Disc brakes on a 377, who’s done them?

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by CAG

As mention earlier and just my opinion but I had this done on the Cyclone a few years before we sold it and it was the best mod I ever had done. Since this comes in kit form and I hate pieces from this company and pieces from that company I am not sure why anyone would not just go with this in kit form.


https://performancetrailerbraking.com.

X2

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by CAG

As mention earlier and just my opinion but I had this done on the Cyclone a few years before we sold it and it was the best mod I ever had done. Since this comes in kit form and I hate pieces from this company and pieces from that company I am not sure why anyone would not just go with this in kit form.


https://performancetrailerbraking.com.

Because not everyone is the same. I didn't like the kits. None had nicopp tubing. None had SS p-clips or SS stone guards. They came with traditional rubber brake hoses. I also wanted 1/4" tubing from the actuator on. No kit offered 1/4". I wanted the Hydrastar actuator as well. I ordered parts from several vendors. Wasn't an issue at all. I got what I wanted and what I wanted to pay for without waste, cheaper than the kits. What I saved I used to towards the higher end parts I wanted that no kit offered. I also believe all the kits came with China bearings and races. I bought US made bearings and races.


Earl

[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by CAG

As mention earlier and just my opinion but I had this done on the Cyclone a few years before we sold it and it was the best mod I ever had done. Since this comes in kit form and I hate pieces from this company and pieces from that company I am not sure why anyone would not just go with this in kit form.


https://performancetrailerbraking.com.

With just a little effort, I was able to source the exact same parts they are supplying while saving almost $1k when factoring in the Timken bearings.

They seem to be marking up all parts from retail price to cover the work to bundle it for you. Which works for some people, but it wasn’t worth the markup for me.

[CAG]

I also believe all the kits came with China bearings and races. I bought US made bearings and races.

I did not find that to be true then but obviously things can change.

[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Because not everyone is the same. I didn't like the kits. None had nicopp tubing. None had SS p-clips or SS stone guards. They came with traditional rubber brake hoses. I also wanted 1/4" tubing from the actuator on. No kit offered 1/4". I wanted the Hydrastar actuator as well. I ordered parts from several vendors. Wasn't an issue at all. I got what I wanted and what I wanted to pay for without waste, cheaper than the kits. What I saved I used to towards the higher end parts I wanted that no kit offered. I also believe all the kits came with China bearings and races. I bought US made bearings and races.


Earl

Just curious why you wanted the larger diameter line? Thermal reserve? Isn't the hydraulic pressure easier to achieve with the 1/8" ID line?

And why did you prefer the Hydrastar actuator over the Titan? That's the last piece I am researching.

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by CAG

I did not find that to be true then but obviously things can change.

Our installer mentioned something to the effect it was Dexter and easily sourced USA made parts, but could be wrong. He gave me a list of all the parts used in the kit. Everything looked top notch and shinny, but I am not a mechanic, so easily fooled. This from their web site. I am satisfied


Dexter/Titan Hydraulic Disc Brake Conversion Kits
Contact us for the perfect fit for your trailer. We offer systems for any trailer with electric brakes: Travel, 5th Wheel, Boat, Construction, Horse, Cargo & Car Haulers.
All conversion kits include:

Dexter Brakerite EHB Actuator (formerly Titan)
Tandem Axle Brakeline Kit
Four Premier Disc Brake End Kits
All Necessary Installation Accessories
On-Demand Technical Support

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Just curious why you wanted the larger diameter line? Thermal reserve? Isn't the hydraulic pressure easier to achieve with the 1/8" ID line?

And why did you prefer the Hydrastar actuator over the Titan? That's the last piece I am researching.

1/4" over 3/16" is for less delay, faster response time. Hydrastar recommend 1/4" over 3/16".

I wanted the Hydrastar because of reputation, US made, and fastest response time. Also sold worldwide. The other units at the time I researched were China made or they wouldn't tell me, which means China. Also the Hydrastar could be made full true 1/4" with a fitting change from Hydrastar. The other units at the time didn't offer that. You could adapt their 3/16" to 1/4" but would still be 3/16" hole, so you wouldn't gain anything.

