries. I do use Lithium house batteries so have ample power.