Solar Install Preparation

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

Yes I am going with Battle Born and will most likely jump into the Victron Multiplus 3000 charger/converter to upgrade from the PD charger/converter.

Do you really need a Multiplus 3000, you will need 0000 wire and it will be a pain to wire up 6 batteries. I run a 2,000 watt inverter myself.

[Sola123]

Scottenj......thanks for your quick reply.....so if I backed off to two 175 watt panels and one 100 watt panel I would have better safety margin....can I stay with parallel connections or do I need to then wire in series?....since panels are different wattage?....

Seems might be better to replace wire coming up to the solar prep on roof to bigger wire...

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Sola123

Scottenj......thanks for your quick reply.....so if I backed off to two 175 watt panels and one 100 watt panel I would have better safety margin....can I stay with parallel connections or do I need to then wire in series?....since panels are different wattage?....

Seems might be better to replace wire coming up to the solar prep on roof to bigger wire...

You could buy 24v panels and cut your amps in half vs using 12v panels. That would give you more margin on the factory 8ga. See my previous post. You'd also be able to run them in parallel. Series is too iffy. Only takes some shading on a panel or two to wipe out your wattage generated.


Earl

[NYRV'R]

Originally Posted by Scottenj

Do you really need a Multiplus 3000, you will need 0000 wire and it will be a pain to wire up 6 batteries. I run a 2,000 watt inverter myself.

After researching the Victron MultiPlus more I realized it can not handle the full 50 amp, 4 wire (2 hot legs) shore power, leaving one leg of the 50 amp wire unused. According to both Victron and Battleborn, 2/0 wire is okay to use with the batteries.

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

After researching the Victron MultiPlus more I realized it can not handle the full 50 amp, 4 wire (2 hot legs) shore power, leaving one leg of the 50 amp wire unused. According to both Victron and Battleborn, 2/0 wire is okay to use with the batteries.

For the 12 volt version of the Multiplus the manual calls for 2 x 50mm2 wires. That is 100mm2 and that is more than 000, less than 0000.

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by Sola123

Scottenj......thanks for your quick reply.....so if I backed off to two 175 watt panels and one 100 watt panel I would have better safety margin....can I stay with parallel connections or do I need to then wire in series?....since panels are different wattage?....

Seems might be better to replace wire coming up to the solar prep on roof to bigger wire...

Its not really a good idea to mix different panels, if they are the same voltage you could put them in parallel but I would either go with 24 volt panels like Earl suggested or put in four panels with a mix of series and parallel. I have 800 watts from 4 panels, I have 2 series pairs that are then in parallel and that produces 19 amps.

My set up is written up here: https://www.scottenjones.com/JaycoEa...QSUpgrades.pdf

You could upsize the wire but that will be a difficult project with the way it is routed, at least on my unit.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Scottenj

You could upsize the wire but that will be a difficult project with the way it is routed, at least on my unit.

Or, like I mentioned in the first reply, use the roof connector for half the panels and drop another 12guage pair for more panels down a vent pipe and reconnect to parallel in the basement.
You could also then make a switch, if you want to be fancy, and go between series and parallel setups when you wanted to.
I guess the model of your trailer might not line up as easy as NorthPoints to grab the wires in the basement.

[deepsea5]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

After researching the Victron MultiPlus more I realized it can not handle the full 50 amp, 4 wire (2 hot legs) shore power, leaving one leg of the 50 amp wire unused. According to both Victron and Battleborn, 2/0 wire is okay to use with the batteries.

There is a full time RV living YouTube family that goes by Less Junk More Journey. I believe they run 2 Victron MultiPlus 30 Amp units in their 5th wheel.

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by deepsea5

There is a full time RV living YouTube family that goes by Less Junk More Journey. I believe they run 2 Victron MultiPlus 30 Amp units in their 5th wheel.

2 Multiplus 3000s is a lot of money for capability you are very unlikely to need. Also inverters draw power even when there is no load, 2 inverters will draw down your battery at idle twice as fast.

I put in a 50 amp 4 wire transfer switch, a 2,000 watt inverter bridged to supply both legs and upgraded the converter in my power panel, it works great.

