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Old 03-10-2016, 09:50 AM   #31
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I have done the voltmeter check while parked and moving without the trailer connected
I get full (above 13v) when I squeeze it parked, then it drops to 6v
While moving I get full when I squeeze it and it doesn't drop off. When I stomp the pedal it goes to full. Brake pressure in between, the voltage varies proportionally.

Controller is putting out as much voltage as the alternator is putting out. 13.6 volts should certainly make those magnets grab, right?
Well it doesn't.

I'm waiting for the weather to get better to measure the voltage while I am actually pulling the trailer. I need to see if the voltage gets wonky when there is an inductive load (magnet coils) applied to the controller.
If it remains at 13.6, then I give up. It can't send out any more voltage to the trailer.
Anyone with any theories, let me hear. Or if I am not thinking right, let me know.

Sorry to hijack your thread Rock.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:21 AM   #32
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I would check the voltage at each brake plug. If the drum and magnet r good it should stop. I would take a battery and plug it into the trailer plug brake pin connector and see if u can move the FW than check each brake plug connector for battery voltage. The ground from Rv back to truck could be bad
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:43 AM   #33
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You guys have probably already checked this but what size wire do you have connecting all the brakes? On mine, the wiring to the first brake (left front) was direct from the connector and looked to be about number 12. However, from there to the other brakes it was pretty small. I rewired it all with #12 and it made quite a difference in stopping power with no other changes. A little resistance in the wiring or connections can have a big impact. Just a thought...
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:09 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfoot View Post
You guys have probably already checked this but what size wire do you have connecting all the brakes? On mine, the wiring to the first brake (left front) was direct from the connector and looked to be about number 12. However, from there to the other brakes it was pretty small. I rewired it all with #12 and it made quite a difference in stopping power with no other changes. A little resistance in the wiring or connections can have a big impact. Just a thought...
I've thought about that too.. But being no one else is complaing about their brand new NorthPoint/Pinnacle, there should be no difference in mine.

The big indicator for me was as soon as I got this truck I had poor braking on my previous rig. The SOB was perfect with my previous 2009 f350
This was one of the reasons I traded in my previous trailer and bought the NorthPoint. I was sick of fighting the brake issue.
New trailer...same issue.

There is WAY more to this story but it is long and confusing. The funny part about it is it involves Dalengail It's quite ironic that I joined this forum and picked him out from a screen name and my brake issue started 5 years ago when I met him... Again, long story.

Thanks for helping. All thoughts are welcome
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:14 AM   #35
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After what u just said hook a battery directly to the trailer plug and see if u can move FW. If all is good get an aftermarket controller and disconnect factory one .
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:19 AM   #36
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Without good brakes I would not go anywhere. I have added a dash cam after an almost rear end I had last year towing to my camp. U can only do so much when some Moroon passes u pulls right in front than slams on brakes to turn. After that almost accident I got the camera. If it ever happens again I will have proof of why I ass ended someone while towing.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:27 AM   #37
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I've done that by pulling the disconnect plug. I can still move the trailer, but MUCH more resistance. The wheels don't skid, but my truck could pull a house over.

The dealer spent almost a day playing with this issue, upon approval from Jayco. And then a little more
They say it's the truck. Ford says it's the trailer.
I say I don't have enough money to pay anyone to figure this out.
I tried to get Ford to do something when the truck was 6 months old (part of the long story).. Now it's out of warranty, and I'm not paying for them to look at it when they have no clue how a brake controller is suppose to work, let alone know how to test it.

I'm reluctant to put in a controller because I don't want to pay for it, I don't think I should have to, and if I use an adapter to the Ford harness I won't be sure that the Ford wiring is isn't the problem, if it doesn't work. So I will have wasted money on a new controller.
And again, I don't think I should have to pay for it.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:37 AM   #38
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Klassic, I haven't read this whole thread, but have you or anyone checked all the wiring and wire connections from the front end of the trailer to each brake? On my TT, the wire is routed through the middle of the axles from one side to the other. There have been reports of the wire inside the axle chafing and shorting out. That would definitely cause problems, as would bad electrical connections anywhere in the circuit.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:53 AM   #39
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Thank Bill.
I'm assuming when my dealer was checking the brakes that part of it would have been checking the magnet ohms as a whole from the 7 way.
This was done a week after I took off the lot. I knew the issue was still there as I dove it off the lot.
I would find it too coincidental that both my trailers have the same chaffing problem...this one brand new and my SOB having brand new axels installed at the factory and a having a trailer shop work on it after for 10 hours trying to find the problem. And changing the newly installed Lippert brakes with Dexters.
Then not charging me a dime for all that work because he couldn't find the problem.
Way too coincidental.
Points back at the Ford. Again why I said I'm not crazy about installing a new controller because maybe the Ford wiring is the problem.
I could solve this if I new somebody with a known working heavy 5ver that I could pull. And they pull mine.
The dealer is no help with that plan.
5 years I've been waiting for such a moment, I'm not asking someone I don't know in a campground to do it.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:04 PM   #40
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Klassic you should start a thread on this to get some more ideas. I am in a similar situation with our trailer. Very poor braking.

You have given me a few things to test though so thanks.

Cheers
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