Fresh water loss while driving

[MD3]

Why 3 to a manifold to 1 pvc to 3 drains again ?
I’m not familiar with why this configuration vs just running a single manifold down to a drain.
I’d like to fix my water loss also. I’ve tried capping the lines but that’s a pain crawling underneath each time.


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[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by MD3

Why 3 to a manifold to 1 pvc to 3 drains again ?
I’m not familiar with why this configuration vs just running a single manifold down to a drain.
I’d like to fix my water loss also. I’ve tried capping the lines but that’s a pain crawling underneath each time.


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Well my thinking is if you ran the 3 lines into a manifold and loop a single pipe up, back and down that it still may be possible for a siphon effect to start. When I did this, my thought was that having 3 lines at the end would give you an air break to stop the siphoning. Like trying to sucking water through a straw that has a crack in it, the other 2 lines would let air in to stop the siphon. I don’t know if it’s needed, but it’s working

[MD3]

I’m up for what ever works... I’m tied of crawling underneath to cap the lines.
I need to route mine up over like you did. I can’t get into the tank where they come up and out the top like where others have put a manifold so I might steal your idea and do one on the end also.


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[gprapim]

Originally Posted by gprapim

i have a grayhawk 29w. I ran two of the three overflow/vent lines to a manifold placed level with the top of the water tank, outboard just inside the exterior wall, with a shut off valve. The third line, from the tank, i ran above the tank along the frame to the rear outside shower. I used a 5/8" hose and ran it up through the base of the shower. I left the end open for a vent line and ran it to the top of the shower. I filled the tank until the manifold flowed water and shut off the water supply. I let it drain until the overflow stopped draining and shut the manifold valve. When it stopped draining, the tank read full on the panel. Mission accomplished !! Just remember to open the valve when in your camping spot to insure that you have enough venting so as not to collapse your water tank from vacuum, with pump use. It needs to be able to breathe.
It works well and is very easy to make, inexpensive and a no brainer to operate !!

Sent from my iphone using tapatalk

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[Pacamoma]

How did you extend your overflow tubes?

[Rustynuts]

For me on my 2018.5 Seneca RB, the vents dropped down on the left front of the tank. From underneath I pushed the lines back up into the compartment and pulled the lines out by the wet bay. I then use a nylon coupler and hose clamps and lengthened the hoses about 12” and taped the ends of the hoses to a piece of pex pipe (or something rigid yet flexible) and pushed the hoses out the other side across the top op the tank. Then I built and attached them to a manifold.

[AKMX]

Here is what I did to fix the problem. Close the valve prior to driving and then open once at the campsite. Got everything from HD and took less than an hour to install. No more lost water while driving.
16 Seneca HJ

[gprapim]

Originally Posted by Pacamoma

How did you extend your overflow tubes?

I used these. They can be purchased in brass or nylon. All you have to do is purchase the proper size to connect to extra hose. The system works exceptionally well and is very easy to make and install.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by AKMX

Here is what I did to fix the problem. Close the valve prior to driving and then open once at the campsite. Got everything from HD and took less than an hour to install. No more lost water while driving.
16 Seneca HJ

VERY NICE job AKMX.

[Pacamoma]

Thanks. Looks nice and clean.

[BYRONS]

Originally Posted by robbbyr

an air gap in its simplest terms is a physical separation between a water outlet and the "flood level" of a container. If you imagine a kitchen sink and faucet, it is easy to visualize the water coming out of the faucet and falling into the sink. So the "air gap" is that space between the faucet and the sink's high water level. If the water supply was to somehow go into a negative pressure state (vacuum), it can't be drawn back into the faucet because of the "air gap". In a sense, a passive backflow prevention device. The manifold i fabricated and installed inserts that same "gap" between the vent/overflow lines and the water tank.

As far as to where your water tank vents are located i cannot say on the rb floor plan. You have more tanks than i do! On my ts they are very accessible by the simple removal of a panel from the outside compartment. Maybe another rb owner will chime in as to how you can access your vent lines.

In the meantime if you plug the outlets you will temporarily solve the siphoning issue, just be certain you remove the plugs before filling or using the tank!

can you please tell me how make a air gap manifold. Thaks byron