I also liked Hydrastar as you could by one with a extra capacity external reservoir so the fluid level can be seen without opening it. Or you can buy the external reservoir add on kit. It increases fluid capacity as well. I ended up with one without the reservoir and bought the add on extra capacity reservoir kit. So I have increased capacity and can easily see the fluid level from a distance.

If you have any more questions, let me know. I provided a link to my conversion on this thread.


Earl

[Pammac36]

I just ordered and recieved the HYDRASTAR COMPLETE T.A. 13" DAC. DISC BRAKE KIT, 7K #E7K-T1 from Trailer Parts Super Store in Delaware. $1500 plus shipping. Will be installing in the spring.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Pammac36

I just ordered and recieved the HYDRASTAR COMPLETE T.A. 13" DAC. DISC BRAKE KIT, 7K #E7K-T1 from Trailer Parts Super Store in Delaware. $1500 plus shipping. Will be installing in the spring.

I believe that's where I ordered my disc kits and the actuator. They had a really good sale on them when I bought. Think I spent 900 for them at that time.


Earl

[Lowmiler]

Ok, I’ve been taking my time doing this install ever since everything finally showed up a few weeks ago. All I have left is the wiring for the actuator.

Poking around in the upper generator compartment, I can’t locate any pin box wiring. So I tried a fish tape from the dome light opening next to the pin box (where I did find the wiring). But for the life of me I can’t determine how the wiring is running between the pin box and the main body of the coach. My tape keeps hitting boxed frame members.

Do I have to lower the skin under the overhang? And if so, won’t that just pinch the wires at the frame rails when I screw it back up? I know there has to be a wire chase in there somewhere, I just can’t find it.

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Ok, I’ve been taking my time doing this install ever since everything finally showed up a few weeks ago. All I have left is the wiring for the actuator.

Poking around in the upper generator compartment, I can’t locate any pin box wiring. So I tried a fish tape from the dome light opening next to the pin box (where I did find the wiring). But for the life of me I can’t determine how the wiring is running between the pin box and the main body of the coach. My tape keeps hitting boxed frame members.

Do I have to lower the skin under the overhang? And if so, won’t that just pinch the wires at the frame rails when I screw it back up? I know there has to be a wire chase in there somewhere, I just can’t find it.

I posted here about our install. I had someone else do it, but I was with him and his wife the entire time. He did just as you mentioned, fished the wires out from the dome light. He did not lower the skin but sure janked and pulled for a while

[RoadrunnerII]

On our Eagle I tried using a string and pulling back 1 wire with another attached. No go!
Tried a fish tape no go!
I ended up dropping the drivers side aluminum trim and loosened the panel under the 5th. The wire channel was not what I was expecting.
Wires ran directly from pin box sideways to drivers side.
Around a square corner just inside of the aluminum trim rail. They had taped and zip tied the wire bundle together along the side before going into the front compartment.Wires entered the front compartment right on the edge of the propane tank enclosure and ran down the edge inside the front storage compartment. I had to do so wiggling and get myself half in front compartment to see. Wires ran down and thru the wall to the battery disconnect switch. It was a snap to string the wires once you could see in the underside of the 5th. Fish tape over to pin box pulled what wires I needed. Then fish tape from propane compartment to the intersect.
So after removing and replacing the buytl tape on the aluminum trim and reattaching it. Then adding sealant along the edge of the aluminum trim, You can't tell it was touched.
Dunno on you model but on our Eagle if I need to do it again I will drop the trim and one side of the panel.
Yes I had to make a trip to buy the butyl tape and sealant... but it was worth it

RoadrunnerII

[Lowmiler]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I really didn’t want to redo caulk or butyl tape in the frigid weather we’ve been having so I kept searching online.

