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Old 04-04-2016, 10:11 PM   #11
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don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rick-in-Houston View Post
don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
I was thinking the same thing! The man keeps spending my money with his ideas!
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:08 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Rick-in-Houston View Post
don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
This stuff we have talked about is only the tip of the iceberg!

Added TPMS, remotes to cab door power locks, SiriusXM radio add-in, side camera on/off switch, ScanGaugeD, Freightliner fog lights, Thetford Aria Deluxe II electric flush toilet, Atwood XT 10-gallon conventional water heater, Remco 5-chamber water pump (very quiet and less pulsations), Carefree Direct Response electronics for awning (puts itself away when wind picks up), LED awning light dimmer, 40" TV in front bunk and 39" TV on full-motion mount outside, 27" TV on full motion mount (so we can actually see it sitting up in bed) and separate sound bar in rear bedroom, RVSuperbag bedding system for rear bed, 12-volt Blu-Ray player for external TV (still have to install), full Z-Tech rustproofing, converted (4) house batteries to 6-volt Trojan T-105 with single-point watering system, and probably more I haven't mentioned. I also removed all of the exterior compartment doors so I could have the (already) horribly rusted hinges cadmium plated.

Some mods I am planning for this season are to "split" the pull-out pantry into two slide out sections, keeping the original outside face and converting it into a hinged door. Dear Wife hates the one huge pull-out drawer. I also am designing and will build a front console to fit between and underneath the Freightliner cup holders in the cab. I envision a couple additional cup holders, some extra power points, and a tip-out drawer down below to keep the registration, insurance card, and other small items handy. We also are going to install a washer/dryer combo (that is all that will fit in a TS) since the DW is also tired of sitting for hours in campground laundromats.

We plan to keep this coach a while, and some of my mods will hopefully protect it (TPMS, awning electronics, hinge plating, rustproofing); some to correct what I believe were Jayco "oversights" in a coach such as we have like the water heater, cheap O.E. water pump and toilet. I freely admit many are convenience items that make driving it long distances and living in it more comfortable. One thing that makes my projects more affordable is that I have done most all of the labor myself. Obviously the rustproofing and hinge plating I paid for, but even the water heater install I did myself, but Jayco did paint the new outside cover for the Atwood when it was at the factory service center getting some other repairs.

I'm not trying to be boastful, I hope that if other owners are seeking to modify their coaches my experiences might be of value. I am happy to try to explain how I did what I did. And the wife is onboard for most of these mods since we had some of these conveniences in our prior Class C units. She especially hated the original tankless water heater since it was never consistent despite several (attempted) repairs. She has even contributed significantly to the work, even helping out in the driveway when I needed extra hands to do something. And she took our old rear bedspread (since we have the Superbag) and converted it into our cab "drape" to separate the cab from the coach when setup somewhere. (see pic below of her handiwork).
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
One thing I have experienced with my ScanGauge is the connector falling off of the vehicle's diagnostic port on very rough roads. Several times I have looked at my display and it is dead. Feel around the connection and it has come off. I have gotten good at continuing to drive while reattaching the connector strictly by feel.

I wish it had some type of retainer to hold it onto the connector, since it points straight down and gravity is always working to remove it. Thinking about trying to just wrap it with a a few turns of electrical tape at the connection point to see if that is enough to keep things together on rough roads. Can't be too permanent since Freightliner may need into the port down the road!
Regarding the ScanGauge: Drill a small hole in the side of the connector so a sheetmetal screw can thread through the connector and slightly bite into the side of the diagnostic port. The connector will no longer fall out, this would happen to me as well. Quick fix.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:13 AM   #15
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Regarding the ScanGauge: Drill a small hole in the side of the connector so a sheetmetal screw can thread through the connector and slightly bite into the side of the diagnostic port. The connector will no longer fall out, this would happen to me as well. Quick fix.
That is why this forum is so helpful. Good idea, thanks!
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
This stuff we have talked about is only the tip of the iceberg!

Added TPMS, remotes to cab door power locks, SiriusXM radio add-in, side camera on/off switch, ScanGaugeD, Freightliner fog lights, Thetford Aria Deluxe II electric flush toilet, Atwood XT 10-gallon conventional water heater, Remco 5-chamber water pump (very quiet and less pulsations), Carefree Direct Response electronics for awning (puts itself away when wind picks up), LED awning light dimmer, 40" TV in front bunk and 39" TV on full-motion mount outside, 27" TV on full motion mount (so we can actually see it sitting up in bed) and separate sound bar in rear bedroom, RVSuperbag bedding system for rear bed, 12-volt Blu-Ray player for external TV (still have to install), full Z-Tech rustproofing, converted (4) house batteries to 6-volt Trojan T-105 with single-point watering system, and probably more I haven't mentioned. I also removed all of the exterior compartment doors so I could have the (already) horribly rusted hinges cadmium plated.

