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Old 07-11-2018, 06:11 PM   #1
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Adding 2nd air conditioner

I have a 2017jayco 5th wheel 387RDFS LZ
Can a second air conditioner be added easily?
Anyone have info on that.? Thanks.
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Old 07-31-2018, 07:14 PM   #2
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It depends on your idea of what ďeasilyĒ is. Our 2017 28.5 rsts has the roof air ducted, vs having the air delivered directly from the unit. This restriction reduces the amount of air being delivered, which in turn does NOT keep the 5er cool in higher temps. We elected to have a second unit installed in the front bedroom, through the existing vent.
We were lucky, in that our unit was prepped for the second unit, having all the power connections in place. That being said, we were still charged 2 1/2 hours labor plus the unit itself.
Iím a pretty handy guy but still, not something Iíd do myself. One of the more difficult tasks would be just getting the unit on the roof to begin with.
All-in, it ran about 1300 and worth every penny. The 5er now cools off well, even in 105+ temps. We have low humidity here on the right coast, which does help.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:45 PM   #3
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Hello....our rig is similar to Newt5005's, just an 18 vs 17. We had our bedroom AC added at the dealer when we purchased it. Many blogs we read said "best thing ever" so we did it. 2.5 hours of labor seems fair. I too dont know much about electrical so for me, better to have a pro do it. It went right in where the overhead vent already existed. One negative, it's not vented so it's much louder than the main unit.
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:26 PM   #4
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Finejade, Hi. My 2017 27.5 RLTS had only one AC unit. I purchased a 2nd unit (Atwood 15K BTU non ducted) and installed it myself where the ceiling vent used to be in the bedroom. It was a piece of cake. The unit weighs 84 lbs. so I had help getting it to my roof. It took me 1.5 hrs. from start to finish. The best part was that I have a total of $673 invested in it including the inside plenum and Dicor sealant. and works like a charm.
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:30 PM   #5
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The unit weighs 84 lbs. so I had help getting it to my roof.
If you're a handyman that is the only challenge.
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:49 AM   #6
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Did you use the wiring from the exhaust fan to wire the unit? I know that is a 12v circuit but is the wire adequate to power the unit. I would need to change it at the panel to 120v
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Old 08-28-2019, 11:27 AM   #7
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The A/C unit requires 120 AC circuit. Ours was pre-wired for the air conditioner. I would not recommend using the 12 volt DC exhaust fan wiring for an air conditioning. Just no.
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Old 08-28-2019, 01:22 PM   #8
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I have a 2017 28.5 RSTS and it is a 30amp unit with only one ducted AC unit thats lives in the back park of the 5th wheel. I bought a 13.5K Ductless Coleman Mach 8 low profile AC unit. (8" tall) After UPS delivered 2 broken/crushed and cracked units in as many weeks and also taking them back I called Coleman direct. They shipped one to there closet dealer to me which was 85 miles each way and there own driver from there own distribution network was the guy that delivered it. So I finally got one that wasnt broken. (I hate UPS, they have NO business delivering anything heavy!!)


I prewired from the bedroom ceiling vent a 20 amp wiring bundle to the bathroom vent, to the kitchen closet, down to the garage and onto a weather proof plug thats mounted on the side wall near the garage door that accepts the female end of a 20 amp extension cord. I had another gentleman and myself walk the 90# unit up 2 ladders and placed it on the top of the kitchen slide out. We went onto the roof and carried it to the front of the unit.



Doing all the work myself probably took 8 hours total over 2-3 days. Running the wiring was the most difficult part. I also bought the 6K optional heater that went into the AC unit so we have either heat or air.



Only catch is that you have to run a separate cord when ever you want to use the forward unit. For us once it goes over 85 degrees its hard for 1 AC unit to keep up. I now have two 13.5 AC units on my 5er and didnt have to mess with the 30 Amp service.


