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Old 04-22-2011, 08:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by usmc616 View Post
snip.......I wonder where Trout lives?
Don't know his place of residence...., but he has another recent thread running over in the "Hybrids" forum with similar subject matter with additional Dual Cam info.

Bob
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #22
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I will get it

I appreciate the support and guidance. I really didn't mean to come across as defeated. I drove it home 3 hours last week in 25 - 30 mph winds and I'm sold on the Reese. Even with the trailer unlevel it followed without failure. What is helpful about this forum is that there is experience to counter setup instructions. I looked at today as a chance to really dial it in. Reese said to try and get the backend to lower no more than a 1/2 inch more than the front. Pulling it the first time the backend lowered just over an inch more. Well today I got it more in line with the documentation and it didn't pull as well. You live and learn but what helps is to come here and see that what I felt behind the wheel, with my limited experience, was accurate regardless of what the installation instructions state.

I have two issues: getting the trailer level, dialing in the WD. Today I exhausted every option to get the hitch ball low enough to level the trailer - bottom hole, max tilt. It wouldn't work. So I did what I was hoping to avoid and ordered a shank that will drop more than the 1.5" the current shank allows (no option of flipping it to get more). I ordered a Curt because it was 1/2 the cost of a Reese or Draw-Tite. It has a 5" drop. I assume it will work. Shank dimensions were the roughly the same from the receiver, more drop of course, I just hope the distance between holes are the same. I have gained enough experience with the tilt and the chain links that adjusting the WD should be okay. I just don't have as definitive a target since those in the instructions don't do the trick. It also takes a long time to raise, drop the bars, lower, disconnect, untighten, adjust the teeth, retighten, repeat, etc.

Eagle - my Reese is brand new - silver cams, trunnion bars 400 - 800 lb, bolted on, Pathfinder hitch load max 600 lb. Sorry, no pics yet. The trailer only says not to pull it with a 1 ton. I don't think the bars are too stiff based on some guidance on a different forum (I stand on the tongue and bounce and there is a few inches of give). I am curious about your guidance on the front axle. Are you stating that I should try not to transfer any weight to the front or just keep it proportional or less than that on the rear? Intuitively it seems I would need to move some for the WD effect and also to keep the front end from feeling too light.

Again, thanks to all.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:36 PM   #23
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snip........Are you stating that I should try not to transfer any weight to the front or just keep it proportional or less than that on the rear? Intuitively it seems I would need to move some for the WD effect and also to keep the front end from feeling too light. Again, thanks to all.
Trout34,

No, you need to transfer weight to the front, and I apologize for the confusion. I'll try to clarify my prior statements.....;

What actually happens is when the loaded tongue weight of your HTT is first placed on your hitch ball the rear of the TV settles (weight is added) and the front of the TV rises (weight is removed). When you engage the WD spring bars weight is then removed from the TV's rear axle and transferred to the TV's front axle and HTT axle(s). The objective on most newer TV suspensions when using a WDH is that you want to "return" the same weight that was removed "back" to the TV's front axle. If I recall you added an additional 200lbs to your front TV axle after engaging the spring bars, which is to much weight "returned". Normally one should get within plus/minus 50lbs.

Once you have the TV's front axle weight back in check with the spring bars engaged, now you can determine if the TV's "rear axle" weight remains below the TV's specified GAWR.

Many TV owners manuals reference towing with a WDH and front suspension requirements.

Also, since you have an 800lb rated spring bar, it won't take much effort to transfer around 500lbs HTT tongue weight.

Your asking great questions, gets us all thinking! Hope I didn't add to the confusion.

Bob
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:56 PM   #24
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Clutch what is the tongue weight capacity on your Husky wd hitch?
Thanks Ernie

Ernie, it is either 800 or 1000 lbs. Which ever it is it tows really nice even without the sway controll hooked up. I forgot to plut it on when we left Az and it towed so good I didn't even bother with it the next day. I am towing with a SRW one ton.
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:36 AM   #25
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Ernie, it is either 800 or 1000 lbs. Which ever it is it tows really nice even without the sway controll hooked up. I forgot to plut it on when we left Az and it towed so good I didn't even bother with it the next day. I am towing with a SRW one ton.
Clutch,

The Eagle 330RLTS has a fantastic floor plan. If I could just make the weight numbers work for my existing TV, I would have one myself.

I do however have one question, have you had an opportunity to weigh the TT under loaded conditions yet? I'm really curious on what the actual loaded tongue weight works out to on that TT.

Bob
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:05 AM   #26
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As I understand it, a WD hitch does not change tongue weight, it just moves around the forces created by the TW. Here's a simple description of the process. Mr.T http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...pa/pging/1.cfm
If you can still stand up straight, go here: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...print/true.cfm
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:58 PM   #27
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Rustic Eagle, I havn't had the tailer on a scale. My truck is a 3500 and I just don't worry about it much. I do plan on installing some air bags for next year because I will be hauling our Rhino in the bed of the truck. If you look at the placement of the trailer wheels you will see that the heaviest load would be in the pantry just over the wheels. I really don't think the tongue weight is more than 1500 lbs with a load.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:30 AM   #28
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Clutch,

Wish I had your 1 ton drive train/suspension under my hood, I'd be towing the 330RLTS as well! Yes, I agree that a 1,500lb loaded tongue is very possible, and as you implied it all depends on how one loads the TT.

You also mentioned in an earlier post that you had either a 800lb or 1,000lb rated Husky WDH, be careful using spring bars rated below your TT loaded tongue weight. It's not that your TV can't handle the heavy weights, it's the games the TT's loaded tongue weight could play on your TV's receiver under these conditions. As the "WD mode" of the TV receiver becomes less effective in conjunction with the WDH, then the "weight carrying" mode of the receiver may come into play. Just thinking out loud, it may not even be an issue with your set-up.

Enjoy the new TT, I know I would

Bob
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:42 PM   #29
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Rustic Eagle, I was looking at my WD hitch the other day and now I am thinking it is heavier duty than what I first thought. When we bought the trailer I told the salesman I want a hitch that will do the job. Upon closer inspection I see numbers like 1400# on the tag. The bars are really heavy so it could be more than I was first thinking. At any rate it tows at least as good as the 5er we traded in.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:07 AM   #30
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snip......Upon closer inspection I see numbers like 1400# on the tag. The bars are really heavy so it could be more than I was first thinking. At any rate it tows at least as good as the 5er we traded in.
Clutch,

Much better...., it sounds like you have 1,400lb rated spring bars which will contribute to a much better towing experience (in lieu of 800lb or 1,000lb. rated bars).

Bob
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