Jay Feather Micro 166FBS

[TomC_AZ]

Is it only in "groves" at the two ends but not in the middle? Thankfully we have not seen any issues like this and we have ours loaded down with prob more than the 9lb you mentioned. Looks like it needs screws instead of brads and some glue along with the screws.

On the photos I have found if I take a pic with the phone upright (i.e. like Instagram likes) the forum will always post it that way even if I had adjusted it on my phone. If I take a normal photo (phone flipped sideways) it always shows fine.

[JayLo]

Originally Posted by Alan1

Anybody else having drawer issues?

After a weekend shakedown trip I, needed to take the trailer into the service center for issues with the drawers not staying closed. Their solution was to put in Old School drawer catches in addition to the ones that are were mounted on the drawers.

Now, on a week-long trip, the drawers began having issues again. I found that the bottom of the largest drawer had separated from the back. Very disappointing to remove and find that the back end of the drawer bottom is just stapled up into the back of the drawer. So, any time you hit a serious bump with your trailer, all that force is transferred to pulling downward against those staple crowns--straight down with nothing to hold it in place other than the staples. I found that the thin plywood had just pulled right through the staple crowns. [I don't know how to rotate the photo]

That drawer is really large, right? In it I stored aluminum pot & pan, cutlery, and other needful things. Thinking that it was my fault, I weighed it. 9.7 pounds doesn't seem out of spec.

Rather than take this in for a repair, I think I'll re-engineer it myself.

Oh boy, I am going to have to pull out my drawers and check that. Does NOT surprise me. When you are done post a picture of you can!

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by Sleighman

Second weekend with our 2022 166fbs. Love it so far! Tows great (pulling up & down mountains with Jeep Gladiator Rubicon). Using weight distribution hitch and sway bar. Great size for two and 75lb dog. All the comforts of home while dry camping. Lots of storage. Keep finding features we hadn't noticed were included, like TPMS, TV antenna, etc. Significant modifications so far: extra battery, extra ground solar panels, mattress topper, motion sensor lights in cabinets, rearview camera. Issues? One marker light DOA, awning arms won't stay locked to give awning some slant, cupholders in couch arms not screwed down. Would change? Needs 12v USB ports by bed (power tower in headboard requires 110v).

Where/which camera did you buy?

What solar panels and do you mind sharing your charge controller setup?

[RV_for_donuts]

Hello all. New to this forum and Im a long time travel trailer owner but just picked up a new 166fbs yesterday. Some questions:

Can you use any 2 wire backup camera with the pre wired camera mounts?

For the solar, does that only charge the batteries? I read its prewired for an interverter, does anyone know where the wires are? I checked the manual and nothing.

Lastly, how does the front tongue port work? Is it SAE and I still need a charge controller?

[TomC_AZ]

RV for donuts, welcome to the board!

Question, does your trailer already have the 190w panel and 30amp charge controller? or just pre wired for it?

I do not have a camera so no input on that. I have been looking at both the Furrion and the Holoview but have not purchased yet. Like the Furrion for sleek looks (especially side cameras) but sounds like Holoview works better. I have the same trailer and honestly its not hard to see around, I just want them more for security. Both should wire right up to the connections from everything I have read. Depending on the truck you have however may affect functionality as I have read some GM's have some issues... (anyone with a GM can help here?)

Now for solar, there are bunch of different threads on here about that with various options etc.. Here is what I know:
1. Yes the solar only charges the battery.

2. Inverter "pre wire" is under the bed in the area that houses the hot water heater. (get to it via plywood panel removal under mattress closest to couch, you will see it)

3. Inverter, honestly it might actually be easier to tap in somewhere else and just power a few plugs. Or do what some of us are planning and revamp the whole thing and power the whole trailer via the inverter (if you want) including AC. (Under the couch has some storage that might be good for batteries or in the outside refrigerator area as well since that is 120v anyway)

4. The external port on the tongue is only wires to the battery, so a panel and a charge controller are needed to properly charge using it. Unregulated (no controller) may cause battery damage.

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

RV for donuts, welcome to the board!

Question, does your trailer already have the 190w panel and 30amp charge controller? or just pre wired for it?

I do not have a camera so no input on that. I have been looking at both the Furrion and the Holoview but have not purchased yet. Like the Furrion for sleek looks (especially side cameras) but sounds like Holoview works better. I have the same trailer and honestly its not hard to see around, I just want them more for security. Both should wire right up to the connections from everything I have read. Depending on the truck you have however may affect functionality as I have read some GM's have some issues... (anyone with a GM can help here?)

Now for solar, there are bunch of different threads on here about that with various options etc.. Here is what I know:
1. Yes the solar only charges the battery.

