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Old 04-09-2016, 12:37 PM   #41
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@everyone: Well, I know, I am confused as well and can't say what is what for certain as I can't see inside the walls. I can only say what I have seen and measured. Maybe this will help. I haven't digested these numbers yet either, we can all do it together but here's all the permutations and measurements so far.

Summary: We have two wires in two locations we believe are solar related as they act in a related way.
1. In the cabinet behind the "Solar Ready" sticker is a black wire and a white 8 gauge wire. Cut ends. The white was actually inside the cabinet and had to be fished out. The black was just barely visible.
2. In the battery compartment is another black and white 8 gauge wire. The ends have round/loop connectors that fit on a battery post bolt just like the pair that go to the DC inside the trailer. They appear to be just ready to connect to the battery.

Ok, now the actual data, taken with a voltmeter set to DC 200v max
measurements are taken by measuring the potential voltage difference between the red and black probes. The red goes to either the white or black wire I'm trying to measure voltage on and the black probe to trailer ground.

Let's start with the known, measured, data.

Scenario A: Both wires at the battery disconnected, panel on the roof disconnected.
measurements:
Battery Compartment:
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v
Cabinet
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v

* I also tried touching the black probe (multimeter) to both battery + and - while touching the red probe to the wire black, or white, to measure if the other end was somehow creating a circuit. 0v in all cases both areas.

Scenario B: Battery black goes to 30A breaker used by the front solar ready connector. White goes to battery - (which also goes to chassis ground). Solar panel on the roof not connected.
measurements:
Battery Compartment:
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v
Cabinet
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v

Scenario C: Battery wires disconnected. Solar panel on the roof connected to the connectors on the roof.
measurements:
Battery Compartment:
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v
Cabinet:
Black: 0.0v
White: 0.0v

Scenario D: Battery wires connected. Solar panel on the roof connected.
measurements:
Battery Compartment: NA these are connected and will give battery voltage now.
Cabinet
Black: 0.0v (even when touched to + side of DC in for the remote)
White: 34.0 when black probe is on the + terminal of the remote where the + (black) from the main controller goes in. 47.2v when the black probe is touched to the - (white) DC in for the remote controller.

PS: By remote controller right there (see prior) photos is the remote control controller (in cabinet) by the black and white wires. This thing has DC in from the main panel I can use to access battery voltage -/+ That's what I'm measuring with for reference.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:42 PM   #42
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@klassic: I'm not yet sure I can just walk into the dealer and say it's broken until I know just how it's broken.
I just looked in every document/manual/booklet given with the trailer and can only find the "Wired for Solar" Go Power! handout. It says "Get off the grid. This RV is Wired for Solar...and goes on to say it's wired for their Go Power! kits.
Checking online the GoPower is a PWM controller, and old technology at a premium. A newer MPPT controller with a 30A rating should cost less than 50.00 online. A 120W flexible solar panel online is 258.89 on Amazon. I can have 240W of solar with an MPPT controller for less than 600.00. No thanks Jayco. I prefer to install the latest technology not 10 year old technology in a new 2016 trailer. I will need their help to undo this and get a more up to date controller installed.
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Old 04-09-2016, 06:37 PM   #43
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testing connectivity (using multimeter)

Ok, you electricians and EE may like this post better. Using a continuity setting on the multimeter I checked the outputs from the top connector.

The test was: disconnect the panel and connect two long solar wiring extension cables to the roof connectors. I made a note which was (+ / - ) out from the panel that went into the roof connectors. I then used those wires connected up top that now reach to the battery box and to the inside cabinet to measure the ohms/continuity between those wires connected up there and the black and white in the cabinet and the black and white in the battery compartment.

Success. The White in the cabinet goes to the + input on the roof. The black at the battery goes to the - input on the roof. What????

Yep, I got infinite on the black in the cabinet and also at the white in the battery box for either of the roof wires. I got 0ohms on the roof + at the white in the cabinet and got 0ohms from the roof - at the battery black wire.