I found this video of an install on a Pinnacle:

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-full-dis...16-252-82.aspx

Here’s a screen shot where you can see the tech fishing directly inside the pin box mount area. You can see a screwdriver in there to hold the horizontal paneling in that area up and out of the way. I was able to successfully get through this area, too, using a fish tape.



All wires are run, I just have to finish a few terminations, and then I can bleed and wrap up this rather difficult project.

I was frozen to the bone, so I decided to stop and jump in the hot tub and recuperate.

[RoadrunnerII]

Glad you got it done.
You won't regret putting the dis brakes on!

RoadrunnerII

[jetlag]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Thanks for the suggestions.

I really didn’t want to redo caulk or butyl tape in the frigid weather we’ve been having so I kept searching online.

I found this video of an install on a Pinnacle:

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-full-dis...16-252-82.aspx

Here’s a screen shot where you can see the tech fishing directly inside the pin box mount area. You can see a screwdriver in there to hold the horizontal paneling in that area up and out of the way. I was able to successfully get through this area, too, using a fish tape.



All wires are run, I just have to finish a few terminations, and then I can bleed and wrap up this rather difficult project.

I was frozen to the bone, so I decided to stop and jump in the hot tub and recuperate.

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Glad you got it done.
You won't regret putting the dis brakes on!

RoadrunnerII

Glad you got her done. Our installer "fished" around for a few minutes, but seemed sure of where he wanted to go, lol. Hopefully a glass of vino in that hot tub to recuperate.

RoadrunnerII- X2 agree completely

[Lowmiler]

So the job is done, just want to leave some notes here for others who may plan to do this upgrade.

First, I am an ex-auto mechanic, so I know my way with a wrench, and this was a pretty long job. Hats off to those of you who said it was a leisurely 2 day project. Maybe if I hadn't done it in 30 degree weather, I might have been tempted to do longer days, but this took me about 5 four-hour days.

Second, choosing an actual brake kit can be pretty confusing. If you choose not to buy an all-inclusive kit (like me), you'll save about $1k, but you will spend several hours doing component research. To some, that is the allure of DIY, but know that what you save by piecing the kit on your own, you may spend in time doing researching and ordering.

Third, supply chain issues may play a role in your decision these days. Initially, I chose an 8k lbs rated Kodiak disc kit, but repeated shipping delays from e-trailer got me looking at other kits.

In the end, I decided to go with a 7k lbs rated kit (my axles are 7k Dexter). For $20 more I got full e-coat on the pieces, however, I had to "settle" for 1/2" studs and no oil bath for bearings.

Actually, this was ok for me, because I've never seen issues with 1/2" studs, and I saved almost $100 not having to buy 9/16" nuts.

Plus, there are a lot of failure reports regarding the clear plastic axle cap used for oil bath. When that cap cracks, you better have a back up or it's game over (oil all drains out).

FYI, the 8k kit takes a different outer bearing set vs 7k (same inner), but strangely it is a smaller bearing than the 7k kit (I had ordered the 8k spec Timken bearings separately from the brakes and had them on hand when the 7k discs showed up). Maybe that is to account for the threaded design of the snout to allow use of the oil bath cap. Either way, it's not a "beefier" spec to accommodate 8k rating, the 8k spec seems to only come from the 9/16" studs.

I also decided that I preferred the greased bearings because you never would have a sudden loss of lubrication like an oil system failure, and now that the back of the grease seals are visible (not hidden like with a drum system), I am more comfortable using the ez lube greasing system (no more possibility of unknowingly filling your drums with grease). Been doing it on my boat trailer for years with discs and never had grease come out the back, but if it did, I'll now see it on the camper.

Monitoring the oil bath is actually not that easy, you have to pop out the cap on the wheel centers to see in there. The allure of oil bath with the less than 10k miles/year traveling that I do just seemed to fade the more I thought about it.

I ended up using the 2/H-133-7-8-REE Kodiak kit, installed Timken bearings and races, and used the Hydrastar actuator. All in, including lines, fluids, wiring breaker, tax, it was $2,281.82 (plus a lot of labor!).

