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Old 10-20-2019, 04:12 PM   #1
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Winterizing Redhawk 24B

So I finally got to the hidden water filter behind the drawer on 24B.
There is two valves going into the filter. If I empty the filter conteiner will it fill up with antifreeze or these two valves need to be in close position for winterizing?
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:07 PM   #2
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We just winterized our class c 22j.our filter is very difficult to remove cartridge so i leave it empty and just pump antifreeze thru it. Antifreeze is cheat so i use 3+ gals to insure all faucets and shower is loaded . We use exterior water filter and do not bother with inside filter.
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Old 10-20-2019, 07:21 PM   #3
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There is two valves going into the filter. If I empty the filter conteiner will it fill up with antifreeze or these two valves need to be in close position for winterizing?
I believe those two valves are just to eliminate any additional water leaking out of the canister when you take it off to change the cartridge. If you leave those two valves closed, I don't think you'll get the AF to feed into the rig, since you're connecting the siphon to the same inlet port as your water in.

AF will flow through the empty cannister too, as far as I know.
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:40 AM   #4
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Thank you all.All of it make sense.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:03 AM   #5
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Thank you all.All of it make sense.
Well, when all else fails..... there's always Page 109 of the manual that Jayco gave you when you purchased the rig....
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:02 PM   #6
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I guess they figure it's not enough to worry about, but how nice would it be to have a true bypass around the filter?

I was thinking about putting in a couple 3-way valves on each side of the filter housing connected by a small piece of flex hose to make a true filter bypass...
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:12 PM   #7
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I guess this is as good as anywhere to mention that if you choose to bypass and remove the filter before winterizing all you need is one shark bite fitting and a PEX cutter. I bought extra fittings and PEX, none of which was needed. I cut before and after all of those ridiculous valves and bends to the filter and still had to cut a foot of existing PEX off to get the two pieces to connect clean and simple. And yes if you shut the valves off you won't get water or antifreeze into the system.
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:23 PM   #8
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In a recent post about winterizing, someone mentioned that after they remove the filter and empty the water from the whole-house cartridge, they put an empty soda bottle in the cartridge so that the amount of anti-freeze needed is much less than filling the entire cartridge. I think that's a great suggestion.
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Old 10-21-2019, 06:29 PM   #9
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Wow, its a great idea. That's why we ask questions in this forum and we get great answers and ideas.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:32 PM   #10
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I guess this is as good as anywhere to mention that if you choose to bypass and remove the filter before winterizing all you need is one shark bite fitting and a PEX cutter. I bought extra fittings and PEX, none of which was needed. I cut before and after all of those ridiculous valves and bends to the filter and still had to cut a foot of existing PEX off to get the two pieces to connect clean and simple.
Thanks, that's good to know.

This is of of my next projects to tackle after our last trip. We're going out for a long weekend this Wednesday, then probably putting the rig to bed for the season.
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:51 AM   #11
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Just an update. I just finish winterizing my 24B and it was a piece of cake. So on this model you don’t have to turn the city hook up screen to create a siphon , once you switch to “sanitize/winterize” position it creates the siphoning process. One gallon of AF was enough but I used more :-)
Note - just in case you don’t know, water pump switch is hidden in the top right corner of outside shower.
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:57 AM   #12
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Another tack to take, but to each his own decisions:

This is what I decided to do. I've got 2020 Redhawk 24B as well. I took the filter + 2 silver valves out completely. Turn the valves off to minimize water leakage. Then, you can cut those pipes in seconds using a sprinkler pipe cutter just below the silver valves leaving plenty of PEX pipe to work with. Then remove the filter + 2 valves as one whole unit still full water. Then get a short section [1 ft.] of PEX and replumb. Pretty easy if you have a PEX tool, or you can use Sharkbite type fittings if you don't. Both work very well. You've now eliminated quite a few leak points at once.

If you look at the exterior water hose inlet [outside the rig where you hook your hose to] its piping goes into the water filter you just removed 2 ft. away. Thus, just using an exterior filter of your choice instead seems more convenient and safer? maybe protecting the electronics in the same drawer better, maybe not - the pump, et. al. is still in there.

Thus, winterize/dewinterize becomes easier. I'm more willing to do it more frequently than 1x per year, if we want. No future need to get into the drawer unless something really goes wrong - given it's an RV, it won't be be last time in that drawer I know...

Additionally, the mounting bracket of that big/heavy filter full of water was poorly screwed into the wood framing doing all that bouncing down the road inside that cabinet. The framing itself I felt was not very solid either, even if the filter had been screwed into it better - thus, I felt at least, it might fail after the first few times trying to open the filter to get at the element for changing/winterizing as you do have to crank on the mounting a bit with the filter wrench to get it unscrewed and open to change.

