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Old 12-14-2013, 03:16 PM   #31
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This is a great thread and exchange of ideas. I've learned from reading that I'm probably over spec towing this rig with the truck I have. I wouldn't have known as it sits level and seems to handle the load with ease with the exception of being a little short on power on the steep grades.

Not meaning to belabor a point already made, but as far as safety, a good, alert driver is the foremost component. I'm sure all of you guys are just that but I have seen a few out there that are going way to fast and not paying attention in general.
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Old 12-14-2013, 04:14 PM   #32
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This is a great thread and exchange of ideas. I've learned from reading that I'm probably over spec towing this rig with the truck I have. I wouldn't have known as it sits level and seems to handle the load with ease with the exception of being a little short on power on the steep grades.

Not meaning to belabor a point already made, but as far as safety, a good, alert driver is the foremost component. I'm sure all of you guys are just that but I have seen a few out there that are going way to fast and not paying attention in general.
I agree with everything that you say about being a alert and safe driver. But the unexpected issue such as a emergency stop or a malfunctioning brake control or a bad connection in your TV to your trailer or any combination of these things can get you in deep trouble before you realize it if you don't have enough truck. I had a 2008 Chevy diesel 2500 that had great power but not enough brakes. Coming onto an interchange, a car stopped in front of me. I was watching the mirrors to merge and didn't pick up on the car stopped in front of me. I hit the brakes and then realized it wasn't stopping. The plug on the trailer had came loose. Luckily there was room to swerve to the right (just barely) to avoid a rear end collision. My point is that it's in your best interest to not being near the upper limits on any portion of your TV. That truck was theoretically plenty heavy enough to handle an 8000 lb. trailer. But I was well aware that in a tight spot, it was weak on brakes. Murphy's law **** near bit me!!! Trailer brake failure along with an emergency situation had me in a bad spot. A truck with better brakes would have reduced my panic mode exposure. A Tundra is a fine truck but operating above or near its upper limits is playing with fire in my book!!!
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:48 PM   #33
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"Plug fell out"

Holy cow, that would definitely to it! My present brake controller will warn me it the trailer isn't connected. Was your plug damaged so that the ears that engage the plug, didn't?
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:40 PM   #34
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I had just went over a series of rumble strips.. I have to assume that was pulled the plug. No, there was not any indication on that truck controller that told me there was an issue. The plug was scuffed a little but still useable. The 2011 Ford that I have now has an integrated controller that tells if there is no connection. This truck also has excellent brakes.
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:57 PM   #35
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well with all you guys talking about how great the frame is on the tundra im just going to leave this here

and this


now i know it is probably a little biased but it is something to think about, i dont expect people to not buy a toyota over it but that is seriously alot of flex
personally i believe imports are ment for comfort and domestics are ment for working (with the exception of the dodge with coil springs, that was a dumb idea for people that actually use their trucks)

as far as the 5er that one i would not tow with any half ton, i was looking at the 23.5 eagle HT and that was pretty much all i would do with my ford even with all the stuff i have done and plan to do with it
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:12 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by carey965 View Post
well with all you guys talking about how great the frame is on the tundra im just going to leave this here

and this


now i know it is probably a little biased but it is something to think about, i dont expect people to not buy a toyota over it but that is seriously alot of flex
personally i believe imports are ment for comfort and domestics are ment for working (with the exception of the dodge with coil springs, that was a dumb idea for people that actually use their trucks)

as far as the 5er that one i would not tow with any half ton, i was looking at the 23.5 eagle HT and that was pretty much all i would do with my ford even with all the stuff i have done and plan to do with it


I would not get wrapped up on those type tests. Get up to the bigger Fords, and they do the same thing.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:22 AM   #37
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All I was really saying is that I would rather have a welded boxed frame over the riveted 3 piece frame with an open c channel under the bed.

Toyota does have some nice stuff in their trucks but they fell short on what holds it all together
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:22 PM   #38
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I tow a 27.5 eagle ht and just got back from a 320 mile round trip from mt vernon indiana to nashville tn. First time pulling very far. My dry pin weight is 1275 and rated payload 1340 for my tundra. It pulled well with plenty of power and braking and got 9.5 mpg. May get better as I learn how to tow better. I have air ride bags and 10 ply tires. Heres all I'm going to add to the thread. Toyota went to the sae j2807 standard in 2011 dropping the payload 500 pounds just going to the standard like all the brands agreed to but toyota being the only brand that did. So how are the other brands getting their payload numbers. Going 500 over the standard like toyota used to do? And other brands most likely still do. Im not trying to say overloaded is the smart thing to do but 200 or 300 lbs over I don't see as a big deal when all brands don't report numbers the same. I think the original poster may be pushing it but I'm not saying it can't be done.
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