I'm tucked away in my home parking spot for the next couple months, so no comment on performance yet, but I've yet to see a legit negative review of this upgrade, so I'm not worried about that.

Edit: some of the time spent during install was welding up the failing spring hanger cross braces, and installing a Morryde x-brace on the center shackle, so maybe deduct a couple hours from the overall time.

[RDTC]

Lowmiler, looks like you did a great job. Nice documentation for anyone else.

I did the same install. It took about the same amount of time, 5 days. I work slow and am very detailed.

One caution on initial driving. Set your brake controller down a few levels. Work your way up to the optimal level.

[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by RDTC

Lowmiler, looks like you did a great job. Nice documentation for anyone else.

I did the same install. It took about the same amount of time, 5 days. I work slow and am very detailed.

One caution on initial driving. Set your brake controller down a few levels. Work your way up to the optimal level.

Roger that, I planned on really dialing it down and working up. Have read about people flat spotting tires when they underestimate the new braking force.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

So the job is done, just want to leave some notes here for others who may plan to do this upgrade.

First, I am an ex-auto mechanic, so I know my way with a wrench, and this was a pretty long job. Hats off to those of you who said it was a leisurely 2 day project. Maybe if I hadn't done it in 30 degree weather, I might have been tempted to do longer days, but this took me about 5 four-hour days.

Second, choosing an actual brake kit can be pretty confusing. If you choose not to buy an all-inclusive kit (like me), you'll save about $1k, but you will spend several hours doing component research. To some, that is the allure of DIY, but know that what you save by piecing the kit on your own, you may spend in time doing researching and ordering.

Third, supply chain issues may play a role in your decision these days. Initially, I chose an 8k lbs rated Kodiak disc kit, but repeated shipping delays from e-trailer got me looking at other kits.

In the end, I decided to go with a 7k lbs rated kit (my axles are 7k Dexter). For $20 more I got full e-coat on the pieces, however, I had to "settle" for 1/2" studs and no oil bath for bearings.

Actually, this was ok for me, because I've never seen issues with 1/2" studs, and I saved almost $100 not having to buy 9/16" nuts.

Plus, there are a lot of failure reports regarding the clear plastic axle cap used for oil bath. When that cap cracks, you better have a back up or it's game over (oil all drains out).

FYI, the 8k kit takes a different outer bearing set vs 7k (same inner), but strangely it is a smaller bearing than the 7k kit (I had ordered the 8k spec Timken bearings separately from the brakes and had them on hand when the 7k discs showed up). Maybe that is to account for the threaded design of the snout to allow use of the oil bath cap. Either way, it's not a "beefier" spec to accommodate 8k rating, the 8k spec seems to only come from the 9/16" studs.

I also decided that I preferred the greased bearings because you never would have a sudden loss of lubrication like an oil system failure, and now that the back of the grease seals are visible (not hidden like with a drum system), I am more comfortable using the ez lube greasing system (no more possibility of unknowingly filling your drums with grease). Been doing it on my boat trailer for years with discs and never had grease come out the back, but if it did, I'll now see it on the camper.

Monitoring the oil bath is actually not that easy, you have to pop out the cap on the wheel centers to see in there. The allure of oil bath with the less than 10k miles/year traveling that I do just seemed to fade the more I thought about it.

I ended up using the 2/H-133-7-8-REE Kodiak kit, installed Timken bearings and races, and used the Hydrastar actuator. All in, including lines, fluids, wiring breaker, tax, it was $2,281.82 (plus a lot of labor!).

I'm tucked away in my home parking spot for the next couple months, so no comment on performance yet, but I've yet to see a legit negative review of this upgrade, so I'm not worried about that.

Edit: some of the time spent during install was welding up the failing spring hanger cross braces, and installing a Morryde x-brace on the center shackle, so maybe deduct a couple hours from the overall time.

Nice job lowmiler!
Welcome to the disc brakes club

RoadrunnerII