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Old 12-04-2014, 08:25 AM   #61
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Curious how easy the underbelly is to remove where the fresh water tanks are? I've removed several, but not this one. We have yet to put any water in the tanks, but I already know I want to isolate one of them. Hoping the gauge is on the same tank as the suction. I hate this design already.
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:40 AM   #62
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Well the section i removed i had to take the 5/16 screws out that were along the edge and remove the screws on the lp blocks to pull them down then just started working the corrugated out of the channel and pulled it down enough to get to what i needed to
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:41 AM   #63
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Hard to isolate because the back one is hooked to the Guage front one is the fill ... cause i thought. About that
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:44 AM   #64
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Which side does the pump pull from? If fill and pump are tied to the same one, I'd be ok as I can deal without the gauge, or always add one.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:49 AM   #65
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In mine there is a Tee in the line that connects the two tanks which goes to the pump.

I guess since my furnace thread has migrated to the water system I can consider my thread hijacked.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:35 PM   #66
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On mine the fill is on front tank and the draw is on front tank t fitting the gauge is on. Back tank , i have a 338 rets though yours might be set up different
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:37 PM   #67
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Yeah sorry tn i had posted originally in a thread i started on water tanks lol
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Old 12-04-2014, 04:59 PM   #68
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The discriptions about the setup are pretty consistent. A T fitting for the pump side is not what i would have envisioned. For those of you wanting to isolate a single tank, sensor probes are really easy to install. Cost about 2$-$5 each on eBay. I have no ideah how mine is setup but I do only have one single petcock drain. There are 2 vent hoses poking out too.

When they had my under body open, I notice that they cut the corrugated material for access and then taped it up with that underbelly duct tape on steroids. A guy could probably cut in an access door of sorts just like that. I have no doubt I will be in there shortly. We dry camp deep in the mountains for 5-7 days at a time. The 88gallon capacity was a huge buying point for me. But it would be cool to be able to isolate if it was a short weekend trip. 40 would be plenty for one weekend.

Maybe ditch the T fitting and put a 3 way valve on the pump so when one tank is empty you can manually switch to the other?
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Old 12-04-2014, 09:24 PM   #69
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well I still have to believe it is a venting problem on the front tank now but once I try that I am out of ideas ... they should equalize they both fill fine now so in theory they should both empty fine too ... the two tank drains both work to empty the tanks
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:39 PM   #70
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well I still have to believe it is a venting problem on the front tank now but once I try that I am out of ideas ... they should equalize they both fill fine now so in theory they should both empty fine too ... the two tank drains both work to empty the tanks
That is perplexing! If they fill fine why not pump fine. It has to be an air problem like you believe. I have not personally dealt with it yet but I actually find this fascinating.

I wonder if since the tubes you end up pumping from are only 1/2" if just the slightest vent pressure imbalance just causes one side to move more water then the other. Ill bet that if there was a secondary low point water tube connecting the two that was say 1" diameter it would solve the equalization problem.

I am seriously thinking about a mod that disconnects the two tanks, adds a second filler flange and makes them independent of each other. Then have a 3 way valve I can turn when one tank is exhausted. Had 74 F250 with that kind of setup for dual gas tanks. Had an electric switch on the dash to switch the gauge from tank to tank. The valve was behind the seat on the floor.
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