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Old 04-12-2016, 06:52 AM   #11
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You might consider carrying a 5 gal jug of fuel for your truck. Sometimes the gas stations can be far apart just when you need one the most.
Have a great trip!
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonedaddio View Post
snip...... I'm wondering if our 2008 Ram SXT 1500 (4.7 Litre, tow packages) is enough vehicle?? It's set up properly with a WDH and brake controller; it didn't feel squirrelly when I brought it home.......snip
Welcome to JOF.........

To eliminate all the guess work take your TV/TT combination under "loaded" conditions to a CAT scale..., the CAT is the only way to confirm if your Ram 1500 is an ideal TV based on your personal loading habits. The CAT data will also confirm that your WDH is sized and adjusted properly.

If it will be your first time at a CAT scale, rest assured the CAT scale is user friendly and many non-commercial vehicles utilize them. If you have never adjusted a WDH before, have a friend (w/tools) with you that is familiar with adjusting a WDH.

CAT Scale "how-to": https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

Once you have the CAT results and made any necessary adjustments, then with confidence decide if a new TV is in order.

Bob
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:01 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
Welcome to JOF.........

To eliminate all the guess work take your TV/TT combination under "loaded" conditions to a CAT scale..., the CAT is the only way to confirm if your Ram 1500 is an ideal TV based on your personal loading habits. The CAT data will also confirm that your WDH is sized and adjusted properly.

If it will be your first time at a CAT scale, rest assured the CAT scale is user friendly and many non-commercial vehicles utilize them. If you have never adjusted a WDH before, have a friend (w/tools) with you that is familiar with adjusting a WDH.

CAT Scale "how-to": https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...v-tt-3871.html

Once you have the CAT results and made any necessary adjustments, then with confidence decide if a new TV is in order.

Bob
Thanks all for so much help!!
We're going full-time; basically going to tool around the PA and Delmarva areas until fall, then head for Florida where we'll pretty much stay... don't have a permanent location or anything, just gonna look around and stay a while here and there, pretty much always on water; salt or fresh.

SOOO... based on what I learned and was hearing, and my gut feeling, we just traded the Dodge in on a 2016 Ford F150 with the Ecoboost 3.5L and a towing capacity over 10,000 lbs. We had the cash, and we're certainly going to need it (especially as my lady has to have her "stuff" and I have to have my "toys".
Once I get the trailer de-winterized and loaded up, I'm heading to the nearest cat scale, and following the procedures and suggested. I did read through them, and I'll do it. I really like it when towing/rv-ing/next stage of life go well!!
I've gotta make a sig and upload some photos, I really like the new truck, and I've made a few mods/updates/upgrades to the Trailer.
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Old 04-17-2016, 11:24 AM   #14
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Agree with previous comments about not maxing out the weight. Max rated towing capacity has more to do with safe stopping than pulling. The unfortunate part is you can try it and the TV will pull just fine. You don't know that the braking power is over taxed until trying to stop going down a hill or when someone pulls out right in front if you on the highway.

Rule of thumb...
2x weight = 4 times stopping distance
2x speed = 4 times stopping distance
2x weight + 2x speed = 8 times stopping distance

You are best on the safe side of pushing any one of these too far.
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Old 04-17-2016, 05:23 PM   #15
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Smile New 264BHW Owner

We just picked up our 264 about 6 weeks ago, and I was in your boat myself. Our yellow sticker states a manufactured weight at 4685# with the 2 propane tanks filled. To make #'s easy, figure 4700# as your base, minimum weight. I'm pulling ours with a 2001 F150 Lariat SuperCrew. Last weekend I did the CAT Scale procedure, to try to get some weight numbers.

In reality your trailer is going to max out at 6500#, and I think you'll get pretty close to it. Find out what your Gross Combination Vehicle Weight Rating, or GCVWR, is for your truck. That will determine your tongue weight, and how you need to distribute your loading of the trailer. As a test loading of our set up, we had the fuel tank full, our son was with us, and I had filled the fresh water tank full. The grew & black water tanks were >80% full to simulate some weight in the trailer. Our steer axle was maxed out, the drive axle was 200# under weight, and the trailer was about 1200# under maximum allowable. Our GCVWR was also about 1500# under gross.

