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Old 09-08-2019, 11:05 AM   #21
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Here are some approximate numbers to run a residential fridge while Boondocking. Your equipment will vary.

Refer will use around 130 amp hours a day, add more for lights, water pump, furnace etc.

Battery, best option is about 800 amp hours of storage, that’s 5 times what a standard trailer has.

Inverter should be 2000 watt pure sine wave

Solar, you will need about 960 watts, remember, you only get good solar numbers about 4 hours a day.

You might get by with a cloudy day here or there but without extended sun you need to run the generator.

Bottom line, residential refrigerators are not made for Boondocking.
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Old 09-08-2019, 11:13 AM   #22
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One of the best investments is a voltmeter
They can be purchased for less than $15
When the “Converter” is working properly, the charging voltage will be above 12 volts when it is charging the battery.
A fully charged 12 volt battery when disconnected (I always disconnect the negative side )then if you remove the positive side there will be no spark should be at 12 volts
Battery’s should always be left on trickle charge to prevent sulfating which shorts out the cells rendering the battery with a slow death!
If it is a non- sealed battery, you must add (distilled water) with a battery water filler to insure the proper level otherwise maintenance free is just that although they will eventually fail due to lack of water addition
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Old 09-08-2019, 12:08 PM   #23
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Here is 12 volt discharge chart. hopefully it attaches.

Click image for larger version

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Old 11-15-2019, 04:25 PM   #24
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I discovered when I just have the Jayco provided battery disconnect off there is still power to two units behind the panel where the disconnect is located. I think they have something to do with the wireless remote controls for the slides, awning and/or lighting.There are red and green constantly flashing LED's running and putting a slight drain on the batteries. I am also in process adding 200 watts of solar on the roof. This will be connected through a controller direct to the batteries. I just ordered a simple battery post mounted disconnect to make it easy to disconnect the negative/ground side of the battery. Has anyone else noticed the same partial disconnect situation?
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Old 11-15-2019, 05:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cenvalleysteel View Post
I discovered when I just have the Jayco provided battery disconnect off there is still power to two units behind the panel where the disconnect is located. I think they have something to do with the wireless remote controls for the slides, awning and/or lighting.There are red and green constantly flashing LED's running and putting a slight drain on the batteries. I am also in process adding 200 watts of solar on the roof. This will be connected through a controller direct to the batteries. I just ordered a simple battery post mounted disconnect to make it easy to disconnect the negative/ground side of the battery. Has anyone else noticed the same partial disconnect situation?
Someone posted maybe 2 years ago. That their wireless controller and auto leveler always had power when the disconnect was thrown. My understanding the level controller looses memory of disconnect hitch height when powered down.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:08 PM   #26
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That makes sense for an auto leveling equipped RV. Our HTX doesn't have or offer this feature. It may be a generic wiring system from the factory.
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