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Old 05-31-2019, 06:41 PM   #1
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AC Converter breaker keeps tripping

Hi,
I have the AC converter breaker tripping in my 2007 31BHS. I noticed that when I reset the breaker Iíll hear a buzzing noise coming from the ceiling directly over my water heated enclosure. This also was the area that the original radio and tv were located. I checked on the roof to see if any powered accessories may be above where the noise is coming from, but there was nothing.
Iím wondering if this where Jayco May have put an electrical junction box to divide power to the electric water heater and all the other appliances. If so, Iím guessing that either a rodent may have chewed something or something has shaken loose causing a short that keeps tripping the breaker.

Just looking for any ideas before I have to cut into the ceiling looking for the short.

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:27 PM   #2
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I am assuming you are referring to your 110 to 12 volt CONVERTER and not a 12 volt to 110 INVERTER. The converters that I have seen had fuses on them rather than a breaker but that doesn't mean anything.

When troubleshooting any fuse/circuit breaker problem, you should remove all outputs and then connect one at a time to see what is causing the problem.

Most converters should feed a distribution panel where a bunch of individual fuses or breakers are used to protect different circuits. This is what makes me wonder if you are indeed dealing with a converter. The individual fuse in the distribution panel should be a lower value that anything on the converter and should blow first.

If you are dealing with an inverter, this is a different story. These are used to send 120 volts to a power outlet when you are not connected to shore power or are running a generator.

Inverters most often will feed TV sockets or other outlets. Before I would tear into a ceiling, try unplugging anything plugged into an outlet. Hopefully there is a problem with something plugged in rather than damaged internal wiring.

In any event, remove all loads before assuming the wiring is bad. If you have a dead short at an outlet, it can cause buzzing noises at various spots.

If you have additional details, please post.

Good luck!
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:37 AM   #3
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Yes, I’m referring to the 110 - 12v converter, but because I’m not sure this is the problem it could be anything. Currently I have the converter and the fuse/breaker panel exposed but still connected just to see if there is anything obvious.
The reason I think it’s the converter is because the camper had a charged battery hooked up and I had left it plugged into shore power for an extended time and now the battery is drained. Nothing that I know of had been left powered on.
When I originally found that the breaker labeled as “converter” had tripped I reset the breaker and heard that buzzing in the ceiling. As my wife and I were trying to isolate where the sound was coming from we had to continue to reset the breaker but now the breaker will only stay rest for a couple of seconds. I’m not sure how I could test the outlets at this point without the breaker staying open.
Just as a note I’d like to say that I’m not an electrician, but I have done several home electrical projects in the past working with a friend who is. I would have preferred to have an rv mechanic work on this but everyone I’ve called is straight out til mid July and we have several trips already paid for.
I did speak to an rv mechanic though. He seemed to think the same thing I was thinking. It must be a short causing the converter to not charge the battery.
Thank you for any help you can offer.
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:53 AM   #4
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Try disconnecting the output of the converter and reset the breaker. If the breaker doesn't trip then we move on to plan "B".
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:58 AM   #5
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Ok, I’ll try that and get back to you.

Thank you very much
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:18 AM   #6
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Before you go cutting into the rig, start as suggested, by removing the dc fuses to isolate what is overloading the converter.

There are no outlets involved. all DC except for the ac that feeds the converter.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logansrun8 View Post
Ok, Iíll try that and get back to you.

Thank you very much

Actually I'm trying to make it simple.

The first thing is I should've told to is to unplug the converter and see if the breaker doesn't trip. The breaker could be feeding something else.


Not to alarm you, but I don't know if you are hearing buzzing or Sparking ????? Usually AC will buzz, rarely DC.

Like norty1 said: Don't start cutting.


There are DC outlets.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:26 AM   #8
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I would also check the polarity of the cables feeding the battery. It is so easy to get them reversed which will cause strange things to happen.

Look on the battery case for the word NEG or the symbol '-'... This terminal should be the one that goes to the trailer frame ground... The trailer battery cable colors are BLACK for HOT and WHITE for frame ground. The automotive battery cable colors are RED for HOT and BLACK for frame ground... Easy to get mixed up...

If they did get mixed up it will blow the REVERSE POLARITY FUSE in the Power Distribution Panel and also an IN-LINE FUSE near the battery positive terminal. This may be a auto-reset breaker next to the battery terminal.

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Old 06-01-2019, 02:11 PM   #9
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Ok, here’s where I am now.

Plugged into shore power

Disconnected converter output labeled “to battery”, still trips breaker.
Reconnected output to battery then disconnected output labeled “to 12v system”, still trips breaker. I could be missing the actual converter output though, not sure.

Outlets checked with multimeter
Kitchen #1 - 120v GFI
Kitchen #2 - 120v GFI
Microwave - 117v GFI?
Bath - 120v GFI

Bed #1 - .032v
Bed #2 - .032v
Bed #3 - .032v
Ent CTR - .031v
Rear - .032v
Dining - .032v
Fridge power - yes
Water heater power - yes
Fan power - yes
AC power - yes
Heat power - yes
Slide power - yes

Checked each fuse with OHM meter, all looks good.

