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Old 07-06-2018, 09:53 PM   #1
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Seneca Front curtain and bunks

Hey guys I am wondering how many of you received the front curtain for your motorhome? I am talking the privacy curtain for between the driving area and the living area? There is Velcro on the bulkhead but no curtain on my part.

Also if you have the bunkhouse model did you get a ladder for the bunks? Or do you just use the one from the front? I am utilizing the one that robbyr put up but wondering if it was something else missed?

Hot water on the bathroom sink? Mine doesn’t seem to keep the water heater going on the bathroom sink. All other outlets it does pretty good just not the sink. Anyone else having similar issues? (Mine is the Girard tankless)
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:02 PM   #2
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Hot water on the bathroom sink? Mine doesn’t seem to keep the water heater going on the bathroom sink. All other outlets it does pretty good just not the sink. Anyone else having similar issues? (Mine is the Girard tankless)
You likely have a problem with that faucet being able to flow enough to keep the water heater functioning. You might remove the faucet aerator and look for debris. If it is clear, you may have an installed flow restrictor in that fixture that you have to remove or enlarge.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:29 AM   #3
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We had the same problem with the bath sink not have enough water flow for the hot water heater to start up. After several attempts to increase the water flow through the aerator, I finally drilled some small holes in the aerator...problem solved.
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:11 AM   #4
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Seneca Front curtain and bunks

Quote:
Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10 View Post
Hey guys I am wondering how many of you received the front curtain for your motorhome? I am talking the privacy curtain for between the driving area and the living area? There is Velcro on the bulkhead but no curtain on my part.



Also if you have the bunkhouse model did you get a ladder for the bunks? Or do you just use the one from the front? I am utilizing the one that robbyr put up but wondering if it was something else missed?



Hot water on the bathroom sink? Mine doesn’t seem to keep the water heater going on the bathroom sink. All other outlets it does pretty good just not the sink. Anyone else having similar issues? (Mine is the Girard tankless)


As far as the bathroom sink hot water, try getting an aerator that will flow more water and I think you will be happy with the results. Flow is what makes the water heater turn on, and when I had the same problem, that is how I corrected it. It works !!
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Old 07-07-2018, 08:54 AM   #5
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I will be your best friend on this post...as I have the 37FS and can give you info on everything you mentioned...plus more.

Yes, you should have got a cab divider. Mine was brown. I use mine sometimes, but really when I just want to hide kids crap in the front cab area. It really doesnt do much for heat transfer, it really just is a visual block. I use the heat shield window covers in the cab and that does both heat and visual blocking. This is a much better way to go. Like I said, I would use both, heat shield for insulation and visual blocking and the divider to allow you to use the cab as storage while you are docked. I am assuming that since you got the bunks, you have some kids, and I promise you, with the amount of crap they want to bring or you need to bring for them, this area is handy. I use the drivers seat to hold my toddlers backpack carrier thing, and then keep 2 spare 5 gallon water bottles in the front passenger leg area while we camp for drinking and such.

There is NO ladder for the rear bunk. It is stupid. I asked Jayco about it and they said they never thought about it...really? However my kids who I allow in the top bunk are old enough to climb up in there themselves so its not that big of a deal.

Note the front ladder has to be moved for the front slide to be in. This will cause the kids to try to use the chair (you have the girard, so I know you dont have a 2018.5 with a fireplace there instead) to get up in the cabover area. There will be some yelling involved to tell them to not climb on the furniture to get up there.

The sinks water restricter, does not allow enough flow for the girard to detect it. This is an easy fix. Take the aerator, restrictor out, and tear it fully apart until you get to the green piece. Get a 1/16 bit and drill some larger holes in the green thing. Then put it all back together. Now it works.

Side notes...I have noticed the toilet will not flow all the way to the front on the pump. Works fine on city pressure. Bring a toilet brush with you if you boondock. Jayco does not see this as a problem and will not fix anything. You can however upgrade your pump, which some people have done.

When you wash the rig, dont spray water up into the fridge vent. It will drain down into the furnace and short it out and piss it off until you dry the board back out again.

I can give you much more info...just let me know what you want to know.
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Old 07-07-2018, 11:03 AM   #6
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Our 2018 Seneca came with a nice set of pleated, insulated window panels that fold up nice and slip in a bag. The side ones you open the door, stick it on as it has magnets inside and close the doors. On the front you just stick it in and flip the visors down to hold it. I like this as it give you the cab area for crap. There is a label on it and it has M2 on it but I can look for a manufacturer label on it.
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Old 07-07-2018, 02:46 PM   #7
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Window shades

Rusty
Please check on the manufacturer and a part # would be wonderful - we would love to have a set of these shades
Thanks Les
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Old 07-08-2018, 12:00 AM   #8
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Ruroryan thanks for the help thus far. I too am using the heat shield covers but the curtain would be nice to have too. I actually had them make a pattern to cover the window on the side door, the bunk windows, and the master window! What a life saver they are for heat and light!!

