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Old 11-07-2017, 02:19 PM   #1
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28.5 RSTS Towing Level

Hello all,
Here's my problem with my 5ther. My wife had a 1500 Chevy Crewcab 4x4. We upgraded from a 2012, 23.5 RBS to a 2016, 28.5 RSTS. In my opion we were really pushing our 1/2 ton. I know our 5ther is a HT but with it loaded and pulling our jetski trailer it is pushing the limit on our Chevy. I'm not a big diesel fan so my wife and I bought a new 3/4 ton Dodge Crewcab 4x4 with the 6.4L gaser. After installing my 16K, ISO Pullrite hitch I have a huge problem with the tow level my 5ther is to my Dodge. These new 4x4 Dodges have so much height to them which makes pulling any 5ther level. I've got 9" of clearance between the bed rails and my 5ther so that's well over what is the recommended clearance of 4" to 6". I have no adjustment in my hitch and I've moved my pinbox up to the highest point only gaining me 1.5" I could of bought the old style hitch which would of been lower but the dealer didn't give that info to me. I should of done a little more research on my part but that's my fault. My next option is to cut suspension brackets off and to weld a spacer which will be around six to eight inches. I'll make another post when I get this completed.
Chris
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Old 11-07-2017, 02:59 PM   #2
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I use a B&W slider hitch that can be adjusted to 17inches. I found that most other hitches, especially with a slider were higher. My Jayco also has a Moryde pin box.
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Old 11-07-2017, 08:45 PM   #3
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I have a 2017 F250 FX4 off road with 20" tires. Height to bed rails is 60". We just purchased a 28.5 HT. The FW has 16" tires, Mor/ryde in the top hole and the suspension in the bottom hanger. The dealer installed a Pro Eagle hitch and we have a standard pin box. We have 5 1/2" to 6" clearance. Ours rides almost level. I've attached a pic.
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:37 PM   #4
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There's many threads on this subject. I have the same truck pulling a 2016 29.5bhds and had to put 4 inch blocks under the camper. You won't be able to fix this on the front end, you have to raise the back end up. I'm glad I didn't go any higher than 4 inches although it could've used 5 or 6 in. I'm almost level and it tows great. Cost me about $600 to have a shop do it for me. It's not just the Ram pick ups that are having this problem. The big 3 are all ridiculously large.
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Old 11-10-2017, 04:04 AM   #5
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we have the same 5th wheel and pullrite hitch 18k..F250 6.7..We have the stock pin box and had to lower it to the lowest bolt.There is about 1 inch difference from the back of the coach to the front..I have 15 inch wheels (coach) and could upgrade to 16 and raise the suspension if I wanted but it pulls much better now...and looks much better while pulling..there should be about 5 inches from the bed rail to the coach so I'm told....
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:10 AM   #6
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We have a 2015 Ram 2500 and a Jayco HT 28.5RSTS. I was aware of the HT nose high problem when we purchased it so ordered the 16-inch wheels and tires. We ordered the Revolution hitch and it was installed as close to the RV as it could go from the factory. I then raised the back of the RV some by moving the axle shackles to the lower holes. That helped but it was still about 3-4 inches nose high. We had to travel to Colorado so headed out with that setup.

Upon return I decided to add the MORryde Correct Track to gain another two inches of lift at the axles. When I removed the shackle I discovered the factory brass shackle bushing were wore out already from the 3,000 mile trip! My guess is that there was simply too much side to side axle movement with the shackles in the lower holes. So when I installed the MORryde system I welded in three 3x2 inch 11 gauge crossbraces to stop the movement. I am now about 1.5 inches or so from being level with 6 inches of gap between the truck rails and the RV. Good enough for me!

Below are two photos that show how I welded in the crossbraces. I didn't want to weld anything to the Lippert frame so decided to have the braces welded to the MORryde brackets. I first welded in a piece of 3-inch channel to the bracket so I could get at the nuts from the grade 8 bolts I used through the brackets. I have only put on a few hundred miles since installation but so far it seems as though the trailer pulls better. After getting to Texas in January I am going to pull the shackles apart to check the new brass bushings for wear. I also purchased some extra brass bushings and a set of NeverFail bushings just in case there is still wear...but there better not be any!
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Jayco Eagle HT MORryde Correct track with 3 cross braces.jpg   Jayco Eagle HT MORryde crossbrace bracket w 3-inch channel.jpg  
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:35 PM   #7
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Thanks for your pics and statement, I'll show this to my shop. My 5er is scheduled to go in the shop next month so I'll post what I did to the chassis and what it did to the overall ride.
Chris
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNelson View Post
We have a 2015 Ram 2500 and a Jayco HT 28.5RSTS. I was aware of the HT nose high problem when we purchased it so ordered the 16-inch wheels and tires. We ordered the Revolution hitch and it was installed as close to the RV as it could go from the factory. I then raised the back of the RV some by moving the axle shackles to the lower holes. That helped but it was still about 3-4 inches nose high. We had to travel to Colorado so headed out with that setup.



Upon return I decided to add the MORryde Correct Track to gain another two inches of lift at the axles. When I removed the shackle I discovered the factory brass shackle bushing were wore out already from the 3,000 mile trip! My guess is that there was simply too much side to side axle movement with the shackles in the lower holes. So when I installed the MORryde system I welded in three 3x2 inch 11 gauge crossbraces to stop the movement. I am now about 1.5 inches or so from being level with 6 inches of gap between the truck rails and the RV. Good enough for me!



Below are two photos that show how I welded in the crossbraces. I didn't want to weld anything to the Lippert frame so decided to have the braces welded to the MORryde brackets. I first welded in a piece of 3-inch channel to the bracket so I could get at the nuts from the grade 8 bolts I used through the brackets. I have only put on a few hundred miles since installation but so far it seems as though the trailer pulls better. After getting to Texas in January I am going to pull the shackles apart to check the new brass bushings for wear. I also purchased some extra brass bushings and a set of NeverFail bushings just in case there is still wear...but there better not be any!


Great job!!


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