Just my take on the whole thing. Everyone has their own ideas of how they like things - and there is no 1 right way. Hope you all enjoy your rigs and have many great trips.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:25 AM   #13
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Another tack to take, but to each his own decisions:

This is what I decided to do. I've got 2020 Redhawk 24B as well. I took the filter + 2 silver valves out completely. Turn the valves off to minimize water leakage. Then, you can cut those pipes in seconds using a sprinkler pipe cutter just below the silver valves leaving plenty of PEX pipe to work with. Then remove the filter + 2 valves as one whole unit still full water. Then get a short section [1 ft.] of PEX and replumb. Pretty easy if you have a PEX tool, or you can use Sharkbite type fittings if you don't. Both work very well. You've now eliminated quite a few leak points at once.

If you look at the exterior water hose inlet [outside the rig where you hook your hose to] its piping goes into the water filter you just removed 2 ft. away. Thus, just using an exterior filter of your choice instead seems more convenient and safer? maybe protecting the electronics in the same drawer better, maybe not - the pump, et. al. is still in there.

Thus, winterize/dewinterize becomes easier. I'm more willing to do it more frequently than 1x per year, if we want. No future need to get into the drawer unless something really goes wrong - given it's an RV, it won't be be last time in that drawer I know...

Additionally, the mounting bracket of that big/heavy filter full of water was poorly screwed into the wood framing doing all that bouncing down the road inside that cabinet. The framing itself I felt was not very solid either, even if the filter had been screwed into it better - thus, I felt at least, it might fail after the first few times trying to open the filter to get at the element for changing/winterizing as you do have to crank on the mounting a bit with the filter wrench to get it unscrewed and open to change.

Just my take on the whole thing. Everyone has their own ideas of how they like things - and there is no 1 right way. Hope you all enjoy your rigs and have many great trips.
I removed my filter exactly as you did except I had plenty of pex and did not require any extra, just one shark bite. Just a heads up, I can tell you exactly why you will be back under that drawer space. It will be when you need to perform a manual slide override. Ask me how I know. It's a real PITA with the slide closed and no room to get to the access panel.
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:39 PM   #14
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I believe those two valves are just to eliminate any additional water leaking out of the canister when you take it off to change the cartridge. If you leave those two valves closed, I don't think you'll get the AF to feed into the rig, since you're connecting the siphon to the same inlet port as your water in.

AF will flow through the empty cannister too, as far as I know.

That's what happened in ours.
Close those valves and no AF got into the system.
I just remove the filter and let the canister fill up with pink stuff.
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Old 10-26-2019, 01:52 PM   #15
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I removed my filter exactly as you did except I had plenty of pex and did not require any extra, just one shark bite. Just a heads up, I can tell you exactly why you will be back under that drawer space. It will be when you need to perform a manual slide override. Ask me how I know. It's a real PITA with the slide closed and no room to get to the access panel.
Yep. I had the red power wire come loose in mine with the slide closed. It did make me realize there is a screwed in access panel closer to the controller than the drawers are however. Easy fix.
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Old 10-26-2019, 08:24 PM   #16
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This is what I decided to do. I've got 2020 Redhawk 24B as well. I took the filter + 2 silver valves out completely. Turn the valves off to minimize water leakage. Then, you can cut those pipes in seconds using a sprinkler pipe cutter just below the silver valves leaving plenty of PEX pipe to work with. Then remove the filter + 2 valves as one whole unit still full water. Then get a short section [1 ft.] of PEX and replumb. Pretty easy if you have a PEX tool, or you can use Sharkbite type fittings if you don't. Both work very well. You've now eliminated quite a few leak points at once.
OK, what about the water pump? That's also located in that area, below the filter housing. Isn't it a pain to get too? Plus, the pump has a filter screen that occasionally needs to be cleaned too. This is another item I'm thinking of relocating, since all pumps will eventually have issues. Mine is pretty loud too, so it probably also needs some better isolator mounts.
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:14 AM   #17
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I agree the water pump needs to be relocated. Just separate the water systems from the electronics would be ideal, although given the placement of the hose entry from the outside, I'm not sure going to that extent would be worth it.... I haven't thought that far ahead though on the pump. Not sure where would be a good spot.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:24 AM   #18
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I agree, not worth the effort. just use outside water hose blue water filter to keep any sediment out of lines and pump, every time you camp and change it at mid season. water filter cartridge in not used leave it empty and connected. winterize by pushing water out of empty canister and through the lines. use more antifreeze but much easier process.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:56 AM   #19
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I agree the water pump needs to be relocated. Just separate the water systems from the electronics would be ideal,
When I looked in there, that was the first thing I thought, too... What engineer thought mixing electronics and water was a good idea..

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I haven't thought that far ahead though on the pump. Not sure where would be a good spot.
That's my attack plan, try to find a spot that doesn't require moving the slide out to service the water system.

Wondering if mounting the pump on the roof of the large storage bin, next to the water control panel would be a good option.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:40 PM   #20
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Well, when all else fails..... there's always Page 109 of the manual that Jayco gave you when you purchased the rig....
The same manual that said I could winterize with One gallon?( More like three)
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