A/C not cold

rb2boxer · 07-16-2016, 05:39 AM

We are out for the second time in our new 314BHDS. It is very hot and humid. I started up the a/c when we got here and it started blowing cold. It got cool at best but the sun was beating on us as it went down. When I can in later that evening it was really warm and just blowing warmer air. The compressor was on but def not cold. I turned the air off and just left the fan on.

Is there anything I can check or ideas what might be wrong? Another 90+ degree day today. We may end up heading home with a baby and a 2 yr old.

Thanks!

Grumpy · 07-16-2016, 05:50 AM

Did you have the fan on high or low? If on low it may have froze up.

rb2boxer · 07-16-2016, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Did you have the fan on high or low? If on low it may have froze up.

Fan was on high. I thought it might have frozen up so I turned it off for the night.

justman · 07-16-2016, 05:59 AM

Like Grumpy said, it may have frozen up. Not sure if your new unit has the "quiet cool" or whatever they're calling the ducted return units these days, but if you have one of the "older" type units like I do that pulls air directly into the unit from the coach (no ducted return), you should be able to pull the cover off and use a flashlight to take a look at the coils. You should be able to see if they're frozen.

Grumpy · 07-16-2016, 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justman

you should be able to pull the cover off and use a flashlight to take a look at the coils. You should be able to see if they're frozen.

Also make sure the freeze sensor (white wire with metal tip) is stuck into the coil about two inches up and towards the left.

rb2boxer · 07-16-2016, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justman

Like Grumpy said, it may have frozen up. Not sure if your new unit has the "quiet cool" or whatever they're calling the ducted return units these days, but if you have one of the "older" type units like I do that pulls air directly into the unit from the coach (no ducted return), you should be able to pull the cover off and use a flashlight to take a look at the coils. You should be able to see if they're frozen.

It's the newer. Can't see from inside. Was able to do that with my old camper.

Dustdevil · 07-16-2016, 06:14 AM

On my old Dometic AC, the freeze sensor was clipped to one of the copper coil tubes. I learned through trial and error that the sensor was ok, but the contact between the bracket and the coil would become corroded from all the moisture. When it made bad contact, every dozen trips or so, all I had to do was reach up there and move it around to clear the corroded metal, and it would once again keep the compressor from remaining on too long and avoiding the freeze. I also learned that if the warm return air is pushed through the coil too slowly, like when your duct outlet deflectors were turned down too much (leaving too small an outlet space), the warm air moves through too slowly, and allows the coil to freeze much easier. This is especially true in humid conditions, for obvious reasons.

schiguy · 07-16-2016, 06:14 AM

Is there an air filter of some kind? If those get blocked with "building debris" or become dirty, your cooling efficiency will be greatly reduced.

justman · 07-16-2016, 06:25 AM

If you turned it off last night, it should have warmed up enough to thaw. Any luck turning it on this morning? Are you getting decent air flow from the vents with just the fan? If it's froze, there should be (logically) a loss of supply air at the registers.

rb2boxer · 07-16-2016, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justman

If you turned it off last night, it should have warmed up enough to thaw. Any luck turning it on this morning? Are you getting decent air flow from the vents with just the fan? If it's froze, there should be (logically) a loss of supply air at the registers.

No luck this am. Went on roof and pulled cover off. There is oil in the bottom pan. Think it's leaking from somewhere just can't tell where.

Grumpy · 07-16-2016, 07:23 AM

You definitely need a new unit. JAYCO and COLEMAN are very good about replacing bad units. If your dealer can't get you in quickly ask JAYCO about contacting a COLEMAN mobile service guy in your area. You may have to pay the bill, but they are very good about reimbursement.

rb2boxer · 07-16-2016, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

You definitely need a new unit. JAYCO and COLEMAN are very good about replacing bad units. If your dealer can't get you in quickly ask JAYCO about contacting a COLEMAN mobile service guy in your area. You may have to pay the bill, but they are very good about reimbursement.

Good to know. Thanks for the info!!! Really appreciate it.

shadester · 07-16-2016, 08:26 AM

May be a leak near the compressor. Seeing oil is not a good sign. (oops, didn't see page 2).

Gidor · 07-16-2016, 09:17 PM

I am having a similar issue what did you wind up doing?

rb2boxer · 07-17-2016, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gidor

I am having a similar issue what did you wind up doing?

Unfortunately nothing yet. I called my dealer and service is closed on weekend so they said the best they could do is for me to call back Monday. We were just out for the weekend and heading home today. it was a horrible time in 90+ Degrees and humid with 2 small kids.

Not sure when they will get me in but I can let you know what they say. We leave on vacation in 2 weeks so one way or another it needs to be fixed by then

justman · 07-17-2016, 05:48 AM

Yep, oil in the pan means it's time for a new unit. In your case, a new unit that actually works!

If it's any consolation, they're pretty easy to replace. I've installed two new units now...one in a previous trailer and another in my current trailer. The hardest part is getting the thing up on the roof. Since you have all of the necessary components already in place, it should be a pretty quick swap for a dealer.

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