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Old 05-05-2021, 06:21 PM   #1
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Battery Disconnect Switch Not Working in 2014 Seneca

I have no power when trying to turn on my battery disconnect in my 2014 Seneca 37ts. I have disconnected the batteries completely, but now I am reading, that I should completely disconnect the solenoid itself. If anyone else has comments on a Seneca let me know. The coach has been working perfectly. I was doing some work on it today where I had to turn on and off the generator a few times to work on an AC issue. I turned on and off the battery disconnect several times as I was working on stuff, then it never came on again.

I have:
1. read several threads on the matter.
2. Checked all the fuses that are near the solenoid.
3. disconnected the house batteries completely and reconnected
4. was able to successfully jump the solenoid so I could close the awning and park the RV. (by doing this i have determined that the resettting fuse this picture alludes to is working)
5. I cannot locate any other resettable fuses that some threads allude to.
6. according to another thread, I have to also disconnect the solenoid itself.

Open to comments

Thanks in advance...
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:28 PM   #2
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Bad switch?
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:41 PM   #3
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I had the small fuse on the bottom left of the battery solenoid go bad once years ago, it looked fine but metered open. Replaced it and it worked again. A number of other Seneca owners have had their solenoid go bad and that model is Jayco-specific with the control module that is hooked to it. As you likely know it is a latching solenoid, it uses a pulse to open (shut off) as well to engage. It consumes no power until you command it with the coach battery switch If everything else checks out you may just have to replace it.

One other thing I noticed is that your drawing is for a later Seneca that has the Magnum auto-start system for the generator. You likely have the Cummins Onan EC-30 generator control/auto start system. Here is the drawing I requested from Jayco for my 2014. Somewhat different.

https://www.amazon.com/BATTERY-DISCO.../dp/B00YG5RNZU
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Battery area wiring corrected.pdf (2.42 MB, 15 views)
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Old 05-06-2021, 12:00 AM   #4
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If you do by chance need a new Disconnect, ther]y are a little cheaper here. I bought a spare from them to carry.

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...ay-lr9806j-bip
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Old 05-06-2021, 09:10 AM   #5
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You guys are awesome. I am going to try one last time to disconnect all wires to the solenoid today and see if that resets it, but am going to buy a spare to keep handy.
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Old 05-10-2021, 12:01 AM   #6
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I agree with tpastorini, ya'll are awesome.
I also recently had issues with battery cutoff, but opposite way. It did not activate.
I am new owner to 2015 Seneca & had unit in shop getting body work as well as multiple maintenance items. Batteroes drained & sulfated. Since i had not yet boondocked i had not noticed cutoff would not work. In fact, last fall, i had driven for 6hrs with gennie running so i could use the coach AC. Thanks to this group for that advice, all stayed cool in the cabin.
The opening statement by OP suggests he was trying to activate the cutoff, like there be a normal manual process to do so? Or was he removing a sense wire from control board as a test?
If there is a normal manual process, i sure would like to know it.
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Old 05-10-2021, 11:14 AM   #7
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Mine died in the OFF position awhile ago. I gave the solenoid a few raps with a hammer and it latched in to the ON position. I no longer use the switch by the entrance door to isolate the house batteries. Instead, I simply remove two leads from the battery tray (the solenoid is permanently stuck latched in). I use alligator clamps to hold the leads on the posts. Maybe someday I'll replace the solenoid or physically bypass it, but this manual way works for me (plus it reminds me to check the electrolyte level floats on my 6V batteries).
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Old 05-11-2021, 07:24 PM   #8
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Ok, final ending. Disconnected all of the battery cables again and pulled the breakers on the solenoid. Gave it a light tap. connected everything back up. All worked all good. I did purchase a new Solenoid as a back up. $60 bucks and a good piece of mind.

Right after I fixed that, I replaced all batteries with Lithium. Everything worked.
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