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Old 12-23-2022, 04:58 PM   #1
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Wheel Bearing Madness

My tow vehicle is a Ford 2013 F250 4WD. It has been problem free for 75500 miles, until a few weeks ago. During or last trip, I started to hear a noise like a gear whine. I thought it might be a wheel bearing or the front differential. The mechanic just told be it is indeed the front left wheel bearing. I thought to myself great! A cheap part. Ford on sells it as a complete unit with the hub, rotor and ABS electronics for $600.00. I found aftermarket parts online, but they were still about $500 for new. What a scam. Forcing me to pay $600 for a $25 part.
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Old 12-23-2022, 05:14 PM   #2
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Unfortunately, this is standard practice across most manufacturers at this point for a full size truck. I just replaced both sides on my Ram in the fall and they were nearly $300/each my cost.

I did the 3-year warranty hubs from AutoZone on mine when I replaced them.
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Old 12-23-2022, 06:14 PM   #3
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I did my last truck and paid $395 per side and that was my fleet price from a commercial vehicle parts supplier...
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:32 AM   #4
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Unfortunately, this is standard practice across most manufacturers at this point for a full size truck. I just replaced both sides on my Ram in the fall and they were nearly $300/each my cost.
...
Been going on for a long long time this way.

We have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD, and they are this way. I believe that they are like $250/ea, and there are a LOT of these trucks out there. There is a plus side to these hubs, and that is that they are relatively easy to change...
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:35 AM   #5
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Does changing out the hubs require an alignment after the job's done?
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:41 AM   #6
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I just did this for a 2012 F150 also at about 75000 miles. An independent shop wanted ~$950 and the ford dealer did it for ~$750. The part alone was ~$500. Apparently the hub itself is only a few hundred (per Napa online) but there is also another gizmo related to the AWD/4WD system that should be replaced as well.
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:51 AM   #7
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... Apparently the hub itself is only a few hundred (per Napa online) but there is also another gizmo related to the AWD/4WD system that should be replaced as well.
I wonder if that is the ABS sensor? That is in the Chevy hubs, and is actually kind of a delicate connection. It is possible to replace just that piece, but you need a special tool to read the ring in the hub correctly, from what I understand...
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:52 AM   #8
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Does changing out the hubs require an alignment after the job's done?
I have never had mine aligned after changing them, and I have noticed any change in tire wear or ability to drive straight. That may not be the best practice though, but has worked for me..
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Old 12-24-2022, 08:06 AM   #9
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If you ever get in to doing them on a regular basis, this is a must have tool.


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Old 12-24-2022, 08:33 AM   #10
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If you ever get in to doing them on a regular basis, this is a must have tool.

...
Interesting...

I have never had an issue getting those out in my Chevy HD, BUT, that truck hasn't spent a lot time being driven in the rain and salty conditions, so it's not really all that rusted up...
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Old 12-24-2022, 08:41 AM   #11
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Interesting...

I have never had an issue getting those out in my Chevy HD, BUT, that truck hasn't spent a lot time being driven in the rain and salty conditions, so it's not really all that rusted up...
The salt really makes a difference here. I don't normally work on anything that comes apart easily.
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Old 12-24-2022, 08:43 AM   #12
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If you ever get in to doing them on a regular basis, this is a must have tool.


Best money I ever spent! It's hard to grasp the concept of pounding down as hard as you can and not being shy though. Seems illogical given the force being applied but it works like a charm!
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Old 12-24-2022, 09:43 AM   #13
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Best money I ever spent! It's hard to grasp the concept of pounding down as hard as you can and not being shy though. Seems illogical given the force being applied but it works like a charm!
LOL! I didn't fully understand how it worked until I watched a video. I was more concerned about him knocking the car off the lift!! He was really wailing in it, with a BIG hammer! It was really rocking on there!!!
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Old 12-24-2022, 10:01 AM   #14
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LOL! I didn't fully understand how it worked until I watched a video. I was more concerned about him knocking the car off the lift!! He was really wailing in it, with a BIG hammer! It was really rocking on there!!!
Yeah like I said, you can't be shy with the BFH! You have to protect the cement floor of your shop too. When the hub let's go, it drops like a Boulder. This is my most often borrowed tool...
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Old 12-24-2022, 12:21 PM   #15
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My 01 Yukon puked a front hub/wheel bearing at 75k. That was a SOB to get off. The other side let go like a year and 10k later. I learned from the first one, I used the power steering to pop it off. Installing the new ones I cleaned all the rust out and painted anti seize on lime I wasnt paying for it. This way itll come easier next time. Well next time showed up last year and about 80k later. GM ones lasted around 75-85k, aftermarket autoparts store ones lasted about the same mileage. Left side failed last year and that side was the first one to go the first time. When it failed this time, it totally failed. Fortunately it was right in front of the house. I was picking up hub seals and bearings for a week in the road and driveway. This time I couldnt get an autoparts store one, couldnt get a GM one either. I ended up getting Precision brand ones and replaced both sides at the same time. It was just gonna be a matter of time before the other side failed. The old ones came out easy peasy this time too.
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Old 12-31-2022, 10:35 AM   #16
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No alignment required. As long as the hub is properly installed.
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Old 12-31-2022, 10:56 AM   #17
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No alignment required. As long as the hub is properly installed.
Thanks! At 155k miles on my RAM I haven't notice a front bearing problem, but since I had a new engine put in this year and plan to keep the truck long term, it's good to know.
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