2016 Seneca electrical problem

[ripples2ya]

Hello fellow Seneca owners. I have a 2016 Seneca and after traveling all day on the highway in Thunderstorms, I am now having electrical problems. When I arrived to hookup, my rear AC, GFI outlets above sink and in bathroom, stove and microwave do not work. There was one master breaker thrown but no individual breakers. I reset the master breaker and still nothing comes on. I also was traveling with the generator on for AC and it had an electrical error, however it started back up later. Does anyone know of any other breakers or fuses that I may be missing that are not in the panel? Thank you

[Vicr]

Do you have voltage at the electrical panel (on the "line" side of the main breaker)when plugged into shore power? Your automatic transfer switch my not have switched back over after the gen shut down. If no power to the main breaker then check power at the ATS. This is all assuming you are plugged into shore power, correct?

[ripples2ya]

Vice, Thank you for that suggestion, I am hooked up to shore power and will check the voltage and the ATS

[ripples2ya]

Vicr, where would the ATS be located

[Vicr]

I believe like a Precept or Grayhawk they are under the bed. Or Google it. If you can find it I can find your issue. I've been an electrician for 37 and am sitting at home because my jobsite was not "essential".

[ripples2ya]

Thank you, I have to find a voltage meter, but in the mean time the front AC and Refrigerator are working off of shore power. Is there a way to reset the ATS by unplugging from shore power and firing up generator and then kill generator and plug back in to shore power?

[Vicr]

You can do that but the next thing you need to do is test to see if the main breaker has 120v to both poles. Are you plugged into 50a or 30a? Troubleshooting electrical problems is a methodical process so if this event happens again you will know what to do to fix/ prevent it. You do have power in the coach so the ATS is closed but the electrical systems in the 50a rigs have two legs and it sounds like one is down especially if you have rest all the breakers and checked all the GFCI's.

[ripples2ya]

Will do. Thank you for your suggestions

[RVermont]

What model seneca? In my 18 37ts the electrical are located below the bedroom cabinets. In other model they are under the bed.

If you lost one leg you should be able to look at the circuit breakers and every other breaker is the same leg. So 1,3,5,7,9 and 2,4,6,8,10. At least it would be on a house panel and I assume it is the same on these.

Could be a bad leg from the pedestal.

Also first reset the gfi circuit breaker just to be sure that is not a separate issue. Fully flip it off and then on.

[ripples2ya]

Thank you for the advice RVermont

[SloPoke]

ON the Seneca Electrical panel.. the main disconnect is in the center of the panel. These are built much differently than typical residential units. The entire panel is spit in half - the top is one leg, the bottom is the second one.

[ripples2ya]

Thank you SloPoke, That solves my problem because everything out is below that second prong. I just need to replace that second prong main breaker. Thank you also to everyone that gave me advice. I am a retired cardiac pacemaker specialist and unfortunately not much of a handyman . But since RVing, I am getting better

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by ripples2ya

Thank you SloPoke, That solves my problem because everything out is below that second prong. I just need to replace that second prong main breaker. Thank you also to everyone that gave me advice. I am a retired cardiac pacemaker specialist and unfortunately not much of a handyman . But since RVing, I am getting better

Check your PM... from a couple of days back

The main breaker, is a standard type that you can purchase at the Home Depot/Lowes/Electrical supply house.

I am skeptical if that is really the REAL cause - as these really don't fail very often. Yes, you might be able to reset that main breaker and get things working, but until a qualified electrician pulls that breaker out and inspects the buss bar that the breaker is feeding the other breakers on the bottom side, I would still be looking at other probable causes first.

A good meter and a qualified person who is doing the measurements is still needed first to isolate the problem. (the question I have is - are both the red and black wires coming in from the Transfer switch - into the main panel breakers showing a reliable 120v to neutral? I'd bet they may not -

[Vicr]

(the question I have is - are both the red and black wires coming in from the Transfer switch - into the main panel breakers showing a reliable 120v to neutral? I'd bet they may not -[/QUOTE]




I have already asked him that and he did not answer. It might be a bad breaker, it might be that the insulation was never stripped before being landed on the breaker, it might be a bad leg on the output side of the transfer switch, it could be an issue with one hot leg at the line side of the transfer switch and he might be only getting one leg of power at the pedestal.

If the OP is not comfortable, there is a risk of getting shocked, doing the trouble shooting then he needs to hire an electrician to find the problem.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Vicr

(the question I have is - are both the red and black wires coming in from the Transfer switch - into the main panel breakers showing a reliable 120v to neutral? I'd bet they may not -

I have already asked him that and he did not answer. It might be a bad breaker, it might be that the insulation was never stripped before being landed on the breaker, it might be a bad leg on the output side of the transfer switch, it could be an issue with one hot leg at the line side of the transfer switch and he might be only getting one leg of power at the pedestal.

If the OP is not comfortable, there is a risk of getting shocked, doing the trouble shooting then he needs to hire an electrician to find the problem.[/QUOTE]
Agree... that was why my post included this statement " A good meter and a qualified person who is doing the measurements is still needed first to isolate the problem "
We don't know if the panel is getting power on both legs on the input - need to trace that back to the source.

[Vicr]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

I have already asked him that and he did not answer. It might be a bad breaker, it might be that the insulation was never stripped before being landed on the breaker, it might be a bad leg on the output side of the transfer switch, it could be an issue with one hot leg at the line side of the transfer switch and he might be only getting one leg of power at the pedestal.

If the OP is not comfortable, there is a risk of getting shocked, doing the trouble shooting then he needs to hire an electrician to find the problem.

Agree... that was why my post included this statement " A good meter and a qualified person who is doing the measurements is still needed first to isolate the problem "


We don't know if the panel is getting power on both legs on the input - need to trace that back to the source.[/QUOTE]


I know. That's the method of troubleshooting i recommended.

[ripples2ya]

Thank you SloPoke and Vicr for the advice. I am asking an electrician friend to come help me troubleshoot it

[johnboy]

Originally Posted by ripples2ya

Thank you SloPoke and Vicr for the advice. I am asking an electrician friend to come help me troubleshoot it

Ripples can you let us know what the resolution is once its been resolved


Thanks,
John
Boy

[steve.jurnigan]

Most bath, kitchen and outside are all on one circuit. Sometimes the first receptacle is a GFCI and if it trips everything down stream is off. If this is the case that receptacle will have a reset. If not you may have a loose wire or bad receptacle. Good luck.

[ripples2ya]

Thank you JohnBoy and Steve, just waiting on electrician friend to come out. GFI in bathroom will not reset. Will let you know when I find out the problem