We are battling the furniture climbing already mine are 3yo and 1yo. It will pass. But did you have any issues with the audio boxes falling out above the main tv? Mine do it while driving.

Also seems like the jacks can’t even level in the street in front of my house. Do they have very minimal range? My street is flat with just the normal crown of the road.

Also my AC’s leak any issues there?

I will do the drill bit trick.
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Old 07-08-2018, 05:02 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=brtnsnwbrds10;

Also seems like the jacks can’t even level in the street in front of my house. Do they have very minimal range? My street is flat with just the normal crown of the road.

.[/QUOTE]

I made several 2x12s with handles to place under the jacks. My “Seneport” is sloped so the rain runs off and I find it’s easier to put the 2xs under the low side jacks. Seems to make leveling easier.
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Old 07-08-2018, 12:12 PM   #10
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I made several 2x12s with handles to place under the jacks. My “Seneport” is sloped so the rain runs off and I find it’s easier to put the 2xs under the low side jacks. Seems to make leveling easier.
We use a similar setup when we park on just about any road with curb/gutter. The crown of the road ends up being 5-7 inches lower and our jacks will throw the error unless we put our blocks underneath them.

Now this usually spawns another discussion on having your wheels off the ground... they will be! We sometimes will drive our Seneca up on our blocks that are 3 layers of 2x8s that are screwed together as one block that provides about 5" of lift overall, which is about the curb height we need to be close to level on the street. I cut the 2x8s at different length so that they act as a ramp to drive up on too... the longest board on the bottom is exactly the depth of our storage compartments, the top one is 12" so it provides a decent area that the tire has full support.
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:39 PM   #11
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Ruroryan thanks for the help thus far. I too am using the heat shield covers but the curtain would be nice to have too. I actually had them make a pattern to cover the window on the side door, the bunk windows, and the master window! What a life saver they are for heat and light!!

We are battling the furniture climbing already mine are 3yo and 1yo. It will pass. But did you have any issues with the audio boxes falling out above the main tv? Mine do it while driving.

Also seems like the jacks can’t even level in the street in front of my house. Do they have very minimal range? My street is flat with just the normal crown of the road.

Also my AC’s leak any issues there?

I will do the drill bit trick.
On ours I added a DirecTV tuner and it fits entirely behind the lip of the wood so it stays. We put the Blue-ray on top of that and used double sided velcro tape to hold it, just like what should have come OEM to hold the HDMI splitter to the Blue-ray.

Leveling is a pain. It has to be pretty darn to flat for these to level. I have learned that the leveling algorithm is pretty crappy. It starts by pushing all four out, but not on the ground. Then puts each pad down separately to the ground until some pressure is built so it knows its down. This raises the coach about 1/2 to 1" on each corner already before it even levels. After that it starts leveling. But I have noticed that if it is off side to side, it will still bring up the high side a tad before raising the low side to compensate. This causes it to get out of stroke quickly. What I have learned is after I park, to unload the air, by pressing the brakes until all the air is out. Then doing an auto level to open the valves to dump the air out of the rear bags. Then retract all and then finally auto level again. This drops the back of the coach down a bit and gives the rear a bit more stroke to level. I keep a level in my coach and even after I level, I find that sometimes it is not as close as I like it, or the coach is way to high altogether. I then retract each side back down to a more stable position...still making sure I have both tires and pads on the ground to provide the most stable setup. Having front leaf springs, we dont get the luxury of being able to dump the entire coach and leveling from very low. The leaf springs keep the coach high and severely limit the capability of the leveling jacks. I have found my way does take longer than say a class a with 4 corner bags, but having a 5er previously with hydraulics up front and scissors in the rear and having to use leveling blocks, it is MUCH faster that trying to set that up. Maybe takes me 5 minutes. Most of that is waiting for the jacks to come down and then auto retract.

I have not had a problem with my AC's so that should be something you see the dealer about.

EDIT: I have however found that the rear AC has less space to cool and therefor cools much faster. If you leave the main vents closed..the ones on the AC unit itelf...the unit will send the air through the full ceiling wide channels, causing some of the rear AC air to be sent to the front and provide a more even cooling experience.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:40 AM   #12
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re: leveling -- I have had good consistent results by first placing a 2 x 12 x 24 piece of wood under each foot (to spread and stabilize the load on soft ground surfaces). Then I stack 4 x 4 x 6 wood blocks on top of the 2 x 12's to minimize each jack's downtravel (and maximize lifting range). Typically two 4 x 4's is all it takes under each foot. An inconvenience for sure, but I like the results. It has been my experience also that the rear air bags deflate on their own in plenty of time once the rear starts to lift, and I always remember to air-up the air tanks immediately before jacks-up to minimize/eliminate 'creep' as each jack is unloaded.
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Old 07-09-2018, 09:13 AM   #13
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True the bags will deflate quickly, but if you dont let them back down again, you in effect are starting the level at the lifted pressurized position. Dropping the coach back down again, allows the rear to start its leveling at a lower to the ground position. I look for stability and this increases as the closer the rig is to the ground.
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:54 AM   #14
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I'd like to get back to the original post subject.