So, Jayco wired the roof negative to the battery box black (normally + wire) and the Roof positive to the normally negative (white) wire in the cabinet.

I have tested the black in the cabinet to the DC connections in the main controller and to the battery box area and it's not connected to anything in either spot. I see no loose wires when I go behind the microwave where all the wires come out of the wall and go towards the inside of the cabinet.

Sadly I think this will be a warranty issue as I don't see how this current wiring is ready for a charge controller of any sorts. Anyone have inputs otherwise?

Here's a diagram showing what I found with the continuity testing.
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RoofSolarWiring.jpg   SolarDiagramTestsDescribed.jpg   TestingBlackInCabinetToWhiteInBatteryArea.jpg  
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:04 PM   #44
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Keep up the good work Daddy.
I understand what your saying, but I don't understand why it's like that.
My prewire is more than simple.

Check if you have continuity between your mysterious battery white and ground.
Like I said before, I thought that wire was your chassis ground to battery -
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:03 PM   #45
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Now I have a hypothesis. They wired + and - backwards at the roof and the black in the cabinet was supposed to be + and the white ground. Maybe the Go Solar panel is reversed compared to my Grape Solar 250W panel? I used a multimeter at the outputs from the panel to confirm my + and - values. To confirm I connected the solar panel at the roof again. Knowing - goes to the black at the battery compartment and + at the white in the cabinet I used an 8 gauge jumper from the white in the cabinet to the battery box area. Using a multimeter I got the same voltage now with measuring the black at the battery box as - and the jumper at the cabinet to + as I did at the roof from the panel. That effectively connected the panel to the battery box area. The white in the battery box and the black in the cabinet seem open somewhere. Maybe coiled up somewhere hiding but it's not behind the sticker and it's not anywhere I can find.

Hence why the more I test the more I just realize this is now something that needs to be looked at by the Jayco Dealer now. Calling them tomorrow.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:20 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
[snip]
Check if you have continuity between your mysterious battery white and ground.
Like I said before, I thought that wire was your chassis ground to battery -
I did, nope, white at the battery area to chassis ground or battery - (even + for that matter) is open.
I also used a jumper in the cabinet to the black and tested everywhere I could find. I tested to the battery and chassis and all over the place...open.
Could be the black in the cabinet and the white at the battery are meet somewhere and are taped together and labeled. No idea where. I counted the wires inside the cabinet and I don't see any other 8 gauge wires from the wall to the cabinet other than those 2. Meaning if as the dealer said they have to "Fish" the wires out they are not where they are supposed to be in the cabinet area. The cabinet has open areas where the cables are run from the wall behind the microwave to an open space under the cabinet. See my photo. The red line is where all the wires going to the cabinet area there are routed in a concealed air space created under the inside bottom and the outside bottom of the cabinet. The bottom of the cabinet is made with two layers with an air gap inside used as a conduit.

FWIW: [Removing the microwave (easily done only a few screws) you can clearly see all this]

Could be the missing link is behind the fridge but I'm not going to remove it to find out at this stage.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:30 PM   #47
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Take the picture of my coiled up wires with the stickered and taped ends with you to the dealer so when they say it's not supposed to be that way you can show them it is suppose to be pre wired that way.
And show them the pictured of my red 8ga solar wire attached to a 30amp breaker and ask them where your breaker is.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:40 PM   #48
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@klassic: I agree, however, can you point me at that photo of your coiled up wires? I remember seeing it but do not see it in this thread.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:49 PM   #49
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Sorry it's not a very crisp picture but you can see the sticker that says solar option.

The solar wire is the red wire right in the middle attached to a 30a breaker then goes over to the power post where the 4ga to the battery is attached.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:08 AM   #50
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Thank you.
Your wiring appears to show positive (Red to Black) down in the battery area. This hints at my idea maybe the wires are reversed up top as I have the ground from the solar going to black in the battery compartment.
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