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by klassic

Or, like I mentioned in the first reply, use the roof connector for half the panels and drop another 12guage pair for more panels down a vent pipe and reconnect to parallel in the basement.
You could also then make a switch, if you want to be fancy, and go between series and parallel setups when you wanted to.
I guess the model of your trailer might not line up as easy as NorthPoints to grab the wires in the basement.

Or buy the right panels and wire them correctly and use the existing wire. If you get the voltage up high enough you can run over a 1,000 watts through the existing wiring, I run 800 watts at 19 amps on my rig.

[klassic]

Originally Posted by Scottenj

Or buy the right panels and wire them correctly and use the existing wire. If you get the voltage up high enough you can run over a 1,000 watts through the existing wiring, I run 800 watts at 19 amps on my rig.

Yep. High voltage panels.
Mine are 36v
I ran the wire of one down the vent, so I didn’t have to run it across the roof to the roof connector.

I say put on big wattage panels, keep the mounting holes to a minimum.

[kcmusa]

Another thing, with panels on the roof, not tilted, you will never get all the rated power out of the panels. Maybe at noon with the sun in Arizona you may get 80%

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by kcmusa

Another thing, with panels on the roof, not tilted, you will never get all the rated power out of the panels. Maybe at noon with the sun in Arizona you may get 80%

I have 800 watts of panels mounted flat on my roof, during the summer in Massachusetts I have seen over 700 watts or around 90%.

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

After researching the Victron MultiPlus more I realized it can not handle the full 50 amp, 4 wire (2 hot legs) shore power, leaving one leg of the 50 amp wire unused. According to both Victron and Battleborn, 2/0 wire is okay to use with the batteries.

The MagnaSine Hybrid MSH3012RV Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger handles split phase 120/240 with 50 amps on each leg. You will need 4/0 wire to the batteries.

I upgraded the converter in my power panel for Lithium, put in a split phase stand-alone transfer switch and a 2000 watt inverter, and it works great for me. I do have a gas/electric refrigerator, not a residential one.

[Gizmopilot]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

Thanks for the suggestions on the MPPT. I have adjusted my plan to a Victron 150/60 MPPT.

I’m also a NY RVer.
I installed 960 Watts of renogy solar panels split into 2 480 watt arrays in series then combined to not go over the 30 amp rating.

I elected to use a Victron 100/50 for $323 vs the 60 amp version for the simple reason that you will never reach your maximum solar rating in the united states.

I checked with Battleborn first to find out if 100/50 could handle 960 watts of solar and they said as long as you don’t exceed 100 volts of input voltage it would simply dissipate the extra as heat.

I have only in FL got to 50 amps and it was fine and it only achieved that for about an hour on a several days.

I was down there for 2 months at the beginning of Covid. - If you are planning on adding more panels you may want to spend the extra but at 800 watts you will be hard pressed to hit the 55 amps discussed earlier in this thread.

Panels are rated for perfect conditions at the equator.

Keep in mind the charge controller will shutdown to the electrical draw when the batteries are full.

For instance I have been running my solar to provide power for my internet and remote monitoring while the power is off at my campground.

The typical draw is 38 watts 24x7 - When the sun comes up initially my panels provide trickle power that reduces the drain from my batteries.

As the sun gets stronger the panels make more power - when the batteries are full the charge controller reduces down to only 38 watts even though it could make 400 watts in Buffalo winter low on the horizon sun.

FYI - I also installed a venus gx so I can remote monitor my setup

Hope this helps explain a little better how this all works

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by klassic

Yep. High voltage panels.
Mine are 36v
I ran the wire of one down the vent, so I didn’t have to run it across the roof to the roof connector.

I say put on big wattage panels, keep the mounting holes to a minimum.

What panels did you buy? Not finding a good source of 36v.


Earl

[BeGin]

Originally Posted by NYRV'R

Sorry if this is a repost but something happened with the internet gremlins and it did not appear my first post was submitted successfully.

I have some basic questions for the Solar Wizards of the group.

I plan on install 4 (four) 200 watt solar panels on the roof, connecting them to a Victron MPPT 100/20 in the basement storage area utilizing the Jayco solar prep wires (8 awg). I will place disconnect and fusing between the panels and the MPPT and again between the MPPT and the batteries. Lastly, I would place a shunt and monitor off the neg side of the batteries to monitor usage.

Is it that simple? What am I missing?

