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Old 09-24-2014, 10:10 AM   #21
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I just keep mine tight, I look at the lock washer, if it's flat it's done. The ball I use has flats on the shank shoulder and I use a very large adjustable wrench on those flats. The nut underneath turns a bit and then stops turning as the lockwasher bites into metal surfaces and I just pull on the wrench until I can't pull any more.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:20 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by GMC View Post
The listed torque for a 2" ball with 1" shank is 250 ft lbs. So if I understand this right that is 250 lbs of force applied 1 foot from the shanks. So... if I put my torque wrench in a 3 foot pipe I need to set it to 83, 84 lbs. (Give or take). Does this sound right? I want to make sure it's torqued correctly but have neither the torque wrench, nor the rear end on my frame to apply 250 lbs!

thanks
If you weigh 200 lbs and you put a breaker bar on the nut and stand on the breaker bar 1 ft from the nut, that is 200 lb ft of torque.( 200 x 1= 200) If you slip a pipe over the bar and stand 2 ft from the nut that is 400 lb ft or torque (200 x 2= 400). Do the math
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:23 AM   #23
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Guys...this post is old...I am sure he has it torqued by now
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:25 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jeff61 View Post
If you weigh 200 lbs and you put a breaker bar on the nut and stand on the breaker bar 1 ft from the nut, that is 200 lb ft of torque.( 200 x 1= 200) If you slip a pipe over the bar and stand 2 ft from the nut that is 400 lb ft or torque (200 x 2= 400). Do the math
how are you going to stand on a bar
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:30 AM   #25
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how are you going to stand on a bar
Pretty simple. Lift up foot and place on bar. Repeat with other foot. Viola, you are now standing on the bar.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:33 AM   #26
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Pretty simple. Lift up foot and place on bar. Repeat with other foot. Viola, you are now standing on the bar.
quite the caveman way of doing something....just get a proper torque wrench like I said many posts and days ago
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:05 PM   #27
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how are you going to stand on a bar
My brother and I did it trying to break a castle nut free from the axle on a '65 Mustang. We put the impact socket on the breaker bar, cranked on it for a while, no glory. So we broke out the small cheater, slipped it on the breaker bar and cranked on that for a while, still no glory. Broke out the longest cheater pipe we had (more than 3 ft IIRC), I stood on it, then HE stood on it (he was MUCH bigger then), then we both stood on it together and broke the socket. That stupid castle nut just laughed at us!

IDK how he ended up getting it off, but those were some good times.

I've stood on the end of a breaker bar a couple times since then, and it never ends well. Most recently I completely stripped one of my hitch bolts and ended up cutting it off, but before that, I was standing on the handle of my breaker bar trying to get the nut to turn off. It was a piece of crap anyway and needed replacing long before I ever got my fat fingers on it!
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:06 PM   #28
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say what?
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:03 AM   #29
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An even easier way to do it is to stop by a truck tire shop in the area and see if they would torque it for you. They have 5' torque wrenches that go to 1000lbft. so 250# shouldn't be a big problem. My 2 5/16" ball goes to #300.
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:40 AM   #30
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Stop at a local tire shop and ask them to hit the hitch bolt/nut with one of their heavy duty impact wrenches. Probably will do it for no $$'s but why worry about having the tools or knowledge to do it yourself when you can get it done by experts for little or no $$'s.

Did this when i needed a taller riser bar for our new WHawk. Tire shop loosened and swapped in the new bar and then retorked everything. Figure there is no need to get a strained shoulder or hernia doing this yourself.
That's using your head. I did the exact same thing on mine. If I ever need to take it off will have to go back to the tire shop but will cross that bridge when the time comes!

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