I did our test loading as a partially loaded scenario. I know our steer axle won't be maxed out under normal conditions, since our son won't be there. Not a little kid, he's 29 years old, and a very big man(350+). Our 2 little (20#) dogs will be with us in the truck, plus an extra propane tank, and gas can for generator, that's about it. That will put more weight on the drive axle. I will also move some items to the rear storage since we won't be carrying the waste/water weight.

Once you get some of your numbers figured out, TV payload, GCVWR, and your tongue weight, try to get an empty weight of your truck, with full fuel tank. That will give you a baseline weight for your truck. You also might want to get your trailer weight at the same time. Leave your trailer jack foot on the jack, then pull up until your truck is off the scale. Jump out unhitch the trailer, and you can get the trailer weight. Rehook up, and you'll have a solid idea of your weights, and what you need to adjust.

How do I know this?? I drove 18 wheeler for more than 25 years, so this is nothing new to me at all. Also, you really want to go through your mechanical systems, as it's much easier, and cheaper, to fix it in your driveway, rather than on the road, or after a tow to a shop.
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Old 04-17-2016, 05:32 PM   #16
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Just caught your last post, excellent choice on TV. I'm also on some of the Ford forums, and those really help me out. Your '16 F150 should pull the trailer very nicely indeed.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:02 PM   #17
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Kev,

Not sure a trucker would be to happy if one of us left our trailer sitting on the scale, unhooked. There is actually a way to get all the weights needed. It does involve unhooking the tt, but it is advised to unhook it back where the big rigs park. A link to the "How to" is in my signature. You want to weigh 3 times total.
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Old 04-17-2016, 08:17 PM   #18
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Actually all you would have to do is pull the truck off the scale and have the tongue jack on pad 1 and the rear axles on pad 2, and release the ball, and unhook the bars. Get the weight of the trailer, reattach the bars, drop the tongue back on the ball, and drive off. It would take 5 or 7 minutes max. That would be the easiest, quickest way to do it.

This is just strictly to get a loaded trailer weight. Having the tongue jack on pad 1 will give you your tongue weight. The pad 2 weight is your TT axle weight, and the gross weight would be your pad 1 & 2 weight.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:01 PM   #19
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There are as many opinions as the are people but you can also get your weights with two trips over the scale.

Go over loaded pulling the trailer and write down the 3 weights. TV front and rear axles and trailer axles.

The total of all three is the gross combined vehicle weight. This number needs to be under the GCVWR listed for your TV.

The two TV axle weights combined includes the total weight of your TV and contents plus tongue weight of the trailer and needs to be less than the GVWR for your TV.

Drop the trailer in the parking lot and take the TV over the scale a second time recording the two axle weights.

Total weight of the two axles is the loaded weight of your TV and contents. Subtract this number from the total of the two TV axles from the first pass and you have the tongue weight of your trailer. Make sure this number matches your hitch setup and doesn't exceed the max tongue weight allowed.

Subtract the total axle weights from the second pass over the scale from the total axle weights of the first pass and you have the total loaded weight of your trailer. The number needs to be less than the GVWR posted for your trailer.

(Note. This comes from 23 yr with a class 1 lisence and many miles of towing)
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:14 PM   #20
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BCK,

In doing the math that way with only 2 passes across the scale, will only get you your "Net" tw, not the "Gross" tw. Part of the tw is transferred back to tt axles when the wd bars are hooked up. You need a 3rd pass, with the wd bars unhooked to be able to figure the "gross" actual tw. Just like if you were to place a scale dirctly under the coupler. That is unless you do as Kev suggested. Personally though I am not willing to potentially piss off a trucker by dropping the trailer as their time is money. I won't even take the time to unhook the wd bars to get the 2nd weight with the wd bars unhooked if there are trucks waiting without pulling off the scale and get back in line.

This is only if the steer scale is long enough for the tv, never looked that close to see just how long the steer scale is though- (may not be long enough): if one wants to unhook to get only the tt weight with the tw seperate, you could also get just the truck weight by having the tt axles on the trailer scale, the tongue on the drive axle scale, and the tv on the steer scale. Be worth a try anyway!
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WDH SET UP. HOW A WDH WORKS. CAT SCALE HOW TO.
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