Cost was approximately $1300 total.
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Old 08-28-2019, 02:23 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jim Smyth View Post

Only catch is that you have to run a separate cord when ever you want to use the forward unit. For us once it goes over 85 degrees its hard for 1 AC unit to keep up. I now have two 13.5 AC units on my 5er and didnt have to mess with the 30 Amp service.
There is an advantage of two power cords. Plug the oem into the 30 amp outlet, and the AC into the 20 amp outlet. Around here, 50 amp shore power plugs are not very common.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:32 PM   #10
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Thats kinda the idea. Most places we go have 50,30 and 20 amp choice plug ins. I have converted a Park Model Trailer to 50 amp from 30 and it wasnt that bad. However these 5th wheel have hidden panels and alot of areas I dont fully understand electric wise. It seemed the easiest way to add the second AC. Plus a guy on our last trip at a KOA had already done what I was thinking about and gave me good info for it. Just took a while to gather all the parts needed.
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Old 08-28-2019, 04:10 PM   #11
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The 120 volt power for the AC unit was in the ceiling. Once you remove the vent assembly in the bedroom, you will see this wire (Romex). Also, there is the thermostat wire in there.The other end of this thermostat wire on my particular unit was located in the hallway wall behind the light switch for the bedroom lights. I removed the switch from the wall to find this wire. I cut another very small hole with my sheetrock knife to mount my new analog thermostat for the second AC unit. Then just tapped into the 12 volt black wire (power) and the white wire (negative) to the thermostat. This wire is right there at the wall switch. The thermostat uses about .5 amp (minuscule).
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:46 PM   #12
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Along the same lines as the OPís post, we are also contemplating installing a second AC in our 2017 317 RLOK. Our unit is 50 amp and is prewired and ready for a second AC in the bedroom.

I removed the enclosure for the vent in the bedroom and found the power and thermostat wiring. I also found two sealed ducted ends on opposite sides of the opening.

We are looking at the Coleman-Mach low profile AC units. Iíve researched and read multiple forums but cannot get a clear answer to my question, which is; do these units allow connecting into the sealed duct ends at the enclosure?

Thanks
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Old 08-29-2019, 05:15 AM   #13
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My Coleman is advertised as a ductless model which was what I was looking for. I am sure they sell ducted models but then your going to have a big hole in the ceiling that the grate covers for the ductless one.
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Old 08-31-2019, 10:23 AM   #14
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Our two Coleman Mach Heat Pumps are ducted, FWIW.
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Old 08-31-2019, 12:39 PM   #15
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We are looking at the Coleman-Mach low profile AC units. I’ve researched and read multiple forums but cannot get a clear answer to my question, which is; do these units allow connecting into the sealed duct ends at the enclosure?

Thanks
Yes, as long as you order the ducted ceiling assembly which is sold separately. The ceiling assembly is what determines ducted vs non-ducted and they all work with the 14"x14" hole in the ceiling.
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Old 08-31-2019, 05:13 PM   #16
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Yes, as long as you order the ducted ceiling assembly which is sold separately. The ceiling assembly is what determines ducted vs non-ducted and they all work with the 14"x14" hole in the ceiling.
Thanks Grumpy. Very helpful.
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Old 07-07-2020, 08:08 PM   #17
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Jim, how do you hook up the ducts when installing the second AC unit ?
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:01 PM   #18
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Jim, how do you hook up the ducts when installing the second AC unit ?
I'm not Jim, but do you have 2nd AC prep? If so, the ducts are sealed off where the current bedroom vent hole is. If you don't have AC prep, you will have to get a Chill Grill that shoots into the bedroom only. Otherwise with AC prep you get one made for ducted ceilings. Here is a pic of mine after I removed the vent housing. The foil is covering the ducts as I had AC prep and it was on both sides. The hole in the rear was busted at the factory I assume to show where the wiring was...



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Old 07-08-2020, 05:44 AM   #19
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Since my unit was only a 30 amp trailer there was no pre wiring or ducts for the second AC unit which is why I went the way I did. At least I couldnt find any and I was all over inside that front vent space hole. I even went as far as reinforcing the hole with more wood supports to make that hole a tunnel that was very solid. I wanted some bite when I compressed the trim ring housing so the unit couldnt move at all and solid it is. Been working out well with the 2 AC units this summer in Kentucky.



Here is a link to all the parts I used for my install if anyone needs them.


https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ons-76385.html
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