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Old 12-22-2015, 04:41 PM   #11
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Changed out most all of our locks and even they were a little hard to work. The more you use them the easier they get.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:20 PM   #12
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If it is the unit in your signature, I would first make a warranty claim!
I seriously doubt I will be taking advantage of warranty over something this small, unless I'm already taking it in for something expensive.

I don't want my trailer spending months at the dealer, and so far, nothing has broken that cost me more than a few bucks and some spare time.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:21 PM   #13
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ok, based on all replies here, it will be oil first, upgrade only if that fails.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:18 PM   #14
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Ok so I saw some of the first responses and was surprised at how many people recommended WD-40, that is some seriously dated stuff. No offense intended to anyone. Me personally, I would go with a dry lube that is lithium based. It comes out as a liquid then dries within a minute and leaves a nice thin film that does not attract dirt like WD-40 will.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:28 PM   #15
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Well, I was thinking CLP, but that's just because I have a bunch handy.

I'll get out there in the morning and try it.
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:34 PM   #16
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Exclamation Whats the solution?

I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:01 AM   #17
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I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.
Its true these locks are only to deter the honest thieves. And anyone that has the bed over the front pass through compartment floorplan like I do, if you get in the compartment door you can simply raise up the bed and you are in the trailer.
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:30 AM   #18
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Well, I was thinking CLP, but that's just because I have a bunch handy.

I'll get out there in the morning and try it.
I think CLP is a GREAT alternative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macman View Post
I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.
This is one of the reasons I haven't gone to great lengths to replace my locks. I could put the baddest lock money could buy on there, it's still held in by a thin piece of aluminum in the back that is EASILY defeated.

Like Crabman said, these locks are there to keep the honest people honest, they will not stop even a somewhat determined thief. OTOH, a thief might move on to an "easier" target if you change them out. I don't have to be the fastest buffalo, I just don't want to be the slowest. So changing them out is still on my list, it's just down there a ways.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:16 AM   #19
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As noted, any lock is vulnerable, the purpose is to deter or slow-down the theft. There are 'high risk' situations over which you have some degree of control - and consider insurance that covers losses/damages:
1) Storage yard ~ you make the choice here on location and how to best secure all belongings (rig locks, propane, batteries, etc.) and the best spot within the yard
2) Publically parked while in transit (during dining or sightseeing) ~ avoid out-of-the-way parking or high-crime areas
3) Campground ~ a State Park Ranger shared that most campground thefts are quick by walkers or persons driving through the loops and the most vulnerable is what is in sight (generators, bikes) or what is unlocked (rig's doors or storage areas) - so lock everything down and make sure you have 'marked' them to prove ownership
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:19 AM   #20
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As noted, any lock is vulnerable, the purpose is to deter or slow-down the theft. There are 'high risk' situations over which you have some degree of control - and consider insurance that covers losses/damages:
1) Storage yard ~ you make the choice here on location and how to best secure all belongings (rig locks, propane, batteries, etc.) and the best spot within the yard
2) Publically parked while in transit (during dining or sightseeing) ~ avoid out-of-the-way parking or high-crime areas
3) Campground ~ a State Park Ranger shared that most campground thefts are quick by walkers or persons driving through the loops and the most vulnerable is what is in sight (generators, bikes) or what is unlocked (rig's doors or storage areas) - so lock everything down and make sure you have 'marked' them to prove ownership
GREAT advice IMO.
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