Now going to check in line fuses at battery and test each outlet with shore power disconnected.
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:22 PM   #10
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So If I'm reading right.

Some plugs are .032v. For Example bed #1

Did you unplug the converter and try resetting the breaker?
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:24 PM   #11
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Also, what is the model of your converter?
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:43 PM   #12
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As I was saying before, Iím not sure. Itís obviously hardwired so thereís no obvious power cord to unplug. I disconnected the wire that went from the convert to the battery then tested the breaker, no luck. Then I reworded that and removed the wire that said it was going to the 12v system, still no luck. I may not have disconnected the correct one though. Iíd have to disconnect each wire nut connection randomly and guess which one should be feeding the system, I guess. The reason I thought the connection saying ďto batteryĒ was correct because I believe thatís solely from the converter.
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:37 PM   #13
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OK.

My 2007 had a power cord. If you get the model I can maybe help you out more.

Those outlets that are .032V has to have something to do with it. I'll try and find a print.
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Old 06-01-2019, 07:43 PM   #14
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I looked all over the converter but there are no markings whatsoever. I’m going to try to see if I can find something from Jayco. By the way, I ended up disconnecting all the positive connections, one by one, but the breaker kept tripping. Also, I removed all the fuses in the panel, hooked up the shore power, and still the breaker kept tripping.
Not sure where to go from here.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:09 PM   #15
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With the total lack of 12 volts to your rig there are a few easy tests to try. All readings are DC.

1. With the unit unplugged from power, what is the reading right across the battery terminals? Should be above 12 volts. This should be the same reading you get at all spots inside (slight voltage drop to be expected). If the reading at the battery is good but nothing inside, look for a battery disconnect switch or relay. That is what connects the battery to everything. If the battery is bad (very low), try disconnecting one of its cables and measure the battery again. If it is very low, it is probably toast.

2. Find your converter. There will be a couple of heavy gauge wires connected to it probably with screw terminals. With the unit unplugged, measure across these cables. They should be connected to the battery and read what the battery is putting out. A battery disconnect switch/relay may be preventing the connection. This test is basically to see if battery voltage is reaching your converter.

3. Converters are easy to test. Disconnect the wire connected to the 12 volt positive output screw terminal. Don't let the wire end touch anything metal. Plug in the rig and measure the output coming from the converter. With nothing connected it should be above 13 volts. I have attached the manual from the converter in my rig which sort of explains things. Yours will probably be different but still be able to put out above 13 volts with no sweat. If it won't put out voltage with the output wire disconnected and all fuses/breakers ON THE CONVERTER are good, the converter is bad. I had to go through this test on my 2017 Greyhawk's converter as it failed to get much above 13 volts and never got into its boost mode.

Basically you need to verify a good battery and converter with no loads before worrying about outlets.

You mentioned a buzz. If your battery is bad and the converter is trying to charge it, you may get a buzz and all readings will be very low like what you have. Fuses are there to protect all individual feeds in the coach such as pump, lights, etc. If there was something in a circuit that could pull battery voltage down to zero (like yours), the fuse would blow.

Given all this, I would say your battery is probably bad and the converter tries to charge it but the battery just pulls it down causing the breaker to trip. You should be able to run the coach on battery alone which is why this item should be fixed first.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Power Converter.pdf (169.1 KB, 4 views)
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:31 PM   #16
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I was able to get over 13 volts when I tested the battery directly. Tomorrow I’ll try each of the steps you mentioned and see what I can find out. I may have another battery I can install as well.
I don’t mind investing in a new converter, I’m just concerned that the buzzing sound in the ceiling may be rodent damage or something shorting out in the J box. If that’s the case I may end up back at square one.
Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:45 PM   #17
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JimD

Good Information

As for the buzzing, is it ceiling (roof) or the top of the hot water heater cabinet. The water heater has a control that can buzz.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:59 PM   #18
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Pretty sure it’s not the water heater. I’m able to power on the water heater with no problem and I’ve never heard this buzzing sound til this breaker had tripped. It’s definitely in the ceiling, there’s nothing electrical on the roof above. It makes sense that a J box could be there. It would probably be the best place to split power to all the appliances.
In my previous posts I had mentioned that all the GFI outlets have 120v, but all the others have next to nothing. Does that make any sense to you? Do these receive direct power when the rig is plugged in? Do the others require the converter?
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Old 06-01-2019, 09:20 PM   #19
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It's hard to troubleshoot over the internet..

Can't think what would be in the ceiling. AC Unit .
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Old 06-02-2019, 10:14 AM   #20
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Wiring diagram

Does anyone know where to get a wiring diagram? There must be a routing that the electrical installer follows for each model.
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