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Old 10-09-2013, 10:36 AM   #11
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Well, I took off all the panels in the basement and got a good look at the ductwork. There were no obstructions but a multitude of bends in the bedroom duct. The bathroom register is the only one that has a damper on it so my thought was to replace that one with the one closest to the furnace. However, the ductwork is glued to the vents and looks like a real pain to remove. My bottom line on this is that the furnace blower motor is too weak to supply any kind of air force all the way to the front of the unit. Next step...electric blanket
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:38 PM   #12
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We use an electric blanket when hooked up and a down comforter when boondocking. Our bedroom heat works well, but we usually use an electric heater when hooked up and a Mr. Heater when not. We feel there is little point in heating the bedroom.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
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I would prefer LESS heat in our bedroom and more in the bathroom.
We have the HT 23.5 with rear bath and the bedroom is just behind the furnace. HOT!
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:13 PM   #14
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You might want to be careful in closing off vents. If the furnace cant push the air out of the heat chamber you could get into an overheated chamber and the furnace would shutdown, all being well. If you can access the area where the vents attach to the furnace make sure the bedroom is at the topmost position, this has the most heat and all the joins there, at least on mine are not very air tight. My issue is little air flow to the main living area, again the furthest point from the furnace. Its a design issue.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearles View Post
Its a design issue.
Agreed!
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:45 PM   #16
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You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.

Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:51 AM   #17
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Duct Fans - internal and external...

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Old 12-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers View Post
You can buy duct fans in all shapes, sizes and voltages. They are frequently used in applications where extended runs and back pressure affect airflow. You install them to come on and off with the furnace fan.

Had numerous photo examples ready to upload...but I'm on a different computer and the forum picture utility doesn't like my browser (or vice-versa)
Thanks for the info! I'll look into one of those in-line units. The unit that adds on to the outside would not work cuz the vent is right at the foot of the bed and it would stick out too far. They only give about a foot of walking room there so I'd be stubbing my toe all the time...wait a minute, DW would be stubbing her toe all the time (on her side of the bed )
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:23 PM   #19
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1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.

2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:

1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.

2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.

3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.

Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #20
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Quote:
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1. A 2012 trailer should still be under warranty. Get the dealer to fix it.

2. There's no way that the furnace fan should have a problem getting air to the front bedroom of a 26' trailer, especially if the furnace is located somewhere near the middle of the trailer. You have either:

1. Duct slipped off the ring at the furnace.



2. Duct has come loose or is torn between the furnace and the register.

3. The duct has an excessive amount of bends or some kinks and needs to be re-routed/straightened. This will require that the coroplast be dropped under the trailer so you can inspect the entire length of duct, should you decide to do it yourself.

Don't block off existing registers trying to force heat to the front. This can create a dangerous condition in the furnace.

Even though the model is an HT26.5 it is actually 30' long and the furnace is as far to the rear of the RV as it can get so it is a long way to the front. Our previous SOB had a mid-unit furnace that did a pretty good job of distributing heat evenly. I've been able to inspect all but about 8 feet of the ductwork and there are no tears in the sections I can see and all ductwork is securely connected to the furnace and registers. As for bends...WOW there are a lot of bends but I see no way of re-routing any of the ductwork. There's just too much "stuff" cramed in there. I would never cover one duct in order to supply more air to other parts of the RV. However, I am wondering why the supply register in the bathroom has a damper and can be closed off completely. Maybe I'll call the manufacturer about that one.
Your advice about taking it to a dealer for warranty work may be the answer...but for now, the short term answer is electric blanket
Thanks!
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