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Old 09-29-2013, 12:53 PM   #1
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Converter fan - next steps?

Last year, I posted that our converter fan was coming on frequently (every 15 minutes or so) but only running for a few seconds, 5 seconds max. It seemed to me and some other forum posters that this wasn't normal. So, since I needed some other maintenance done, I had a local dealer examine the converter. They charged me $100 to tell me it was working normally. Given the other shoddy repairs they did, I'm not confident in their diagnosis.

We can keep the fan from coming on by keeping the camper cool which wasn't too difficult this past July, but in preparation for next season, we'd like to really know what's going on?

I believe a converter only costs about $200-$250. Is this something I (not an electrician but OK with household repairs) I could do myself? How about if I enlist a neighbor that IS an electrician? I just don't want to pay another diagnostic fee only to be told on faith that it's OK. Or, should I just take it to another dealer and have them replace it without even asking for a diagnosis?

Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:28 PM   #2
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You don't say what year/make/model etc. your RV in this thread, but you might have mentioned it in a previous one. Could you repeat it again rather than have me search through your previous postings? It would be helpful because Jayco (and other manufacturers too) sometimes change suppliers of components. For example, the converter in my 2000 Jayco Eagle is a Todd Engineering, but if you have a jayco newer than that, it probably has another brand because Todd Engineering went out of business and Jayco had to find another source for converters.

BTW- My converter's cooling fan runs continuously. However, it's variable speed depending on the electrical load that's placed upon it.

As long as the converter is performing the task intended, I don't see any cause for alarm, However, if another poster has the same converter and the fan operates differently, maybe they'll post it and you'll have something to compare to yours. Then you can make a more educated decision as to what action, if any, to take.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:38 PM   #3
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Failed to mention, it's a 1007 from 2007
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
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I have a question for you.... I've had my 2001 Jayco Potomac for about 1 month and found a lot of things to repair. (I was not an educated buyer) But I am DIY. I've never see or heard my converter fan come on AND the only way I can run 12V is to attach the battery AND hook to shore line. Is this right?? Also... if you have a cutoff switch under the sink, can you peek under the cabinet and tell me where the pigtail lines run to? I lost the hot of the switch and cannot find it anywhere under there. I'm thinking it slipped through a hole or something. This all started because I have no top lights and looking fo answers. Thanks
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliej View Post
I have a question for you.... I've had my 2001 Jayco Potomac for about 1 month and found a lot of things to repair. (I was not an educated buyer) But I am DIY. I've never see or heard my converter fan come on AND the only way I can run 12V is to attach the battery AND hook to shore line. Is this right??
Doesn't sound right to me, at least not from my experience with my 1007 pup. Our 12V lights work when I've got the camper plugged into a 110V line. I don't even have a battery with my camper....the original wasn't holding a charge from the day we bought it, and I don't see any reason to drop $100 on a battery since we only camp on electric sites. No boondocking for us. The converter provides for 12V inside the camper when connected to 110V power, so it sounds to me like your converter has failed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by charliej View Post
Also... if you have a cutoff switch under the sink, can you peek under the cabinet and tell me where the pigtail lines run to? I lost the hot of the switch and cannot find it anywhere under there. I'm thinking it slipped through a hole or something. This all started because I have no top lights and looking fo answers. Thanks
I don't see a cutoff switch under our sink....don't think I can help with this one.
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:55 AM   #6
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Smile Found the wire and converter problem Troubleshoot

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Originally Posted by raising4daughters View Post
Doesn't sound right to me, at least not from my experience with my 1007 pup. Our 12V lights work when I've got the camper plugged into a 110V line. I don't even have a battery with my camper....the original wasn't holding a charge from the day we bought it, and I don't see any reason to drop $100 on a battery since we only camp on electric sites. No boondocking for us. The converter provides for 12V inside the camper when connected to 110V power, so it sounds to me like your converter has failed.




I don't see a cutoff switch under our sink....don't think I can help with this one.
I was able to contact Jayco and they sent me a schematic of the 12v wiring. After a long search, I was able to trace the "purple wire" that was missing from the pigtail connection. And yes there is a problem with the converter. The auto switching from 110v to 12v is bad. I understand what is happening the 110V conversion/charging batt is activated and will not auto select to 12v only. This is causing the situation of having to have a battery connected to "complete" a circuit to have 110v to 12v conversion power to run the 12v lighting and not able to run 12v lighting with a battery only. Solution 135.00 for a new converter if I don't want to connect a battery for a shore line use for12v or use 12v off a battery only.

Some FYI for all.......
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:19 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by charliej View Post
Some FYI for all.......
Thank you...good to know
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #8
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This message is for the Original Poster, concerned about the fan.

The fan is typically thermally activated and runs as needed to keep the unit cool. I would tend to believe the shop that told you it is working normally. If all your DC systems are working, I don't think I would be looking to spend money to replace something that hasn't failed.

It does run more often when a) ambient temperature is high, and b) when the converter has a big load.

Some things to check out in case it might be related to b).
- Do you have the refrigerator set to run on DC? (huge DC power draw and not a very efficient way to run it)
- Do you have a battery? Is the battery well maintained? The converter will charge the battery but if the battery is bad or very dead, it will work very hard and long trying to charge it, which will cause the fan to run more often.

Check it out!

BTW - replacement converters that are very nice upgrades from the typical factory units are available for $100-140. Fairly easy to install, but some basic electrical knowledge would be recommended.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #9
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teejay - GREAT input. Thank you very much.

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Originally Posted by teejaywhy View Post
This message is for the Original Poster, concerned about the fan.

The fan is typically thermally activated and runs as needed to keep the unit cool. I would tend to believe the shop that told you it is working normally. If all your DC systems are working, I don't think I would be looking to spend money to replace something that hasn't failed.

It does run more often when a) ambient temperature is high, and b) when the converter has a big load.
Definitely understand and agree with everything you've said. We notice the converter fan running most when it's hot outside or inside the camper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by teejaywhy View Post
Some things to check out in case it might be related to b).
- Do you have the refrigerator set to run on DC? (huge DC power draw and not a very efficient way to run it)
- Do you have a battery? Is the battery well maintained? The converter will charge the battery but if the battery is bad or very dead, it will work very hard and long trying to charge it, which will cause the fan to run more often.
Great thoughts. I always keep the refrigerator set on AC unless we're driving. I turn it off when we're not using it (49-50 weeks/year, unfortunately)

We do not have a battery hooked up at all. The one that came with the camper was dead after one winter, and we don't camp without full electric. We don't rough it like many others. Could that be causing a problem?

I'm going to assume the dealer is right. I got the same story from a Jayco technician on line.
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:35 AM   #10
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Converters are NOT regulated DC power supplies. They are not designed to operate without a battery connected. Converters are designed to charge a battery and the battery powers the coach. The battery provides capacitance in the system which helps prevent wide voltage swings and also help with surge loads such as fans, the water pump, or the blower on the heater. Running the system without a battery will shorten the life of the converter and everything connected to it due to unregulated voltage swings and noise. The battery also eliminates some EMI / RFI bleeding in from the AC side. Some converters won't even operate at all if there is no battery connected.
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