2. Inverter "pre wire" is under the bed in the area that houses the hot water heater. (get to it via plywood panel removal under mattress closest to couch, you will see it)

3. Inverter, honestly it might actually be easier to tap in somewhere else and just power a few plugs. Or do what some of us are planning and revamp the whole thing and power the whole trailer via the inverter (if you want) including AC. (Under the couch has some storage that might be good for batteries or in the outside refrigerator area as well since that is 120v anyway)

4. The external port on the tongue is only wires to the battery, so a panel and a charge controller are needed to properly charge using it. Unregulated (no controller) may cause battery damage.

Thank you for the prompt reply. I have the Go power solar charger controller; picture attached. Will that allow me to connect a solar panel straight to the tongue with no damage?

Also, dumb question is the side mini fridge 110 or 12V? If I add inverter to the "pre wiring" given I have the solar charger willl this give me 110 in all my outlets off grid?

Thank you all!

[JayLo]

Originally Posted by RV_for_donuts

Hello all. New to this forum and Im a long time travel trailer owner but just picked up a new 166fbs yesterday. Some questions:

Can you use any 2 wire backup camera with the pre wired camera mounts?

For the solar, does that only charge the batteries? I read its prewired for an interverter, does anyone know where the wires are? I checked the manual and nothing.

Lastly, how does the front tongue port work? Is it SAE and I still need a charge controller?

Furrion Camera back up camera to go with furrion pre wire. You can use other brands, but not worth the bother as they need different mounts or adaptors.

Hitch port is just an input so a go power portable kit with controller is needed. Or any portable kit with controller, etc.

Forum is starting to populate with a bunch of us micro owners, so you will find some good threads on inverters and solar in here.

There is a MAJOR known issue with the wiring under the solar Jack on the roof, see my earlier post about fixing this. So, make sure you double check your solar output and such. Not every trailer is affected it seems.

[JayLo]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

RV for donuts, welcome to the board!

Question, does your trailer already have the 190w panel and 30amp charge controller? or just pre wired for it?

I do not have a camera so no input on that. I have been looking at both the Furrion and the Holoview but have not purchased yet. Like the Furrion for sleek looks (especially side cameras) but sounds like Holoview works better. I have the same trailer and honestly its not hard to see around, I just want them more for security. Both should wire right up to the connections from everything I have read. Depending on the truck you have however may affect functionality as I have read some GM's have some issues... (anyone with a GM can help here?)

Now for solar, there are bunch of different threads on here about that with various options etc.. Here is what I know:
1. Yes the solar only charges the battery.

2. Inverter "pre wire" is under the bed in the area that houses the hot water heater. (get to it via plywood panel removal under mattress closest to couch, you will see it)

3. Inverter, honestly it might actually be easier to tap in somewhere else and just power a few plugs. Or do what some of us are planning and revamp the whole thing and power the whole trailer via the inverter (if you want) including AC. (Under the couch has some storage that might be good for batteries or in the outside refrigerator area as well since that is 120v anyway)

4. The external port on the tongue is only wires to the battery, so a panel and a charge controller are needed to properly charge using it. Unregulated (no controller) may cause battery damage.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f32/gopower-solar-not-working-fixed-but-dear-god-90733.html

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by JayLo

Furrion Camera back up camera to go with furrion pre wire. You can use other brands, but not worth the bother as they need different mounts or adaptors.

Hitch port is just an input so a go power portable kit with controller is needed. Or any portable kit with controller, etc.

Forum is starting to populate with a bunch of us micro owners, so you will find some good threads on inverters and solar in here.

There is a MAJOR known issue with the wiring under the solar Jack on the roof, see my earlier post about fixing this. So, make sure you double check your solar output and such. Not every trailer is affected it seems.

My RV has the go power charger inside so thats not connected to the front jack?

and thanks Ill check your other post.

[RV_for_donuts]

One more question and itll probably be the dumb question of the day but dealer didnt go over anything with me(Camping World)

What is the black key for? So far none of my doors seem to use it?

[Dkastner]

On our 166FBS, the key encased in black plastic is for the exterior door that covers the outdoor shower. When we bought our trailer, the dealer told us a reason why a separate key was needed, but my memory is vague on that point.

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by Dkastner

On our 166FBS, the key encased in black plastic is for the exterior door that covers the outdoor shower. When we bought our trailer, the dealer told us a reason why a separate key was needed, but my memory is vague on that point.

Interesting, I will try that thank you!

[TomC_AZ]

The solar on the tongue does NOT go through the internal charger thats on the wall. This is why any portable panel needs its own charge controller.

Ok here comes some RV politics... The black encased key is just RV companies being cheap!! I mean by like less than a couple dollars!

Goto https://bauerproducts.com/

This is the lock company that makes all of the locks for our trailer. They can make/send you extra keys as well so you are not limited to just the two you received with the trailer. Just send them the number stamped on the key and they can send you a new key for like $3.