Will the onboard standard Jayco converter/charger work with Lithium batteries for now? I plan on having 4-6 lithium batteries in the upfront storage area.

Next year after my wallet has a rest, I want to install a Victron Multiplus 3000 converter charger and Smart Phase Selector Switch.

Yes I have a res fridge hence the need for 800 wats of solar and probably 6 lithium batts.

Thanks in advance for your replys and recommendations.

That is basically what I am doing 4 panels (165 watt ea), Victron 100/30 mppt, Victron shunt, breakers on both sides of mppt, 2 BB 100 ah LiOnFe4 batteries.
I’m configuring the panels by paralleling 2 pair of 2 panels in series.

I did upgrade to the LiOn charger to replace the lead acid converter charger. As mentioned somewhere else here it is an easy exchange

I sampled no shore power last fall with my gen and a 200 W suitcase solar to charge batteries as needed and expect that this panel set up should free me from the necessity of shore power sites and hopefully using gen only in emergencies.

Bottom line is I’ve got all the parts and will install in May to prewired solar in TT .. I do hope it is as simple as that lol

B

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by Gizmopilot

I’m also a NY RVer.
I installed 960 Watts of renogy solar panels split into 2 480 watt arrays in series then combined to not go over the 30 amp rating.

I elected to use a Victron 100/50 for $323 vs the 60 amp version for the simple reason that you will never reach your maximum solar rating in the united states.

I checked with Battleborn first to find out if 100/50 could handle 960 watts of solar and they said as long as you don’t exceed 100 volts of input voltage it would simply dissipate the extra as heat.

I have only in FL got to 50 amps and it was fine and it only achieved that for about an hour on a several days.

I was down there for 2 months at the beginning of Covid. - If you are planning on adding more panels you may want to spend the extra but at 800 watts you will be hard pressed to hit the 55 amps discussed earlier in this thread.

Panels are rated for perfect conditions at the equator.

Keep in mind the charge controller will shutdown to the electrical draw when the batteries are full.

For instance I have been running my solar to provide power for my internet and remote monitoring while the power is off at my campground.

The typical draw is 38 watts 24x7 - When the sun comes up initially my panels provide trickle power that reduces the drain from my batteries.

As the sun gets stronger the panels make more power - when the batteries are full the charge controller reduces down to only 38 watts even though it could make 400 watts in Buffalo winter low on the horizon sun.

FYI - I also installed a venus gx so I can remote monitor my setup

Hope this helps explain a little better how this all works

I have seen over 50 amps of charge current from my 800 watt array in Massachusetts, I want every amp I can get plus I like a little design margin.

If you are barely hitting 50 amps from a 960 watt array that suggests to me your panels aren’t up to spec, personally I have had problems with Renogy.

I have also had Battleborn give me incorrect information about Victron equipment, I love their batteries but not sure they understand the Victron stuff as well as they should. Victron has a sizing ap on their web site and it specified the 60 amp controller for my panel specs.

[Gizmopilot]

I didn’t say I was barely hitting it - Mine Maxes out at 50 - what I tried to share is that even a 960 watt array in Fl sun it is only for about an hour or 2 of the total sun up time - unless you want to try and track the sun.

The second point is once your batteries are full regardless of the size of the array or charge controller it won’t produce more energy than you are consuming.

So how many hours a day is your controller in float or absorbtion mode?

I’m personally leaning toward adding a couple more BB batteries since I’m in float mode so much of the day

On a side note - I may be heading out to Bellingham MA for a Month to visit a sick uncle - looks to be about an hour away from you - small world

[Scottenj]

Originally Posted by Gizmopilot

I didn’t say I was barely hitting it - Mine Maxes out at 50 - what I tried to share is that even a 960 watt array in Fl sun it is only for about an hour or 2 of the total sun up time - unless you want to try and track the sun.

The second point is once your batteries are full regardless of the size of the array or charge controller it won’t produce more energy than you are consuming.

So how many hours a day is your controller in float or absorbtion mode?

I’m personally leaning toward adding a couple more BB batteries since I’m in float mode so much of the day

On a side note - I may be heading out to Bellingham MA for a Month to visit a sick uncle - looks to be about an hour away from you - small world

Yeah, it is a small world.

With 960 watts I would think you could actually hit 60 amps peak, that might only be 20 extra amp-hrs a day but personally I want all I can get.