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Old 01-07-2022, 06:20 PM   #1
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Water Heater

I have the dometic GC6AA-10E water heater....been running on electric.....took a shower yesterday it was fine. A while later I noticed the lighted switch wasn't lit anymore. It will no longer light up!
I switched on the propane water heater switch and that works fine.

Dometic says take it to a dealer. I am not able to do that at this time.
Any ideas on how/what to troubleshoot? Hoping its not too serious and I can maybe fix myself.

Thanks!!
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Old 01-07-2022, 06:55 PM   #2
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Obviously 1st check the water heater 120V breaker.

I suppose the switch with the light could be bad, maybe try a jump.

Can check for voltage as well as ground at heating element if you can get to it. From viewing my Dometic manual diagram there is a relay that powers the heating element.

Other than that the circuit board seems to be in control.
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Old 01-07-2022, 07:46 PM   #3
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The switch is probably a 12 volt one which controls a relay inside of the water heater. Maybe the internal light failed in it.

I have attached the manual for their different water heaters. Look at the wiring and troubleshooting info.
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File Type: pdf pilot_6_gallon.pdf (3.01 MB, 21 views)
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Old 01-07-2022, 08:32 PM   #4
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I had the same thing happen after doing routine maintenance on our water heater (replaced the thermo/ECO)...not sure why the switch went bad, but it did.
Replaced myself, as not worth waiting on dealer/servicing center to do it...
I posted our issue in this forum: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tch-91318.html
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Old 01-08-2022, 10:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topperace View Post
I had the same thing happen after doing routine maintenance on our water heater (replaced the thermo/ECO)...not sure why the switch went bad, but it did.
Replaced myself, as not worth waiting on dealer/servicing center to do it...
I posted our issue in this forum: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tch-91318.html
How did you know that is what the problem was? How did you troubleshoot it?
Thanks!!
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Old 01-08-2022, 10:58 AM   #6
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Well, since I had just finished the routine maintenance, cleaning burner tube, flue, etc and replacement of thermo/ECO, I focused on the inside of the RV first thinking I might have "tripped" something breaker/fuse wise.... checked fuses - all ok, electrical breaker turned off and back on to reset -- not the problem. So then I worked on the switch/light panel. Swapped the known good light/switch from the Gas Heater position to the electrical heater position and worked on electrical heater position, thus pointed to bad switch at the electrical
positon. Sure enough new one came in and worked fine...I honestly cannot tell you what caused the switch to go... old age maybe/? I can say, once I replaced the Therm/ECO, water heater has been solid so far... no more relay chatter, etc.... fingers crossed.
I should have documented the steps I did during maintenance, etc...but worked pretty fast to get everything done before sunset...
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Old 01-08-2022, 11:05 AM   #7
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Hmm, ok....I'm thinking I could turn water heater off (running on propane) let it cool then turn on electric switch and see if it gets hot, then I would know if its the switch right?
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Old 01-08-2022, 11:46 AM   #8
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Yes, you could and I have done that step before as well…
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Old 01-08-2022, 12:02 PM   #9
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Yes, you could and I have done that step before as well…
Ok good, doing this test no....stay tuned......appreciate your help!
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Old 01-08-2022, 02:06 PM   #10
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A voltmeter would instantly tell you if the switch was good or bad. You could test it in one of two ways. Set the meter to DC volts at a range (if needed) where it could measure 12 volts. The switch will probably have 3 terminals. Two of the terminals are the actual switch and the 3rd terminal will be ground which is only there so the switch light can light up.

1. Measure from the ground wire to each of the other two terminals. One terminal will read 12 volts all the time. The other terminal will only read 12 volts when the switch is turned on provided the switch is good.

2. Another test is to measure across the 2 switch terminals (not ground). When in the OFF position it will measure 12 volts. When in the ON position it will measure zero volts. When the switch makes contact it basically shorts the two terminals together.

I have attached some troubleshooting info that may help you in the future.
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File Type: pdf Quick Multimeter Instructions (ver 1).pdf (376.3 KB, 2 views)
File Type: pdf RV Electrical Troubleshooting (ver 2).pdf (2.01 MB, 4 views)
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Old 01-08-2022, 03:10 PM   #11
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That is great info! Thanks! I'm guessing I just unscrew the whole panel where all the switches are to access the water heater switch, correct?
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Old 01-08-2022, 03:18 PM   #12
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That is great info! Thanks! I'm guessing I just unscrew the whole panel where all the switches are to access the water heater switch, correct?
Yep.
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Old 01-08-2022, 06:18 PM   #13
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Update!! Looks like its just the switch. Turned off propane, let cool down all day, was luke warm, turned on electric switch, it's back up to hot temp!!

Thanks guys!! Now if I can figure out my grey tank issue (separate post) that would be great.
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:55 AM   #14
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Ok guys, this is the switch, I can't seem to find one, anybody know where I can find it? Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2022, 11:20 AM   #15
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Yes, see the Mouser link in this thread I started when my switch went bad...

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tch-91318.html

The PDF

Not too many places sell this exact switch...
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Old 01-09-2022, 11:23 AM   #16
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Yes, see the Mouser link in this thread I started when my switch went bad...

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tch-91318.html

The PDF

Not too many places sell this exact switch...
Oh yeah, thank you! My head is on my grey tank issue now
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Old 01-09-2022, 11:49 AM   #17
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Mouser and Digi-Key are 2 great sources for electronic "stuff". Have used them for decades.

In 2020 I swapped out my tankless water heater for a tank model and bought a control panel that didn't have lighted switches. I ordered a couple of lighted switches from Amazon and they worked perfectly.
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Old 01-09-2022, 02:52 PM   #18
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You could also check out allelectronics.com for item LRS-20, 12 volt dc lighted rocker switch for $1.75
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Old 01-12-2022, 05:01 PM   #19
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Quick guess is electrc element blown; if you have a meter, you can test yourself with power disconnected, check for continuity. short, 120-volt element, you can buy a plumber socket cheap and change yourself after pressure released from tank/water system, (put tank in winter bypass, open RELIEF VALVE) $10-$15 for element?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-W...lement/3692734

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-W...lement/3692742

Good Luck
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Old 01-12-2022, 06:00 PM   #20
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Quick guess is electrc element blown; if you have a meter, you can test yourself with power disconnected, check for continuity. short, 120-volt element, you can buy a plumber socket cheap and change yourself after pressure released from tank/water system, (put tank in winter bypass, open RELIEF VALVE) $10-$15 for element?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-W...lement/3692734

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-W...lement/3692742

Good Luck

Umm thanks but see posts above
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