Some mods I am planning for this season are to "split" the pull-out pantry into two slide out sections, keeping the original outside face and converting it into a hinged door. Dear Wife hates the one huge pull-out drawer. I also am designing and will build a front console to fit between and underneath the Freightliner cup holders in the cab. I envision a couple additional cup holders, some extra power points, and a tip-out drawer down below to keep the registration, insurance card, and other small items handy. We also are going to install a washer/dryer combo (that is all that will fit in a TS) since the DW is also tired of sitting for hours in campground laundromats.

We plan to keep this coach a while, and some of my mods will hopefully protect it (TPMS, awning electronics, hinge plating, rustproofing); some to correct what I believe were Jayco "oversights" in a coach such as we have like the water heater, cheap O.E. water pump and toilet. I freely admit many are convenience items that make driving it long distances and living in it more comfortable. One thing that makes my projects more affordable is that I have done most all of the labor myself. Obviously the rustproofing and hinge plating I paid for, but even the water heater install I did myself, but Jayco did paint the new outside cover for the Atwood when it was at the factory service center getting some other repairs.

I'm not trying to be boastful, I hope that if other owners are seeking to modify their coaches my experiences might be of value. I am happy to try to explain how I did what I did. And the wife is onboard for most of these mods since we had some of these conveniences in our prior Class C units. She especially hated the original tankless water heater since it was never consistent despite several (attempted) repairs. She has even contributed significantly to the work, even helping out in the driveway when I needed extra hands to do something. And she took our old rear bedspread (since we have the Superbag) and converted it into our cab "drape" to separate the cab from the coach when setup somewhere. (see pic below of her handiwork).
Sweet list!
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:43 AM   #17
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I certainly appreciate all the help, insight, guidance, and ideas this forum tosses around. I too plan on keeping my Seneca for many years, so I am trying to make a concerted effort to protect our investment early, before it's too late.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
full Z-Tech rustproofing
Can you elaborate on this? Where did you have it done? What exactly is it? Rough cost?

Good to know about the latches rusting. I have access to my uncle's powder coating oven, so I will probably pull mine off and powder coat all of them. That will probably have to wait until next winter, when I have some more time. Summer time is coming and we actually want to use and enjoy this thing, and not spend every minute upgrading/fixing stuff! But I must say I have been enjoying some of the mod work.

Have a decent little list planned for this weekend. Hope to be installing DirecTV receiver. Permanently installing the ScanD in the dash, swapping the Overdrive Switch with the Mirror Heat, and replacing the faulty passenger window switch. Also, want to disable the relay that turns off the tv and satellite receiver with the ignition on. Finally, hope to get my Inverter out of Power Saver Mode, and maybe my Microwave will finally stop resetting and beeping at me! Oh yeah, and the screw trick on the ScanD connector.. brilliant! Gonna do that too!
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:32 PM   #18
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Z-Tech is an off-shoot of Ziebart here in Northeast Ohio. I retired from a municipal fire department and we used Z-Tech on the fire trucks and ambulances to help keep them from rusting out here in our area where sometimes there is more salt on the road than asphalt!

I saw rust appearing on some of the Jayco-added structure that supported the floor and compartments. The steel structure that supports the floor and what you see when you open a compartment door is obviously vulnerable to the elements. So are the compartment door hinges, especially the lower hinges. Z-Tech cleaned off all existing corrosion and then coated it with POR-15. Then everything was coated with Z-Tech's paraffin-based rustproofing. When I delivered it to Z-Tech I already had removed all compartment doors so they could get to everything. They also did the whole chassis front to rear. It took them 5 days to finish my unit, but I am very pleased with the job I they did. The cost (gulp) was $3,000. But I know how much work they put into it.

Regarding the compartment door hinges - The hardest part was that at least half of the Jayco-installed mild steel screws snapped off in the aluminum of the doors. Took hours to drill all of them out. I replaced all of the screws in the doors with stainless self-tapping TEK screws. Where the hinges bolted to the body structure originally they were also self-tapping screws. But I drilled out all of those holes (before it went to Z-Tech) and bolted the hinges with stainless bolts with stainless washers and locknuts. I was surprised by how much all the hardware had corroded just since I have owned it. So my modest investment in stainless hardware hopefully will pay off. Below are examples of the screws/bolts I used.

Another thing regarding the hinges. Mine had a bolt and thin jam nut that functions as the open "stop" for the hinge. Now the bolts were actually stainless originally, but the nuts were plain steel and rusting badly! So I also purchased thin jam nuts to replace the mild steel ones. Picture of them below too. All hardware came from Albany County Fasteners on eBay.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:57 PM   #19
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Gentlemen...thinking very hard about adding one of these as standard gauges in the Freightliner M2 are very limited. Just wondering where the diagnostic connector is located on the 2014 Seneca? Would it be in the engine compartment or behind the dash and hard to get to? Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #20
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Right under the dash behind the ignition switch. Very easy to access.
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