Personally, since I park the trailer in a storage location I replaced each twist lock with a real cam lock. Each of those is keyed to the same key I received with the trailer. Had to add three. I also added a barbed cam lock and replaced that lock on the outdoor shower. Now everything is all keyed with one key.

I took it one step further and also purchased locks from Bolt, those key to your tow vehicle. I use one on the tongue and one on the ladder, since its removable I dont want it to disappear! I now only need two keys for everything on my trailer and I have those always with me.

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

The solar on the tongue does NOT go through the internal charger thats on the wall. This is why any portable panel needs its own charge controller.

Ok here comes some RV politics... The black encased key is just RV companies being cheap!! I mean by like less than a couple dollars!

Goto https://bauerproducts.com/

This is the lock company that makes all of the locks for our trailer. They can make/send you extra keys as well so you are not limited to just the two you received with the trailer. Just send them the number stamped on the key and they can send you a new key for like $3.

Personally, since I park the trailer in a storage location I replaced each twist lock with a real cam lock. Each of those is keyed to the same key I received with the trailer. Had to add three. I also added a barbed cam lock and replaced that lock on the outdoor shower. Now everything is all keyed with one key.

I took it one step further and also purchased locks from Bolt, those key to your tow vehicle. I use one on the tongue and one on the ladder, since its removable I dont want it to disappear! I now only need two keys for everything on my trailer and I have those always with me.

Super helpful thank you. So are you saying the black keys are also just for the shower from the factory?

And also I know its a big ask but any chance you can share links or pictures of the locks you used? I love the idea of one key to rule them all LOL.

[TomC_AZ]

Correct, the black key is the shower only.

I replaced the main door lock with one of these, it adds being made of metal the OEM is plastic. It also has two other options to unlock the door, the keypad (no key needed) and Bluetooth from the phone (again no key needed). https://bauerproducts.com/product/bauer-ne-bluetooth/

The three cams are these, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-cam-lock/
The .875 size is the correct one.

The shower is this one, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-barb-cam-lock/
I used the standard length one (the short is too short).

All of the locks come with a new key, that I had them make with the number off my trailer key.

I then got some of the little flag handles off amazon, dont have that link.

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by tomc_az

correct, the black key is the shower only.

I replaced the main door lock with one of these, it adds being made of metal the oem is plastic. It also has two other options to unlock the door, the keypad (no key needed) and bluetooth from the phone (again no key needed). https://bauerproducts.com/product/bauer-ne-bluetooth/

the three cams are these, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-cam-lock/
the .875 size is the correct one.

The shower is this one, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-barb-cam-lock/
i used the standard length one (the short is too short).

All of the locks come with a new key, that i had them make with the number off my trailer key.

I then got some of the little flag handles off amazon, dont have that link.

you are amazing!

[RV_for_donuts]

Originally Posted by TomC_AZ

Correct, the black key is the shower only.

I replaced the main door lock with one of these, it adds being made of metal the OEM is plastic. It also has two other options to unlock the door, the keypad (no key needed) and Bluetooth from the phone (again no key needed). https://bauerproducts.com/product/bauer-ne-bluetooth/

The three cams are these, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-cam-lock/
The .875 size is the correct one.

The shower is this one, https://bauerproducts.com/product/sci-barb-cam-lock/
I used the standard length one (the short is too short).

All of the locks come with a new key, that I had them make with the number off my trailer key.

I then got some of the little flag handles off amazon, dont have that link.

Which ones did you buy from BOLT?

[TomC_AZ]

I use the Bolt padlock (they only make one size of padlock) for the tongue and ladder. I also use their trailer pin/lock for my hitch. All key to your type of vehicle so make sure to get the right one if you go this route.

Here is bolts site, https://www.boltlock.com/ check to see what they offer for your vehicle brand.

I purchased from Offroad Warehouse they had the best price for RAM compatible locks, https://www.offroadwarehouse.com/

Amazon had a number of the other vehicle brand compatible ones so check there as well.

[RV_for_donuts]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this or know where I can find one. I find it funny that the front solar plug isnt wired to the charge controller as I can clearly see a wire going back towards it in the loom.

Id also like to confirm the pre wiring for inverter and camera. If the camera is just 2 wire they are super cheap off amazon and I can afford 500-900 for the furrion.

[TomC_AZ]

You can reach out to Jayco and confirm if you want, they are pretty easy to work with from my experience. They wont give you a wire diagram as that has to be requested from the dealer. IF you get one please share as I know a number of us would like one as well. We have had to trace out wires to figure it out.

On the front solar connection, if you look at that junction box, those wires are connecting directly to the battery. The wires do connect there as well from the "inhouse" charge controller but those are the "charge" or output side of that controller not the input from a solar panel. Thus use of the external port on the tongue requires a charge controller that is separate.

On the camera the Furrion is totally plug and play.