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Old 03-15-2016, 05:28 AM   #81
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Klassic, this might seem like a desperate measure, but have you tried pulling the trailer's emergency brake pin, then pulling with your truck to see if the brakes are locked up? That way at least, you'd know the brake magnets are getting full power.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:57 AM   #82
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I just read ur post on the Ford site. Did Chrystal ever push the issue up the food chain ? With two different trailers and the trailer guy giving up all points to truck. There has to be some place by u a custom shop or there buddy who u can give a few bucks to to tow ur FW. Who cares what brand truck since u just want to eliminate the trailer. Call e trailer and ask them how to properly check your truck output volts and amps when driving and u slam on brakes. You might need a buddy to read meter that u wire into your plug. I would also run a separate ground. We know to look for 12 v but u also need the Amps. I would also ask e trailer about a prodigy with plug an play harness for ur truck. For $200 u can bypass ur factory controller but first do a full electrical check
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:04 AM   #83
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I down loaded the break in procedure for my new Lippert brakes. It says to set the gain than drive 40 and use just the brake lever to stop with. Drive a mile to cool and do this about ten times. Now the hard part where to find a road in Tampa bay to do that!!!!
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:16 AM   #84
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If I was close to I would gladley try to heip you, but I am in n. wi.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:06 AM   #85
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Down load the Lippert Manuel it has a troubleshooting guide and list how to check Amps an volts. Four brake system shows full on 12 v. 12 amp. Check the volts and Amps at ur truck plug and work from there. If u get low readings try a separated ground. If all good work back brake closest in wiring to the furthest away. They r saying to check using pin probes that go into the wires so that way you r applying brakes and you can see volts an amps
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:04 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by SmokerBill View Post
Klassic, this might seem like a desperate measure, but have you tried pulling the trailer's emergency brake pin, then pulling with your truck to see if the brakes are locked up? That way at least, you'd know the brake magnets are getting full power.
I have, but not while driving.
I pulled it in the dealers parking lot and could still move the wheels, but the truck is a diesel. Nothing would have moved if it was a gasser.
The dealers installer wasn't overly surprised that my truck could still pull the trailer. It held firmer then the manual slider on full, but still was able to move. Definitely didn't "lock"

So to me that test was inconclusive.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:13 AM   #87
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klassic
I just read ur post on the Ford site. Did Chrystal ever push the issue up the food chain ? With two different trailers and the trailer guy giving up all points to truck. There has to be some place by u a custom shop or there buddy who u can give a few bucks to to tow ur FW. Who cares what brand truck since u just want to eliminate the trailer. Call e trailer and ask them how to properly check your truck output volts and amps when driving and u slam on brakes. You might need a buddy to read meter that u wire into your plug. I would also run a separate ground. We know to look for 12 v but u also need the Amps. I would also ask e trailer about a prodigy with plug an play harness for ur truck. For $200 u can bypass ur factory controller but first do a full electrical check
Rock
It never got moved up the chain because those cust service reps moniter the US. They don't do anything when your in Canada. That's where it ended.
I tried Canadian cust service, all they would do is call my dealer. Nothing happened.
The dealer has conveniently lost anything to do with me complaing about an improperly working controller while the truck was still in warranty.
I never pursued it then because they tested it and said it was the trailer at fault. Thus my trailer shop did $1000 of work and testing to the old SOB. There was no conclusion. I just lived with it.
Now with the new NorthPoint I am reliving it, but the truck isn't in warranty anymore. The Ford dealer says this is how the controller works. They won't touch it without me paying. He won't call me back. There is no point talking to him anymore. He says this is how it works case closed. It is the trailer at fault.

I've checked the voltages, it seams to check out. 13.5v driving without the trailer...12.5v driving with the trailer.
I don't have a meter good enough to measure over 10amps.
But that's all just numbers.. There are voltage drops, connection points ground resistance. More factors.
Real world is my truck and my trailer equals poor braking.
Gowesley's same truck and same trailer equals good braking.
I need someone's proven truck that I know works to pull my trailer.
Real world money that has gone into this is about $2000. Still I don't have an answer. Equals frustrating.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:36 AM   #88
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klassic
Down load the Lippert Manuel it has a troubleshooting guide and list how to check Amps an volts. Four brake system shows full on 12 v. 12 amp. Check the volts and Amps at ur truck plug and work from there. If u get low readings try a separated ground. If all good work back brake closest in wiring to the furthest away. They r saying to check using pin probes that go into the wires so that way you r applying brakes and you can see volts an amps
Rock
Thanks Rock, I tried looking for lipperts bake manual but could t find it I had it for the SOB before (it all checked out by the way).

Here is what my truck is putting out on a Tekonsha brake simulator meter.
I don't know what it uses for a total resistance though.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:42 AM   #89
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Klassic

If I was close to I would gladley try to heip you, but I am in n. wi.
Thanks...You give me reason to keep looking for the problem. Same truck, same trailer, braking power how it should be, set at 7 feeling a little pull. NOT set at 10 and feeling a PUSH.
I've PM'd lots of people on the other site, but no one with the actual same truck and same rig.

What happens if you ride with your controller at 10?
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:50 AM   #90
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Where was that controller hooked up to. The truck 7 pin on bumper or at the control unit?
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