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Old 12-22-2015, 08:44 AM   #21
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W/H Plug

My 2 cents worth. My Atwood blew the tip of the nylon plug off, which it was designed to do. I damaged the threads while trying to remove the stem of the plug that was left in the W/H. Could not get a nylon plug to re thread. Solution:
Purchased a Temperature Controlled Thermostat from Amazon for bout $30 and installed it. Had to use a brass plug with a drain in it. I have the temp set on the 2nd of five settings at this time and it is working OK. By the way, I went to a RV parts place and gave them my W/H Model # and the parts person came back with the brass plug in hand and said it was the correct replacement for my
W/H model #. Go figure!!! I just do a pull on my P/R valve more often. I have seen guys that have used the brass plugs for years and they haven't had any problems.
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Old 12-22-2015, 08:56 AM   #22
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I go with nylon as well. IF I ever do anything to it, it will probably be to tap a valve into the nylon plug as was previously mentioned.

I don't understand why everyone has so many problems getting the nylon plugs out? It's SUPER easy if you get a 15/16 socket and a 4" (or more) extension. Easy in, easy out. Begin and end using your fingers to avoid cross-threading, and keep a couple extra on hand just in case. I have the extras, but after more than 2 years taking it out after every trip to drain the tank, my original is still just fine.

Just don't try to remove one from a hot, pressurized tank (don't ask me how I know).

Edit: I bet it would be even easier if I used my 4" "wobble" extension.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:06 AM   #23
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I just had a thought- Why is it that if brass plugs can cause harmful electrolysis, that the brass pressure relief valve mounted in the aluminum tank seems to cause no problem?

That leads me to think that the use of the nylon plug is more for the reason of cost savings, or for preventing tank thread damage from regular removal and replacement of the plug, or for an extra level of over-pressure protection.
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Old 12-22-2015, 09:18 AM   #24
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As Camper-Bob said 15/16'' socket and extension and its easey peasey to remove/install the nylon plug. As for the dissimilar metals issue perhaps there has to be physical contact between the metals for corrosion to occur and teflon or pipe dope takes care of that? I know on a boat a piece of brass fastened directly to aluminum will eat the aluminum up in a short time, even above the waterline. Have experienced that first hand when attaching brass guard to an aluminum pot puller box. It ate holes right through the aluminum box in one season.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:09 PM   #25
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I just purchased a Jayco jay flight 29qbs and had an issue with the nylon plug. It seemed to go in straight for the first 2 turns and after that it started to wobble in the threads. I tried everything I could but never got it to seat correctly. Could the plug have been messed up? Why did the put the plug right behind the gass/heater line in the case? It makes it very hard to get it in straight and makes it very easy to cut your knuckles. This all happened on our first camping trip this year. No hot water made for a grouchy wife and a quick shower. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:39 PM   #26
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Welcome to the JOF.

Yes, it is an awkward place to put the plug and you are among the many of us to lament that placement. Some folks remove the plug, drill and tap the center, and put in a drain valve with a lever that makes draining simple. I bought a spare plug at ACE hardware to have 'just in case.' Not that either of those helps your recent prickly 'cold shower' situation, but they may help a repeat.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
Where did you find the nylon plug with petcock valve? I prefer the petcock because unscrewing that nylon plug a half-dozen times each year is a PITA! I have a brass one that I used in the HW heater on my Outback for 8 years, with no corrosion problems. But many here warn against it. And doing some research online, there is information that supports the dissimilar metals brass/aluminum can create the electrolysis corrosion problem.

Maybe I had no corrosion problems because I used plenty of Teflon tape?
I made it myself. Just drilled the nylon plug with a bit smaller than the brass plug. Screwed the brass into it and its sealed itself... Took 5 mins.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:46 PM   #28
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Water heater plug...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
I go with nylon as well. IF I ever do anything to it, it will probably be to tap a valve into the nylon plug as was previously mentioned.

I don't understand why everyone has so many problems getting the nylon plugs out? It's SUPER easy if you get a 15/16 socket and a 4" (or more) extension. Easy in, easy out. Begin and end using your fingers to avoid cross-threading, and keep a couple extra on hand just in case. I have the extras, but after more than 2 years taking it out after every trip to drain the tank, my original is still just fine.

Just don't try to remove one from a hot, pressurized tank (don't ask me how I know).

Edit: I bet it would be even easier if I used my 4" "wobble" extension.

I had to laugh when I read your caution against removing the plug from a pressurized tank.

The last time I drained my tank, I forgot to open any of the hot water valves in the RV. My wife was drying the RV off after we washed it while I emptied the tank. I loosened the plug and when it finally came free, water shot out with enough pressure to bore a 6 inch hole in the lawn.

I also got soaked head to toe. Needless to say, my wife got a good chuckle out of it.

Won't forget those important steps again.
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylersdad View Post
I loosened the plug and when it finally came free, water shot out with enough pressure to bore a 6 inch hole in the lawn.

X2
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