The Seneca cab, is purely a truck body with the insulation and heating and cooling system to overcome the lack of insulation. When parked and living in the "cabin" portion of the Seneca, the cab portion is hardly used more than for storage or in moderate conditions a little sitting area. But temps down to freezing or up to the high 90's or 100 degrees, it becomes a heat sink and impacts the cooling and heating of the rest of the "cabin". We use reflective insulation on the windows and then cover the opening under the queen size bunk with a heavy quilt. It really makes a difference.

In another modification, we added coat hooks on the cabin side of the bulkheads. This allows us to store coats and rain gear in a readily accessable area, but also provides a platform for an extendable bar that supports the quilt to close the truck cab off. Easily removed and stored in the queen bunk when on the road and readily available to put in place when stopped for the night.

The bride is working on a specific quilt for this area to compliment the interior decor. Quilting as become one of her traveling hobbies and she even works on it as we go down the road. That is, if it isn't her turn to drive.
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Old 07-10-2018, 06:03 AM   #15
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That is, if it isn't her turn to drive.[/QUOTE]

You get yours to drive ?!?!? My DW’s feet don’t reach the pedals. I had to build a step in front of her seat so her feet don’t dangle as we go down the road. Lol
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:50 AM   #16
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I'd like to get back to the original post subject.

The Seneca cab, is purely a truck body with the insulation and heating and cooling system to overcome the lack of insulation. When parked and living in the "cabin" portion of the Seneca, the cab portion is hardly used more than for storage or in moderate conditions a little sitting area. But temps down to freezing or up to the high 90's or 100 degrees, it becomes a heat sink and impacts the cooling and heating of the rest of the "cabin". We use reflective insulation on the windows and then cover the opening under the queen size bunk with a heavy quilt. It really makes a difference.

In another modification, we added coat hooks on the cabin side of the bulkheads. This allows us to store coats and rain gear in a readily accessable area, but also provides a platform for an extendable bar that supports the quilt to close the truck cab off. Easily removed and stored in the queen bunk when on the road and readily available to put in place when stopped for the night.

The bride is working on a specific quilt for this area to compliment the interior decor. Quilting as become one of her traveling hobbies and she even works on it as we go down the road. That is, if it isn't her turn to drive.
We face the same issues with the heat/cold and have a three tiered approach that gives us some flexibility on the lenghth of stay and the temps.

We did get the Factory curtain that wraps around the cab windows with velcro hooks and elastic in the top seam that we have to tuck the Freightliner sun visors around to keep it up. It is a pain in the butt to put up and take down unless you and the co-pilot are sitting in the seats. It works OK for privacy, does little to block out light and does not insulate either. Most of the time, it sits in the storage bag in the corner of the overcab bunk as we found a much simpler solution. -

While many of our trips are stays for a week, and travel two-days on the weekends - we often just need something for a quick overnight stop. We were in a Walmart parking lot one night and I picked up a ready made curtain and rod that just goes across the bulkhead behind the drivers seats. We just roll it up on the rod and GO in the morning, it takes 10 seconds to set up and put away! It also has some of the insulating capabilities that Ric mentions, but wont cut it alone on a hot/freezing day.

We picked up some of the silver reflective insulation that easily rolls up from Home Depot, cut out the shape of the drivers / passenger and front window and shove them over the interior of the windows. This is a great insulation, blocks the light and when it is really hot out, we also have used it along with the curtain or both curtains to keep us comfortable. We did use all three when we were camping in a casino parking lot where it was 8F that night, every layer helped, but getting in the cab the next morning was brrrr.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:17 PM   #17
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8 degrees or anything like that is no problem at all for us in our Seneca. If the temp is anywhere near that, my Florida DW will be thousands of miles away. Lol
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:31 PM   #18
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Rusty
Please check on the manufacturer and a part # would be wonderful - we would love to have a set of these shades
Thanks Les
Well I checked them out today and here are pics of the only tags on them, this is a side window one and these have magnets in them that you open the door, stick it on and close the door. One side is dark (inside) and the other is a white reflective color (outside). The tags aren’t going to be much help as I googled the company and nothing came up. Maybe check with Jayco.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:11 PM   #19
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Well I checked them out today and here are pics of the only tags on them, this is a side window one and these have magnets in them that you open the door, stick it on and close the door. One side is dark (inside) and the other is a white reflective color (outside). The tags aren’t going to be much help as I googled the company and nothing came up. Maybe check with Jayco.
PLEASE do not cut those tags off... We have no bail money left to loan out!

Ok.. Mark S. we might be saving a little
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:32 PM   #20
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PLEASE do not cut those tags off... We have no bail money left to loan out!

Ok.. Mark S. we might be saving a little
Did you notice it says not to remove except by CUSTONOR Their Engrish not so good
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